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garaha2012

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Everything posted by garaha2012

  1. Hi, everyone, congratulation for the great work yyh1002, very impressive! l do have a question: The hot end unit that moves up and down surely has some play in it otherwise it would not move up and down. When the hot end is in the down position how is the unit held in its precise x-y-location? On my UM3 the precision comes from the spring pressing the moving hot end unit down against a tapered seat in a metal part at the bottom of the head. Which part or which lay-out in your design ensures the x-y-position precisely? Or do I expect problems where there is none??
  2. Hi Experts, for my Mark 2 UM2 I want to use Cura 4.0. Are the current Mark2 resource files suitable? When I want to activate the Mark2 UM2 in Cura 4.0 I get the following error message and do not know how to correct my files: See enclosed screenshot. What can I do? Or stick with Cura 3.3.1 ? Thanks Gunther
  3. I have my "UMO 2+" with mark2, which is beside the wooden frame an UM2.. And then I only have one interface. Can Duet be used with Tinker mark2 firmware??
  4. Hi experts, I am thinking of building a larger printer using the Jennyprinter 4x340 as mechanical base. Build size would be 340 x 220mm. I intend to use Ultimaker 2 electronics and also upgrade to mark2 dual extrusion. My question is: Do I need a special version of the firmware or is it sufficient to adjust the size in Cura? Thanks Gunther
  5. Hi morfeushav, I understand that the lifting is through the wave spring on each side and the extruded "active" filament presses the relevant nozzle down. Once retract the nozzle goes up. That part is quite ingenious in its simplicity. I do not fully understand why this needs water cooling.
  6. Hi conny_g, I am having very similar problems. I thought it was down to movements of the head in x-direction. I keep printing new couplings to avoid the slight movement of the bottom magnets. But since I read your findings I think I have something similar in addition: First I calibrate properly using the well known xy scales for adjustment. Then I print something and the surprise offset is more the .5mm out in both directions. That is right from the start. Then I used some calibration model (four checkered square) in the center and calibrated from there.
  7. I just want to report that on Cura 3.2 on MacBook I do not have proper letters, see attached screenshot. I have this only on 3.2. Any suggestion what to do? Thank you.
  8. In my opinion the difference in support structure is due to the different characteristic between Cura 2.5 and Cura 3.1. It is not the difference in UM2 vs UM3.
  9. Thank you, maybe I should just try and filament loading will give me the first indication where I stand. Sometimes one reads too much instead of just trying ;-)
  10. Thank you very much, the factory reset stopped the extended z movement. Now I will go through the whole settings again including a renewal of the firmware. One other question: I have used the stepper of the UM Original feeder to drive the UM2 feeder for the second unit. It is this one. Also I believe the same the UMO uses for xyz axis movement. Can you tell me how many steps I need to adjust to and - more important - where do I change the steps per length?
  11. Good morning experts, I am stuck with my Mark 2 conversion and need some help. I had my Ultimaker original - very original, one of the very first - converted to be an UM2+. This "UMO2+" is a very good printer and gives a lot of joy. Next step was to convert to Mark 2. Everything went fine with one problem remaining. When I want to "adjust z" my print bed moves up and never stops. The print bed then crushes into the print head. I do not know how to make the print bed stop near the nozzle. Now, one suspicion I have: Loading the Tin
  12. I do not know how to reduce the z-stpper current on the UM original. Must be in the firmware. But I do not know how to open or view the uploaded firmware. Meanwhile I got a response from Ultimaker support and hope for a helpful outcome of the ongoing discussion.
  13. Printing sideways with a fan: I had put the printer on four blocks and directed a cold blower towards the electronics. I could print alright but gave up after 10min. I proved to myself that the overheating was the problem. With the original fan replaced I thought that the problem would be solved. But it only improved - meaning printing stops later. Presently I have to travel and need to investigate later. Maybe in the meantime Ultimaker can come up with a clever suggestion. Thanks for the 19 to 12 V converter hint, will check again that the fan works properly.
  14. Another update from my side: I have replaced the fan for the electronic board. Now the fault free print duration increased from 30 seconds to 30 minutes. Maybe after many more attempts there is a tendency this becomes worse (shorter) again. It is definitely an overheating problem of the z-axis controller. I have written to Ultimaker support many times. As my ticket is still not drawn to be answered my question to the experts: What could I do? Thanks anyway.
  15. Just an update on my problem with the funny z-axis. I had damaged the electronics fan and meanwhile replaced. The print duration without problems increased from 30sec to 30 min. It is an overheating z-axis controller. So what can I do? Someone suggested to reduce the maximum current of the z-stepper. But how do I do this on an Ultimaker original? I had written 7 times to the Ultimaker support but so far my ticket was not drawn yet. Any suggestion from the expert community? Thanks anyway.
  16. I may be the one to blame: I ripped the wire of the board cooling fan while converting the printer. So presently the board has no forced cooling. Initially I did not think of this but from other discussions it became clear that the controller overheats. So I think and hope I can solve this by replacing my fan. Otherwise the HBK kit is a model in completeness and well thought out.
  17. That gave me the hint to solving my problem: For testing I used an extra household fan to blow against the electronic board and that solved the problem. The z-axis controller must have overheated. Probably I damaged the board cooling fan when converting my Ultimaker. Have now ordered a new fan and will see then. Maybe I try to reduce the current when I find out how. Thanks for giving me the right clue.
  18. I think I am on to a solution: Cooling the electronic board with an extra fan cured the problem. So it seems to be the z-axis controller that overheats.
  19. Hi Solidprint, have you solved your issue? I have the very same thing and not solved at all. I have upgraded my Ultimaker with the official new heated bed upgrade. Everything goes well - only the z axes goes crazy. 10mm drop, sometime once, sometimes twice and then this terrible clicking noise and the rhythm in the screw. Now, after I read your statements I remember that my cooling fan came off and I run the main board without forced cooling. Could this be the cause? I would be grateful if you have a solution or if we find one combining our knowledge. Kind regards Gunther
  20. I am relieved to read I am not alone! I have installed the new heated bed upgrade on my dual extrusion Ultimaker original. Bed leveling I had the same thing, z axis dropped in about 10mm steps, I think after 25 seconds. Eventually I worked around that. But on printing I have the same thing: after about 30 seconds the the bed drops about 10mm and then it either drops further by the same amount or stps - but in any case the z axis/ z motor starts to give a ticking noise. When I touch the spindle I can feel attempted or true movement forth and back. It is so small it is not visible but clearl
  21. Dear new-bee + expert, I have an Ultimaker original and want to build a Kossel Mini. I want to use Cura on the Kossel. I do not know if I need to use a particular board in the Kossel to do this. Which electronic board have you used? Thanks Gunther
  22. Yes, I have no arduino, and in fact I miss more parts. Only I was unable to understand and see this. But now I was on to sales of Ultimaker and they are of course very helpful and parts are coming. Waiting is painful....Thanks guys!
  23. Thanks illuminarti, i just did that and now wait..
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