jenjaw

Right, I've tried a couple of prints using those settings which were better but still fluffy and not functional. I decided I'd try to dry out the filament yesterday, so now there is no hissing in the nozzle from moisture, but it's still producing sub-par prints: It just doesn't seem to bond very well layer to layer and the outer shell seems to be made out of diagonal lines rather than a solid piece. Any idea's on why this is happening still or how to fix it?? Thanks

Thanks for the advice, I'll give those settings a go and see how that works. They don't need to be perfect looking prints but it would be nice if it printed some functional parts!

Hi, I've been using the Taulman 645 nylon for a few weeks now and I am have 2 major issues with it. Firstly, it keeps jamming in the nozzle. meaning after every few prints one will fail and I have to spend time sorting it, which isn't great on a time limit. Has anyone else had this problem or any idea what's causing it? Secondly, the print quality is very bad, I've tried printing between 250 and 260 degrees with no improvement and changed the speed to faster and slower, but it still has a poor structure and is crumbling badly like in the image below. (I have to print on fabric for the research I'm doing) Has anyone got any tips on how to improve the print quality? I've heard about drying out the filament but not sure how to do this quickly/safely? Thanks!

Thanks for the input guys! I've done a couple of prints that seem to have gone ok, but I think the nozzle is still too loose, the block has spun around and loosened itself when printing and some of the filament looks as though its coming out the top which worries me a lot. Any advice?

Right, this nozzle is becoming my nemesis now, so I could do with a little bit of advice before I start printing again. Basically I had a jamming issue, and I managed to break the PEEK and brass tube, then when putting that back together after I got the new parts the nozzle sheared and got stuck in the aluminium block. Now I have replaced all of the broken parts I can finally put it back together! As I'm putting it together now, the whole hot end part seems a little too easy to unscrew. The Brass tube is firmly in the PEEK and is not going anywhere but the Aluminium block and nozzle can be unscrewed pretty easily, which was quite noticeable when tightening the wire parts in (I'm not that technical...). It seems kind of tightened together now, I took some pictures to see what you guys thought and if there is anything glaringly wrong before I start printing. I can't really afford to break it again! Thanks!

Hi, I'm doing some tests that have meant I needed to add a 2mm piece of perspex over the printer bed, so I need to re calibrate the origin of the z-axis on the Ultimaker. I have read about changing this in the G-code since the set origin feature has been removed, but as this is a more permanent change I was hoping for a different/more permanent solution. Wondering if anyone has managed to permanently change the home origin of the z-axis and any advice on how to do so? Thanks!

Hi, I have been having issues with the hot end parts of the Ultimaker with parts shearing off when dismantling the hot end to clean out a blockage. Initially the problem was the PEEK insulator and the brass tube, of which we now have replacement parts, however the nozzle has now sheared off inside the aluminium block. This means we now require a new nozzle and aluminium block as removing the sheared parts of the nozzle from the block would damage the screw thread. However last time we ordered from Ultimaker it took a while and I am on quite a tight time constraint, does anyone know of places in the UK where I could get the replacement parts from? Thanks!! Jenny

Thanks for the help, that link is great, I'm terrible with the search on this forum it never seem to find these things! I don't have a heated bed but I have has some good prints without using the 3M Blue tape and adding a raft in Cura, I think the main thing is getting the nozzle close enough to the printer bed to get it to stick without damaging the bed and nozzle.

Hello, I just started using the Ultimaker, I'm using it through my university for research purposes so it was bought as an assembled kit to save time. I've been printing successfully with ABS at 250 degrees for the last week, however during a print today the ultimaker stopped extruding so I tried feeding the filament through manually, but that didn't work. I checked other posts on here about clogged nozzles so I took it apart and removed the clogged up ABS until it was actually feeding through the nozzle (success!). Then, as I was reassembling it, I was tightening the nozzle to the PEEK insulator, and I may have over tightened it as the brass screw attaching the nozzle to the insulator seared leaving the screw thread partically stuck inside the insulator and the nozzle stuck to the aluminium heating element. Clearly, I was annoyed at myself, and that's a lesson learned about over tightening (though I swear it wasn't that tight), anyway I was wondering if: A) Has anyone else has issues with ABS getting stuck in the extruder nozzle, & B ) what could be the possible cause of this e.g. flow rate/temperature? Thank you!!