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  1. I know it is an old thread, actually i did it few month ago, but forgot to upload a photo. My simple solution for mounting the motors. using 4 hexagonal spacers found on dx.com or local hardware store. (couldn't print motor mounting part since my short belt was torn)
  2. While my printer is printing I have too much time to think , and lately it is printing all the time :-P . Did anybody tried to connect the 3D printer to a Pantograph? (for anyone who doesn't know what it is, it is a simple set of arms that allows you to scale up or down 2D movement). Since the biggest "price" of the system is the drive system, if we leave the X-Y build area the same, and just move the Z platform out, we can get a GIANT, build platform... I guess the accuracy will be less, but still it can be a very nice try...
  3. So using something like this: http://www.happyangler.com/en/accessories/small-accessories/g-t-r-60-cm-7x7-surflon-micro-supreme-wire-leader/p/759555/ just removing the two ends, and using a cable tie between them, will be easy to assemble, cheap & accurate (and probably more durable).
  4. The problem is not with the belts, the problem lies in the pulleys: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1611-fixing-pulley-innacuracy/ As you can see there are many complains about it.
  5. Great link! this is the same idea now it is hard to assemble because he is not using any parts to allow easy assembly, but if we use some printed parts like the plastic part that i showed, it will help with the wrapping & we need just a simple part to connect the ends , I think I'll try it since the accuracy of the pulley is not high, and using this system will greatly improve the accuracy. Nice to know somebody already tried it
  6. Hi All, again with some crazy idea, in my line of work, we are using a drive system that uses friction to move many shafts over large distance. The idea is simple, taking the two 8mm shafts, wrapping few wraps of cable (in our systems it is steel cable) then going to the second shaft, wrapping few wraps of cable and then connecting them in the middle with a tensioner. the only thing that is needed to adopt the system is just to find the correct material (steel cable wire plastic nylon what ever) to use. then we get cheaper system with less parts & much more accuracy. I'm attaching some photos System with plastic cable arrange just few wraps around the shaft. waiting to hear what you think.
  7. http://arduino.cc/en/reference/servo the board has servo control capability.
  8. Well I think it would be nice, but difficult to implement and will require lots of time to play with :-), but using a servo motor would be easy to use, a motor like http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9440__BMS_660DMG_HS_Super_Strong_Digital_Servo_MG_14_2kg_17sec_52g.html All we need is a small board to control it and to change the firmware to support it.
  9. Hi guys, nice work you've done here, please have a look at my idea here: (regarding direct extruder) http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3199-crazy-idea-about-feeder/ thanks
  10. Thanks for the info it was interesting to see his try at this, but his design has many flaws... my idea is not using a motor at all! just using magnets today we are using circular motion (motor) to get linear motion (filament), I would like to stay at the linear motion without using the motor and the gears (fyi a solenoid weights around 25gr which is MUCH less than the motor & gear).
  11. Hi Guys, I have an Idea I would like to hear your comments . We all know that having the feeder next to the extruder is the best design regarding the clogging and jammed extruders... BUT the problem is the size and weight,,, so I have an Idea to make is VERY SMALL & VERY LIGHT. How? well using a solenoid! i'm an ENG in a factory that we are using many kinds of feeder system to our machines, one type of a feeder system is Pneumatic like this one: You can see in the video that there are few steps for each cycle: Hold the strip Advance fix distance Hold the end of the strip (so it wont come back) Release the first gripper Move back and again... Now I think we can make something similar to this to advance lets say 1mm every time, and the using pulses we can control the speed of feeding per second. it would be possible to use solenoid with a brass collet of 3mm (Like this - http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k418/scdscd8/cute/04/0402/04020115/04020115cute_w4_a.jpg) that would once the solenoid is moving forward it would mechanically lock on the filament and move it forward, once going back (with a spring) it would release the grip. What do you think? is it possible?
  12. HI Lars86, could you please share with us the drawings of the metal parts (heatsink & stainless steel tube)? Thanks in advance,
  13. I will try as soon as I get the direct drive mod, since I managed to tear one short belt :( Just excuse my ignorance in 3d printing... what is the benefit of using Retraction?
  14. Ok, So I promised to update, so it took some time for the items to arrive, but now that I finished making the hotend, I must say it is working GREAT!, I'm uploading a video & a photo, that shows the hotend, I'm pushing the filament with my hand with very little force, and the top side of the hotend is cold... no modification is needed for the ultimaker, not even to recalibrate the platform, total assemble time is about 5 min so bye bye plastic parts!!
  15. Just wanted to know if anyone tried using a thermoelectric board to cool the hot end "cold area", these semiconductor boards can go down below 0C and are very easy to use, just plug the 12v supply. it is possible to use a round one - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Annulus-10-26mm-TES1-04930-Thermoelectric-Cooler-Peltier-Plate-Module-C0503-/290891565455?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43ba7d098f did anyone tried it ?
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