irongland

Looks like it's working fairly well! here was my general setup 1. cold glass with gluestick (I don't have a heated bed on my UM1). Some gluesticks work better than others, these are the two that I have been using. 2. my approximate print settings were Brim 15 (very helpful!), 238 deg c (maybe a little colder even), and 50mm/s and I did fairly thick layers at 0.2mm. Your print though looks great!

Bridge behaves much nicer than 618 in my experience (no heated bed, I'm on an original). for bridge I have found the correct glue stick works good straight on cold glass. If you want to print 618 without a heated bed though I can recommend using the same stuff as seen in http://www.tridimake.com/2013/04/3D-printing-with-cheap-trimmer-line.html It leaves a poor bottom surface but it will help keep the print stuck. Also give a shot at drying the filament; as I understand it, much of the shrinking/warping is due to water content loss as it prints. In the end I will probably not purchase 618 over bridge since it's soo much easier to print bridge on an unheated bed. Having said that I have yet to test the mechanical properties of 618 vs bridge. hope my two cents helps!

I keep my waste materials separate thinking that one day I might try melting a bunch of the PLA and use it to fill in a print so you have a much more solid feeling object (using the discarded prints to boot!). Haven't read anything about a process like this tough. If you are interested in recycling your prints check out filabot (http://www.filabot.com/), they claim that their filabot can produce filament for your printer, and they sell a grinder to grind failed prints for use for said filastruder thing. Honestly it looks pretty cool.

I would like to just point out for some one VERY new to cad like programs, tinkercad is possibly the easiest to grasp. It's not the fastest, but it is versitle and understandable which is why I always start out kids (junior high students) on it and then move to other more complex software. Either way every one should sample a couple of different flavors of software and see what suits them best. Good luck.

I love tinkercad for simple stl edits. Meshmixer is another option with 3d printer support. Blender (as already mentioned) along with many other surface modeling programs like 3dsmax work just fine for edits provided you know how to use them. That being said I personally recommend tinkercad to pretty much anyone at the drop of a dime.

Hey Ian I really like your filament guiding system hanging off of your feeder, the double bearings looks nice! I might try something similar for my UM1. How is the pla(or is it abs) spring/mesh working out?

What model of bike is that?.... just wondering....

haha I love your wooden version carmamir, did you base the mount on another previous design or did you model that from scratch? I just got my hot end so I'm looking for a mount that I could modify a bit.

I'm in the US and would like a set, lets see how many others are interested.

Ha! I found the post, it was in the "post your latest print" topic. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/467-post-your-latest-print/page-45 post#885 by ChrispCreator Also it sounds like he is planning on using them for real safety glasses! Either way I wonder if he would know anymore on this matter, maybe you can send him a pm? Also I just saw your glasses on youmagine...... man I'm slow on the uptake! I'm already playing around with your files thanks!

WOW.... I'm supper impressed. I love your technique for creating the spline geometry. Do your glasses have plastic or glass lenses? and what printer have you ordered? I'm kinda curious because if you could print this in abs you could also help mold/glue in the lenses in with acetone. Also for future replacement purposes you could clean off the glass via acetone again. I don't know if I would chance plastic lenses with acetone though. I also know I saw a post where on these forums where some one printed out a one piece pair of glasses, I think it was a prototype though opposed to a working model with lenses. I'm sure they know more about these matters, Ill try to find the post and get back to you. This could turn out to be a really cool use of a printer (especially since I too need new frames You could also post your work on youmagine.com, that way people could help contribute more easily.

Cool beans! thanks for the update

I have been helping out a neighbor with his rep 2 he uses in his classroom. It being in a classroom means it get's beaten up/thoroughly used. Either way one of the things I'm replacing is a strip of ceramic insulation surrounding it's heated aluminum block and that got me thinking, why is it needed in the first place. Well I now happen to be in possession of some extra ceramic insulation and was thinking about strapping some around my heated block on the ultimaker to see if it would help or hamper my printing but before I went ahead I wanted to hear what you guys think about it. I'm thinking it could help because of: 1. prevents inadvertent cooling of the heater block from air currents cause by the fan. 2. makes the actual heating more efficient as there is less loss of heat. This could possibly reduce the temperature gradient that runs up the connecting tube from the heater block. Reasons why this could adversely effect printing: 1. While it is insulation, it can still transfer heat. If there isn't enough space between the heater block and the aluminum mounting plate it could actually transfer more heat to areas of the hot end that shouldn't be hot. Either way I'm going to document it's effects with a couple of test prints of the ultimaker robot in the next couple of days to see if there is any difference.

Hey thanks guys! @nick, I think Ill try just that, if I can remove the heater cartridge from my current head. @mgg942: Good backup plan! I was hoping to use e3d's heaterblock so that way I can use their nozzles too (I tacked on some different size nozzles on my order) but if I can't remove the heater cartridge Ill have to reuse the ultimaker's block. This might turn out to be the way to go either way, especially if I can just thread in e3d's nozzels into the ultimaker heating block. In an ideal world I would like to be able to switch between my original ultimaker's hot end (it's been good to me) and the new E3d but that looks like a moot point since I would need to solder a resistor to my pcb. Thanks for the tips guys, it's given me some food for thought.

Hey thanks a lot George(I hope that's your name.....please correct me!) I didn't realize it was quite so easy! I'm used to working with thermistor and thermocouple tables from college so that shouldn't be a problem; I just didn't think it would be so easily implemented into the firmware, but I guess that makes good sense. Still worried about the heater cartridge, isn't the ultimaker's a 18V 40W? and I think the e3d is 12V 40W, can the board handle the extra amperage? or should I just try using an ultimaker cartridge to heat it?

Hey guys For Christmas my twin brother got me a e3d bowden hot end, once it arrives Ill give a good little review. I'm looking forwards to it as I have been recently looking to playing around with more materials than just nylon and pla! I have a couple of questions though relating to how it will work with an ultimaker, like can the heater cartrage that comes with the e3d be plugged into the ultimaker electronics? what about it's temperature probe? Either way Ill have to figure out these questions. Nick, did you say that the ubis is a PLA only hotend? or does it just work well for pla? Also how did you wire up the temperature probe? I thought the ultimaker used a thermocouple opposed to a thermistor?

Check out that link peteruithoven posted! There is a link to a gcode to x3g file written by whpthomas (one of the prominent makerbot community members) in there: https://github.com/whpthomas/GPX Sounds like that would be a solution for Anton

My go to for mashups is meshmixer http://www.meshmixer.com/ Its quite powerful once you get the hand of it

I think Joris has something he calls an ultimaker ++ or something like that at their fabshop, essentially using the same stuff as an ultimaker, but with longer rods. I would definitely ask them.

I need to sit down and read your last post more seriously, but it sounds like you have some really juicy and valuable tests and data for us in there. Also could you post a picture of your apparatus? I think there are more than a couple of us interested in your setup. I love that you are trying to innovate!

Personal experience; olive oil can smell/taste weird after it goes rancid..... Mineral oil is cool since it doesn't spoil (to my knowledge). Olive oil might be fine though, care to test?

I might be mislead, so correct me if I'm wrong. Do you want to save the way a printer would print this file? such as shell thickness and infill? Because that would be gcode. If you had an stl with all those features such as wall thickness ect actually inside your print, I think you would be hard-pressed to get it to slice and make something meaningful. You can always save the stl as robert mentioned, and then save the gcode next to it. It's the gcode that your printer uses to print. Or do you want something like a "saved game" function for cura so that way you can save the model, and it's slicing parameters all in one fell swoop? And then load it up with curra whenever you want to make a change to the way it prints? If so I think you would want something that can carry more info than an stl. One way to emulate this would be to save your gcode and stl. Then when you start up cura later you can just reload the stl you saved and then load the preferences from your previous gcode (file>load profile from gcode), If everything is in the same orientation it would result in the exact same slicing style and gcode. Hope it helps

Totally agree with Jonny Oh also I only use a single drop on the x and y axis rods (the ones with the pulleys attached). I don't use them on the linear bearings on the actual print head, I might have heard somewhere that that oils can jam up those linear bearings. Is there a maintenance page on the assembly wiki about this? If not maybe some of the more seasoned ultimaker users here could help put one together to guide us?

I looked into this too a while back, here in the states I couldn't find sewing machine oil, instead I found a sewer who used 3 in 1 oil (3-1). So far (3 months) it's been treating me well on my UM1. I think just about every hardware store over here carries the stuff. Also I would never use it on the z axis screw, I think that might require something special. Lets see what the more experienced minds around here will recommend.

I use this simple one on my extruder: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22851 You might have to make it a little taller using the scale tool when printing, try a couple sizes for the best fit. It might fit for the one on the print head, looks about the same size. See what you think