kazzaqov

gr5, I can print other objects fine and everything seems to be calibrated. I think this model has too thin walls. Maybe something wrongs with the fan, but I dont think its that critical. It is blowing. Reducing its speed usually helps to get rid of under extrusion.

Thanks for reply, guys. I am printing at 0.2, and first layer is 0.3. The sound that extruder makes during first layer, that what bothers me most. I am afraid filament might slip off the extruder.

Hello guys, At 100mm/s the infill is horrible and ruins the print. Is there any way to fix this? Temperature is 220 degrees, PLA. I had hoped Ultimaker can print fine at 100mm/s

Hello everyone, I've been leveling my bed forever, got tons of advices here (thanks for them) but I still think the problem is somewhere in the hardware. I tried 2 different beds, and I just get holes somewhere in the middle (this cant be calibrated by adjusting screws) of the bed. I tried both kapton and blue tape, same problem. Can you please advice me on what might be the cause? I'm sick of getting bad first levels (extruder always makes clicking sound because of uneven extruding)

Ok so I've figured out how to assemble it properly, now everything works fine.

Thanks for correcting me. Not an expert in hardware. Well the thermocouple reads not only 40 degrees, it reads everything from room temperature till 220 or more. But It reads it wrongs, it heats too slow and I'm afraid when it reached 220 degrees (when I was preheating PLA), the real temperature was much higher, thats why the printer turned off. Unfortunately I cant get anything from UM because I'm from Russia. The thermocouple looked like this even before the issue, I've had a kapton tape around the head, I've detached it to make a photo. So I guess the kapton was the thing that connected thermocouple to what it should connect. Everything on the amp board looks fine. So, any suggestions on how to reconnect it? I still believe it reads wrong temperature because I connected it wrong.

Hello everyone, after another jam I've reassembled the head of the printer and looks like pressed thermocouple cable too much. Can you please advice me on how to re-connect it? If I connect it touching to heater, it creates shortage and sparks, so printer does not turn on. If I just make it touch the metal part of the head, I think the readings are wrong because it heats too slow and temperature measurments are definetely wrongs (I tried touching it at 40 degrees....well that was not 40 degrees) help much appreciated. Should I somehow put thermocouple cable into that golden plated circle (on the heater side)?

Nick Foley, thank you so much! You are a lifesaver! I played with the heater wires at the nozzle end, and now everything works! (actually not sure what I did, but I guess wires were creating a short because they touched each other or something)

Hello guys, I've got my printer jammed (wonder why, was printing as always) so I decided to detach the nozzle to clean it up. The problem was not in the nozzle, it was in that PEEK thing or something, because the filament didnt even reach the nozzle. So I decided to heat it and try to clean it with something (is that OK to heat with detatched nozzle?) and suddenly my printer turned off after reaching temperature around 180 degrees. Now its not turning off... Well, it TURNS on for less then a second, then shuts down, and it repeats this process over and over. I dont know what happened, but I guess its related to power supply. When I connected printer to pc, it turnes on normally, but now I get the maxtemp error. I tried reconnecting almost everything that was on board (not sure which cable is the power one). But my power supply's power button is shining even when I have it plugged off. Wonder if it is damaged? Any suggestions, please?

Here is the photo.

Has anyone fine-printed the coral cuffs from thingiverse? (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:88849) I just cant get to print one. It comes out all blobbed and with lots of strings (no matter what retraction settings are) Can you please share your Cura settings?

I would print it horizontally, but it makes no sence. Because the picture on a lithophane becomes barely visible. Ill try 0.8 wall thickness and 0.6 bottom/top now

If I understood you correctly, the gcode looks like this:

Guys, using Cura 13.04 fixed the stringing issue, but now weird holes appear. Need your advise again on what might have caused them. layer height 0,2 wall thickness 0.4 bottom/top thickness 0,4 fill 100% speed: 100mm/s temp: 220 These settings worked fine with Cura 13.06

Thanks a lot, illuminarti! I tried different retraction settings, but I actually see no difference. But using Cura 13.04 helped. Now it has a normal travel route and I don't have any strings at all!

I tried printing both flat and upright. The one at the photo was printed upright, so its a lot of layers. Printing flat makes quality much worse. I am using the following retraction settings: speed 70mm/s; distance 9mm Thank you, I will try slicing in 13.04

Head moves only within the model. But the model is an engraved image ( a lithophane), so it leaves strings on edges of the engraving.

I am printing thin (2.5mm) and tall (10 cm) object, but with 100% infill. Did previous Cura's engine also had this issue? Or trying to use older version (which one?) could help?

Hello everyone, I have a following problem: retraction itself is fine, but when printer finishes the layer, it travels through whole model to start printing the next one (to another corner of the bed) with no retraction and this creates horrible strings. Anyone knows how to solve this? Maybe somehow set different travel route that will not affect the model?

Untightening screws on extruder seemed to fix the problem after all. The topic can be deleted I guess.

Hello everyone. I have a modified extruder, not exactly sure what model is it, but looks similar to Airtripper's Bowden extruder (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35404) So recently a problem appeared: extruder is making knock-like sound when printing. The one you would expect like if the speed is too fast, but the temperature is not high enough. When printing the first layers, good bed leveling might help, but to fix the extruder sound I need to lower the bed too much, so that the first layer would not stick at some places. And if I print with that sound, the nozzle often will jam and the print will fail. But the problem is, that this sound appears not only at the first layers, it continues to knock during whole print. I had no such problem with the extruder before, even when printing first layers too close to the bed. Tightening the screw on the extruder makes knocking faster. Untightening leads to underextrusion or filament slipping off the extruder. Tried different speeds and temperatures. Here is a video: Any ideas how to fix the extruder? Thanks in advance.

Thank you, I will try adjusting z-axis for the first layer during print. I think the glass is flat, but I can't level it perfectly. When printing in some places its higher and lower in the others. If the bed is too low, plastic won't touch it in some places, and if the bed is too high the extruder will jam after printing in some areas.

How do you manually turn the z-axis during print? By screwing that thing? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11033 Does it make sense to do it during the print?

Sure, sorry for the bad photo. The photo shows only printed Brim, I suggest when it started to print the model itself - print failed. I used retraction. Speed: 70mm/s and Distance:4.5mm By the way, have you tried Cura's fast print ABS profiles? And what is your heated bed temperature? I try keeping it around 100-110 for the brim layers, and then turn it off.