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bingobob

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  1. I never have good results with retraction. I prefer cleaning up the mess afterwards or it tends to under or over-extrude at critical points. Another source of your problem could be that with multiple needles, the layers have much longer to cool down between successive writes. Maybe you could try enclosing and heating the inside of the ultimaker to prevent layer temps dropping too much.
  2. That wouldn't help in this case because Cura isn't even generating any gcode. There doesn't seem to be a button for "Prepare" so I presume it does this in the window that is hanging.
  3. I personally think it's pretty suspicious that there is no trial version of the Netfabb software for ultimaker. No way I'd spend money on a product with such ambivalent reviews without being able to try it first. Reading this thread is the nail in the coffin, as far as I'm concerned. Cura is OK. The only thing I liked the look of in Netfabb was the support structure. The one in Cura is too inflexible and I just end up designing my own support structures into the model.
  4. Did you upgrade the firmware, though? Or are you using the firmware from 14.01 with 13.12? Looks like I am having the same issue as you.
  5. I went back to Cura 13.04 (on XP) and it works fine, even with the newer firmware. I guess I'll wait for Cura 14.02.
  6. I just upgraded to Cura 14.01. Did the firmware upgrade. I loaded my model, pressed print and a blank window with the title "Printing" comes up and that's it. Nothing happens. Am I missing something? In the meantime, I'm going back to Cura 13.04 - I hope it still works. Thanks. /edit: In the end I force the window to close and it tells me that Pythonw.exe was non-responsive.
  7. It looks like it doesn't like that overhang at all. And there's some major warping going on on your first layer. That raft is huge. By the time the print head has finished with it, it'll have changed temperatures several times if you're using a heated bed. Have you tried printing directly onto the kapton tape with ABS glue and no bed heating at all? What is your head speed? What results do you get if you use my settings? Can you post your printing parameters?
  8. Spend some time getting the bed level. First you need to know if your glass is flat. Just use a ruler or something to see if is or not. If not, then you'll never get a good print over a large area like that. Have a level bed is essential in getting a good first layer. If the bed is too low then the ABS will blob and the head will push it around. That looks like what has happened in your print.
  9. No, I just grab the sleeve that connects the motor to the screw and turn it with my fingers. Once it's adjusted for the first layer, you don't have to touch it after that. How flat is your glass? Have you put a straight edge on it? The first bit I used was completely bent in every direction. I went and bought some 4mm stuff that was perfectly flat.
  10. What does your very first layer look like? It looks like it might be starting to print too far above the bed. If the first layer isn't good then the rest will fail. I always print a double skirt around the object and while it's printing that I manually turn the Z-axis so that the first layer is being pressed solidly into the bed. I raise the bed too far and it stops extruding (no space to extrude) then lower is slightly so that the line it is printing is nice and flat, not like a bead. I don't understand why yours is blobbing like that. Are you using some odd ABS? Looks fluorescent in your photos. Maybe the dye is causing different behaviour.
  11. Can you take a photo of the problem closer up? Difficult to make anything out in that photo.
  12. If it was a bed levelling problem, I would only expect the first layers to be bad. It does look like it's overextruding. Are you using retraction?
  13. Are you using cooling? If so, try not cooling. I get poor layer adhesion if I cool too quickly - or at all. You could also try printing at a higher temperature, with a slower head speed. Maybe increase the amount that is extruded by lowering the value of the filament diameter.
  14. Good to know. Thanks. I much prefer the mechanical properties of ABS to PLA. I find that the layers bond better, too. Plus you can finish the surface reasonably nicely, depending on the part you want. I have also found that for long flat parts like the one you describe you can print directly onto the glass with the ABS goo. It doesn't stick as well as on Kapton, but you get a beautiful mirror finish to the bottom layer from the glass. I don't have any heat control on my PCB. I need to wire something up. At the moment it's all or nothing. What do you use to control the temp? Thanks.
  15. It's physically unplugged. Even with very low fan speeds, there is a large amount of warping and cracking between layers. I think by not cooling and printing relatively slowly the material remains at its glass transition temp longer and kind of self-anneals if that makes any sense. I think the cooling depends a lot of what kind of part you are printing. When I printed the thin-shelled ABS fan duct (see above) I used cooling and that printed just fine. I still haven't really got my head around the science of it. The only thing I can think of left to try is enclosing the print volume and heating it to keep the temp inside at 70°C+. Not sure how the motors and belts will like that, though.
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