viralata

This a model of the village where our fablab is hosted. More details here

This one is less experimental, and more classic: It's a model of the village where our fablab is located. The name is St Cyr de Favières and it will host the meeting of all the St-Cyr villages of France. So every one of them will receive a small model of the village as a souvenir. I used Blender for modelling, and used pictures, map of the village and aerial view as a reference. The aim was not accuracy but that the village was recognizable. Therefore I had to balance between lack of time and printability to choose which details to models. I made two versions, one full that takes 25 hours to print (0.1mm), and a smaller one with only the central part (6hours to print in 0.2mm). As I have 22 of them to print, they will have the smaller one, printed in Colorfabbwoodfill that gives a nice not so plastic feeling.

Thanks for the comments. The old fashion sledgehammer is the way (but I made the hole too big, so it shouldn't be difficult to retrieve money.

My latest print: remixed piggy money box: More details on my post

Here is my last project. At the fablab, I was testing the Ciclop 3d scanner. So I started with an easy scan: a big object not shinny, a piggy money box. Scan turned out well (a lot of work with meshlab is required to get a nice mesh). Then I wanted to make my own remix of this scan, in Blender, I used a decimate modifier and the Tissue addon to get this shape: Hope you like it, and I guess my son will like it

Very nice, I love them to. How is made the earth in the pots ?

Thanks for your answers. They helped me to finaly find wher was the problem that now is settled. Was not easy though: I decided to test the lifting power of the feeder: The faulty feeder couldn't lift 3kg while the second one was lifting 4kg easily and started grinding at 5kg. So I started to look at the differences between the two, and while adjusting the "pressure" screw I realized that on the faulty one I could screw it much deeper than the other one. So I dismantled the injected plastic parts for both of them and saw that the middle part was cut into two by the screw that I must have screw too much one day. Now way to guess it as the part is fixed between the two other ones, the lack of stifness is not obvious either. I'm still testing but it seems I found back my reliable wonderfull Ultimaker that I was missing so much. And it forced me to check everything, replace some parts taht where getting old, so I guess I can trust it now for some time.

Hello everybody, I've been printing for 2 years with my UMO perfectly. I now think I can say I know my machine. Unclogged it several time, upgraded with heated bed, dual extrusion, so I know the basic troubbleshooting. For 3 months now I can't print anything correctly at 0.2mm and need to print under 40mm/s at 0.1 mm layer height (while I was used to print at 80mm/s) and don't manage to understand where does it come from. I have filament grinding always wasting my prints and never know if a one hour print will be succesfull (I was used to happily print 40hours print with no problems). If I print big flat objects, the first layer infill is like wavy (the underextrusion come and goes like waves ). If I help by just slightly pushing the filament I have no problem anymore. I checked the spring of the feeder. My guess is that a stack of slight problems (aging ultimaker) makes a big one. I checked: the bowden tube and teflon coupler hotend is new Peek isolator is new Here are the things I tried: As the problems started after printing a lot of things with Colorfabb XT, I thought maybe some XT remains in the hotend when switching to pla and partialy clogged it. So I changed the hotend (twice even). I read here that some people had ther teflon part damaged by the 250°C needed for XT. So I checked it and there is no friction. I checked the toothed filament pusher (sorry, can' remember the name) and realized it was much less sharp than the second extruder one (that doen't work so often) so inverted them, no change. The small injected weel that press the filament seems quite used, could it be that ? (it happened to me in the past that this wheel slide on the bearing and stay blocked) The injected plastic lever that press the wheel on the filament seems to not press anymore. Is it a known issue for old UMO ? If I press it by hand or with a small clamp I have less grinding but it will still happen after less than 30 mn. I tried several different filament (most of mines are colorfabb and as I bought a pack are one year old, always kept in a box, but no air tight storage). Even a knew one and always some grinding (I'd say less grinding with XT). By hand the filament comes out from the hotend (so if my temperature sensor is wrong, it is not completly dead), One other guess is that my bowden tube has a double curvature (from a travel in my car) that increase the friction. I'm waiting for a new one. I cant' see if I should change everything once for all (complete hot end, bowden...) or if there is a way to solve the problem. Any help appreciated.

This is not the latest print, no time to post everything, but one I like: Printed frame for broken mirror: Some explanations in french on the fablab site (with more pictures, that make the whole process undertandable I think): http://chantierlibre.org/2015/05/01/un-miroir-casse-7-x-plus-de-miroirs/

And here is a video that let better see the shape of the lamp, with some images of the whole process:

Printed a complete lamp with the same technic I used before for lamp shade (see more pictures in this topic). 28hours print in 0.2mm layers with colorfabb XT :

I finaly took some time to make a complete lamp out of the same technic. Just reusing an old broken lamp, printing the lamp in one part and plastering with white natural clay:

And here is my last procedural necklace modelled wit blender. One might not see on the picture but there are some variations in the pearls and each of them is unique. As my spool of bronze fill is over now, I think I will wait a bit before printing more jewelery things.

I left a black PLA part outside for a year, it got some discoloration and little change in shape, but nothing too bad. And here is may last print, once again a necklace, modelled in Blender with procedural texture and array modifier. This way, I can add as many pearls I want, every one is unique. Just a tip: better not use "print at once" to prevent the small oozing patches when the head jumps to the next pearl. They are quite annoying with bronzefill as they tend to be more polished than the rest.

My last print: an icospher collar for my wife. Printed with bronze fill. I didn't sand it because I wanted the printing lines to stay visible and give a more "handmade" style. I polished more the edges and less the faces. Modelled in blender (modeling was quite fast in fact: add an icosphère, add an array modifier with an empty to change the scale and a boolean modifier to make the holes):

Nice light saber ! My bronzefill print is losing rapidely its shinyness. It may be due to the cloth I use to protect it, but I wanted to know if others have the same issue. By the way, my latest print: letters randomly generated in Blender for my fablab:

Some test of mixing traditionnal drawing technic (pencil, sculpting stamps...) with 3D printing. This was during a workshop for microediting with a cooperativ of artists. All the 3D printing is done with procedural textures in Blender. The book should be finished within one or 2 months.

I did a video to explain the whole process, from modelling in blender (though it's not for beginners) to polishing

I really should try tumbler. As posted here another model with bronzefill

Bronzefill looks so nice I had to try with another architectural test. This filament just change the way you feell the printed part: heavy; shiny; even the sound is different. It really gives a precious and valuable aspect to prints: may I say that my wife told me that the building looks like something else, I let you guess what...

My first test with Bronzefill: I definitely love this filament. It doesn't look like bronze in fact, not as shiny as the picture may let think, but it is shiny, heavy and feels like ceramic, or crafted noble material. You won't believe it's printed. Prints quite well, doesn't stick that much at the beginning so better have two loops around your model to let it stick first. Except that, quite easy.

3D case I love this, you are just really crazy !!!! My two last acrhitectural prints more pictures on this post

Been away from the forum for long, but not from my printer. Printed a lot but here are my last architectural prints. Tests and tests again of what can be achieved, what are the real interesting ways to use 3Dprinting forarchitecture. Printed with colorfabb orange at 0.1mm layer and 50mm/s Speed