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kazzaqov

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  1. gr5, I can print other objects fine and everything seems to be calibrated. I think this model has too thin walls. Maybe something wrongs with the fan, but I dont think its that critical. It is blowing. Reducing its speed usually helps to get rid of under extrusion.
  2. Thanks for reply, guys. I am printing at 0.2, and first layer is 0.3. The sound that extruder makes during first layer, that what bothers me most. I am afraid filament might slip off the extruder.
  3. Hello guys, At 100mm/s the infill is horrible and ruins the print. Is there any way to fix this? Temperature is 220 degrees, PLA. I had hoped Ultimaker can print fine at 100mm/s
  4. Hello everyone, I've been leveling my bed forever, got tons of advices here (thanks for them) but I still think the problem is somewhere in the hardware. I tried 2 different beds, and I just get holes somewhere in the middle (this cant be calibrated by adjusting screws) of the bed. I tried both kapton and blue tape, same problem. Can you please advice me on what might be the cause? I'm sick of getting bad first levels (extruder always makes clicking sound because of uneven extruding)
  5. Ok so I've figured out how to assemble it properly, now everything works fine.
  6. Thanks for correcting me. Not an expert in hardware. Well the thermocouple reads not only 40 degrees, it reads everything from room temperature till 220 or more. But It reads it wrongs, it heats too slow and I'm afraid when it reached 220 degrees (when I was preheating PLA), the real temperature was much higher, thats why the printer turned off. Unfortunately I cant get anything from UM because I'm from Russia. The thermocouple looked like this even before the issue, I've had a kapton tape around the head, I've detached it to make a photo. So I guess the kapton was the thing that connected thermocouple to what it should connect. Everything on the amp board looks fine. So, any suggestions on how to reconnect it? I still believe it reads wrong temperature because I connected it wrong.
  7. Hello everyone, after another jam I've reassembled the head of the printer and looks like pressed thermocouple cable too much. Can you please advice me on how to re-connect it? If I connect it touching to heater, it creates shortage and sparks, so printer does not turn on. If I just make it touch the metal part of the head, I think the readings are wrong because it heats too slow and temperature measurments are definetely wrongs (I tried touching it at 40 degrees....well that was not 40 degrees) help much appreciated. Should I somehow put thermocouple cable into that golden plated circle (on the heater side)?
  8. Nick Foley, thank you so much! You are a lifesaver! I played with the heater wires at the nozzle end, and now everything works! (actually not sure what I did, but I guess wires were creating a short because they touched each other or something)
  9. Hello guys, I've got my printer jammed (wonder why, was printing as always) so I decided to detach the nozzle to clean it up. The problem was not in the nozzle, it was in that PEEK thing or something, because the filament didnt even reach the nozzle. So I decided to heat it and try to clean it with something (is that OK to heat with detatched nozzle?) and suddenly my printer turned off after reaching temperature around 180 degrees. Now its not turning off... Well, it TURNS on for less then a second, then shuts down, and it repeats this process over and over. I dont know what happened, but I guess its related to power supply. When I connected printer to pc, it turnes on normally, but now I get the maxtemp error. I tried reconnecting almost everything that was on board (not sure which cable is the power one). But my power supply's power button is shining even when I have it plugged off. Wonder if it is damaged? Any suggestions, please?
  10. Has anyone fine-printed the coral cuffs from thingiverse? (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:88849) I just cant get to print one. It comes out all blobbed and with lots of strings (no matter what retraction settings are) Can you please share your Cura settings?
  11. I would print it horizontally, but it makes no sence. Because the picture on a lithophane becomes barely visible. Ill try 0.8 wall thickness and 0.6 bottom/top now
  12. If I understood you correctly, the gcode looks like this:
  13. Guys, using Cura 13.04 fixed the stringing issue, but now weird holes appear. Need your advise again on what might have caused them. layer height 0,2 wall thickness 0.4 bottom/top thickness 0,4 fill 100% speed: 100mm/s temp: 220 These settings worked fine with Cura 13.06
  14. Thanks a lot, illuminarti! I tried different retraction settings, but I actually see no difference. But using Cura 13.04 helped. Now it has a normal travel route and I don't have any strings at all!
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