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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. Thanks for all the suggestions! I should have two printers up and running soon again (cracked brass pipe trying to reduce leakage in UM1). I also need to find space for it in my apartment... Anyway it seems to be printing just fine. I have a somewhat dusty environment, so that new filament cleaner should work well. I haven't tried ABS yet, either. Any tips on ABS before I give that a try?
  2. Good suggestions. But Octoprint sounds like a great way to put my Pi back to use. Thanks!
  3. This a pretty strange issue, although I'd guess its easily solved. Despite being plugged in to my computer (exactly like my old UM1), Cura refuses to recognize that the UM2 is plugged in when I attempt to print. The only option it gives me is "Save to Toolpath." It will, however, let me install default firmware to the UM2, so it is communicating with it. I messed around with the "Communication Settings" in Cura, but no combination seemed to work (both on "Auto" now). Any ideas on this one?
  4. Hi all. I had the UM1 original for over a year and a half before deciding to add a UM2. What do I need to know about the UM2 that may be different from the UM1 to keep it working? Are there any essential printable (or non-printable) upgrades? Do I need to print at different temperatures? Are there particular bugs that I will likely run into that I should keep an eye out for? Thanks in advance!
  5. I think (unsurprisingly) Daid was right on. I am using a thread modeler plugin in Autodesk Inventor, and while many of the threads it generates have both rendered and printed perfectly, after I ran this one through "repair" in netfabb, it printed correctly the next attempt!
  6. With zero boxes checked, it doesn't make a difference... I really don't get it.
  7. I'm having a rather frustrating issue with Cura that I can't figure out. I designed a replacement bottle screw cap in Autodesk Inventor 2013. Simple enough, but when I try to print it, Cura fills in the screw-thread area. If you look at the picture, both the Cura rendered model, as well as the originally Inventor model clearly show the bottle cap center portion is clearly shown to be hollow. However, as you can tell from the "layer" view, Cura is filling in that space for some reason when it tries to print. Unchecking "solid infill top" or setting fill density to zero does not help. I have u
  8. I'm interested in selling my Ultimaker Original and Ulticontroller. I also have several spare parts that can be added on, including a spare stepper motor, bowden tube, nozzles, PEEK isolator, and several extruded spare parts. I can also include all the parts for a heated bed upgrade, which I purchased but never got around to assembling. The only known issue is the electronics fan makes some noise on start-up, but it goes away after a few minutes. Asking $1200 / £750 or best offer. Located in the U.S. but will ship elsewhere. Email with any questions or offers: nschwen@gmail.com
  9. I printed at 35 mm/s instead of 60 or so, and that made all the difference. Ukulele sounds great, too!
  10. Do you mean to manually ensure fan is at 100%, or is there some way I can ensure that in Cura? Also, I don't want to turn an already-18-hour-print into a 36 hour print. On the black ukulele base, you can see the overhang is only for the first inch or two. Would it work to just turn down flow rate percentage for that portion of the print manually, and then adjust to full speed for the less steep portions?
  11. I am getting really bad print quality issues on what I believe to be relatively modest overhangs. Typically I print at 0.1 mm layers, 50-70 mm/s print speed, 220 deg C, PLA on an UM1. I think I still have the default 5 seconds per layer overhang. The ukulele (which I have printed fully, successfully once and it is awesome ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:268090 ) is printed at 100% infill for strength. Even the frets, which barely overhang at all, print awfully. The wine stopper picture below is an extremely modest "overhang" on the outer edge, and it too has the same issues (w
  12. I just had an 18 hour print interrupted at 10 hours with a MAXTEMP error. My thermistor wiring is far (physically) from the fan wires, so I doubt it the two are related. The last time it happened, the yellow wire had obviously come loose from the thermistor. But this time, it appeared locked under the screw in the green housing. So I clipped the yellow wire shorter, and stripped a small portion and reinserted it. This is only the next day, but it has been printing OK for 13 hours now. You refer, above, to alternate wiring, but I am unclear what exactly you are referring to, or what my opti
  13. As a follow up on this clogging problem, which I had for almost a year, I seem to have finally cracked it, or at least made it better. I printed this filament cleaner http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:133353,%20but%20instead%20of%20using%20a%20sponge,%20I%20use%20tissue%20paper%20that%20I%20switch%20out%20whenever%20I%20switch%20filaments.%20I%20have%20had%20one%20partial%20clog%20in%20month%20of%20printing%20since%20the%20change,%20where%20previously%20it%20would%20be%20multiple%20clogs%20per%20week.%20Phew!
  14. So I've had my Ultimaker V1 for a month shy of a year. I have made some awesome things with it, but have also encountered and overcome MANY issues along the way. The one inexorable problem, however, has been nozzle clogging. It is of course extremely frustrating, you can see my previous topics on the subject if you want to know the details (I made filament filters, I am not printing too fast or at too high volume or temp, I use Ultimachie quality filament, etc., etc.) I ended up buying a bunch of 0.4 mm nozzles off Qu-BD (because 15 Euros for a brass nozzle is utterly ridiculous), and just rep
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