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  1. Thank you Geert, Materialise is around the corner. Maybe they have insight on the software side too. Kind regards, Willem
  2. Hi GR5, the purpose would be instruction rather than representation, we are a building contractor. And the long-term decoration of my desk of course...... Reading your explanation on retractions, a diagonal division of the mass of a brick is better indeed. But my impression is that even then the alternation of colors is to dense, and the machine would jam. Maybe when I fill the bricks completely.....speaking of Chevrons... If the filament is .4 mm, which surface do I need to cover at once for good result
  3. Hi there, I would need three colors indeed, one for the mass, and two for the enamel which is applied to only one face of the bric. GR5, thank you for the explanation, I already feared this would be the case. I do have the option "export" color....... but this relates to material, and not to paint. I could divide a brick, and apply a different material to the enamel. I wanted to avoid this, because it drains memory. In this case, which width do I give the enamel? I would like to give it the
  4. Hi there, I would like to print the scale model of a building we're constructing. It's a theater building, the "tower" would fit in an Ultimaker S 5 if Scaled to 1/50. There is something specific to it, the Brics are not planar, but placed in a "Chevron" Bric Pattern. Now modeling is easy, but then I still need to apply the colors... I Applied paint to the face of a solid in a Revit family object. I did not code the material, as in reality the Brics have the same material, the colo
  5. Hi stephaluche, I guess the person I bought my Explorer from ( my mom gave away mine) just chopped the axl with big Pincers, and then grinded the end a bit to get a flat surface. In the post from GR5 you can see a picture of how you can mount the printed wheel. It takes some skills + the right equipment....so check your network if necessary. Succes, and please post a picture of the result. Kind regards, Willem.
  6. Hi to all, I made the original file, based on measurements an 1,5 hour of work in Autocad. The export did seem to complex for printing, and therefore mr. Reedijk took my wireframe model, and remodelled it in Vectorworks. I will try to get it, So GR5 can share it with everyone. How to replace the wheel mechanically, this is the explanation in Dutch, I will post a picture later, that might be easier than translating. Kind regards, Willem " Je moet wel zelf de blinde kop van de as slijpen, een gat boren in de kop van de as, en een binnendraad trekken. Hierin kan je dan een zeskantboutje
  7. Dag Bert_N, Harold Reedijk heeft de wielen geprint. Je moet wel zelf de blinde kop van de as slijpen, een gat boren in de kop van de as, en een binnendraad trekken. Hierin kan je dan een zeskantboutje M3 draaien en met een miniscuul rondelletje (sluitring) het wiel vast zetten. Ik heb wat kopervet op de as gedaan, me dunkt is dit goed voor de komende 30 jaar. Merk op dat de wielen relatief zwaar zijn, omdat de geometrie te moeilijk was om als een dunwandig element te plotten. Als je er zes nodig hebt zou ik dit alsnog onderzoeken. Rollin Rollin Rollin.....post zeker een foto v
  8. To 12 much; thank you for the comprehensive reply. To Hreedijk; I'll send you the file. Kind regards, Willem
  9. I do live in Belgium. Scrapping another Explorer might be a pragmatic solution. However, as most of these old timers have worn out wheels, I would prefer a set of printed new ones. I do not know whether it is economically realistic. One wheel has 10 cm diameter, and weighs aprox. 52 gram. -What is the direct cost of printing one wheel? -How much time do you spent on processing the print file? I guess if this works out, you'll easily sell tens of sets online, as there are many vintage fans out there.
  10. Who can print 6 Fisher-price-explorer-wheels for me? I can send the original by post, or make it a 3D solid in .DWG format. Kind regards, Willem
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