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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. Also, When I received my heated bed upgrade, I noticed some protruding screws from the heating plate. I shortened the screw heads a little, and they now are flush with the heating-plate, thus the glass plate is in better contact with the heating plate. I guess it is now a better situation for flatness and heating the glass plate.
  2. Hi, My glass plate is about the same. Did you try reversing it or rotate it, maybe it helps a bit ? I believe it's made from regular hardened/ tempered glass.
  3. I had a similar problem, the (wooden) bed was a little warped, so one (front) side was lower. Because of this, the tension of the spring at this lowest corner was minimal compared to the other corners. To solve this, I added 2 washers between the spring / Plexiglas printing bed, so the spring gets more compressed. Now there is more spring-tension pushing against this corner of the bed, so it levels upwards. Hope this solves your problem.
  4. I agree, More accurate filament diameter would be the best solution.
  5. Hmm...interesting..... But even if you could have a super accurate UM, you would still have the issue of the varying filament diameter ? Yes, the flow-rate can be adjusted on the Ulticontroller, but wouldn't it be nice to have some device that can register the filament diameter in real time, so the extruder process can be adjusted accordingly in advance..? Then that device could send a signal to the Ulticontroller, and adjust the flowrate, just like you can do manually. Only difference, the adjustment takes place before, instead of after an extrusion problem occurs. Problem is, UM would h
  6. Actually, sign me in for 10 x 8 and 2 x 5 mm pulleys. A full set pulleys : 10 x 8 and 2 x 5 mm !!
  7. Hello, If it is still possible, I also would like to pre-order a set of pulleys for the Ultimaker. I would like to order a full set : 8 x 8mmm and 2 x 5mm. I have Paypal, so please let me know when it's time to make the payment for the order. Thanks for your efforts !
  8. That's correct, if Cura thinks it's getting 2.89 mm, but in reality you have (measured) 2.93 (average), you should get more PLA mass per length /time, thus get over-extruding, in theory. Unless, your measuring tool is not accurate.... Imho, the best way to find out if this is causing under-extruding is, lower your PLA ( ! ) filament diameter in Cura. (I assume you've checked in Cura PLA, not ABS)
  9. By the way, i'm not a big fan of chinese made calipers ! Especially NOT, when measuring in 1/100 mm's. Cheers !
  10. You're absolutely right ! I confused the names extruder and feeder. The blue-taped end of tube should be at the FEEDER side. So it can ENTER SMOOTHLY into the bowden like entering a funnel.
  11. Assuming you have an accurate dial caliper, your filament diam. is quite high... ?! Indeed, according to your measurements, you should over-extrude. But, you don't, so something is wrong, just try with 2.85mm and see what happens. Did you ever changed some steps per E, or density values (should be 1300 ) ? If so, i should re-install Cura and change to 2.85mm filament diam. and see what happens... About the gap between your bowden - filament, from what i've seen on many photos this is normal. Assuming you don't have a faulty / cracked / torn bowden-tube, I don't believe this can cause a p
  12. Hi, In case you still have general under extrusion problems, you could try this, In Cura, lower filament diameter to approx. 2.85 mm. Imho, 2.89mm is on the high side of thickness (should be most accurate average thickness of filament) My experience with Ultimaker filament diameter, varies from min. 2.80 - 2.90 MAX. So, when you set it to to high, under-extrusion will occur because in reality less filament will extrude based on a too high filament diameter. Maybe it's also a good idea to reinstall Cura before you change this value...
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