carmamir

Other models are printing fine, but for some reasons here I am having a huge issue with Cura. As you can see it creates lots of zits in corners and whole wall looks melted (though temps are fine and printed > 800h of other models with this profile). Tried changing fan settings, infill, flow, temps, bunch of settings, but none of them is working. Wall is 1.2mm (weirdly cura shows that line width is different between external/internal and infill (which is simply a line), extarnal and internal and thinner than the inside...), nozzle 0.4mm

I can send you the files that I have generated. I have no idea where the original board from Ultimaker is coming from (I have boards from both shops). My spare board was bricked the same way that original Ultimaker. I have of course generated firmware for UMO (generated second file for second board checking it extra carefully).

Why do you think that I have older board ???

Only sensor to 104GT, and baud rate to 115200. Nothing else. First unresponsive board was to 104GT and sensor for heated bed + 225000 baud rate (I thought that baud rate caused that I cannot upload firmware either through Cura or Arduino IDE). I mean Arduino Mega 2560 (pretty much regular arduino board). After disconnecting original Arduino Mega board I wasn't able to upload anything (timeout) Cura / Arduino IDE. Same happened with second board (original Arduino Mega 2560). I have uploaded other firmware (Cura/Arduino IDE) before this one and had no issues. After I've uploaded a firmware from this site for Ultimaker, Arduino Mega is dead, unresponsive and can't install any firmware (even just few lines of random code, just to clean it out)

Does any one using https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ ??? I have found it on Google. First firmware was done few days ago. After I've uploaded this firmware for Ultimaker basically I cannot connect with Ultimaker any more (however Arduino can read SN, but cannot upload anything, same with Cura (timeout)). I have decided to install another Arduino motherboard... As previously I have used 225000 as baud rate, I have select 115200 this time... Guess what... ANOTHER MOTHERBOARD DESTROYED !!! Timeout every time, doesn't mattery Cura/Arduino, laptop, Surface Pro, desktop, Windows 10, 7... I can read SN on Arduino but I cannot upload anything any more ! It looks like something is not right as 2 boards were destroyed without any obvious reason ! BEWARE ! Unless someone has other explanation ? (only firmware from this sites bricks Arduino board beyond any repair)

Unfortunately I haven't checked it and it turned out that not my workstation or Surface Pro 3 supports baud rate 250000. Now I can't upload any other firmware (cura/arduino). What should I do ?

Bulk.

£. I will post pictures Today/Tomorrow.

~1250 with filaments. Free delivery to Glasgow/Edinburgh included in price.

I have UM for sell. My UM has: - heated bed (firmware recognize and working without any issue, temps up to 110 with aluminium bottom bed + glass top bed) - E3D hotend (I still have old UM hotend) - Enclosed case (nice 4mm thick doors (you can open each side) - LCD with SD reader (original) PM me for more information. I'm based in Scotland but I can deliver it across UK (costs depends from location). Everyone know cost of UM without heated bed, enclosure and E3D. Selling as currently I'm working a lot and simple I have no time to print anything. I have also ABS/PLA filaments (black, red, white, silver and blue) for sell (kept with dehumidifiers, one is still sealed).

I have huge problem with E3D hotend, it's keep jamming, always I couldn't print anything bigger as ALWAYS it will jam. No matter what I'm printing, no matter what speed, it will jam. It's happening after 2-3hours of printing. Any idea ? Very annoying.

Thanks it is popular e3d hot end from thingiverse, modified just a little bit. I have E3D hot end designed from scratch but it is for my 3D printer (I will try to release both printers and parts in March/May, I'm aiming into complex semi-professional quality 3D printer, lots of new exciting features (software/hardware as I'm after uni and I know something about electronics, developing software etc. :>)). I tested it against ABS version of this hot end. If you will use easy E3D hotend for Ultimaker from Thingivers and you will use heating cartridge from Ultimaker it might be difficult to put there fan conduct without melting it down as it is very easy to put heating cartridge too close what will end with fan conduct melting down on small surface. I would need to prepare some easier model of fan conduct for CNC and prepare it from wood as it is working trurly brilliant (threaded holes for E3D (for tightening block which holds E3D to hot end) bolts after few times becoming loose, what means either I will print new ABS or I will use some glue. I'm taking E3D quite often for several reasons and ABS haven't lasted even 3 days ;( I'm thinking to design new holder for hotend and I will cut it off wood, but this time on 4th axis, as I will cut it together with fan conduct... To be honest I love wooden holder due to reliability and strength (when you compare to ABS).

Send some box spec. How does look noise on your box ? Is 5V+ separated from any possible noise in your device ? Difficult to say if that would affect UM electronic (which is simply just Arduino + rebuild motor shield), the best way is to check what is current needed by your box, then check noise on oscilloscope of your 5+ and GND. I haven't checked schematics for motor shield on UM but I guess there will be one 5V+ line, so no matter where you will connect, just make sure that current will be appropriate for +5V line, and make sure that you won't connect some noisy device as it can affect work of Arduino (I haven't check how well is designed separation on motor shield from UM, so I can't tell you more). Basically if your device has low noise and has low current then you can go ahead and connect to UM +5V line, just make sure that current won't be too big. If you need more specific help let me know.

Why don't you just use normal milling service ? Unless you like that burnt texture on wood. We have laser and mechanical cutting equipment and personally I prefer mechanical cutting over laser cutting.

Finally I put E3D into my Ultimaker. I printed hotend mount in PLA and it melted down after few prints. So I decided to give a try to prepare some more rigid and reliable mount Wooden hotend mount , I even add some special "burnt texture" so it would match UM case . I've cut this mount on CNC (on 3 axis as I were too laze to centre material on 4th axis) What do you think about it ? My main concern about ABS mount is that it has 105 degrees melting point. Heated bed I used can get up to 115-120 without an issue :/ (plus I have enclosed UM case) I were testing E3D and looks very interesting (I've tested it only with ABS) and I might use it on my primary 3D printers (at least hotend based on idea of E3D as I believe that there is a way to make better design, I just need to find a little time to design it and to cut it off). BTW How yours extruder motors temperature on UM while you're using heat bed and ABS ?? I having serious problems with overheating extruder motor (maybe current is too high, I haven't checked), so for now I just added some cooling fan on extruder motor and I hopefully it will help

I uploaded firmware with EPCOS 100k and 4.7k pullup. Unfortunately temp still is wrong (first I tried without pullup) and shows 155. I used marlinbuilder, and option extruder temp sensor 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup). Looks like Ultimaker still using default settings for AD595 instead of selected 100k (after I connect AD595 it will show correct temperature). Don't ask my why I don't want AD595. ***** Update Solved by removing IC component. Directly connected to Arduino it worked

It is extruder unit (too weak pressure on filament). No big deal. If any one wants to buy UM (from August) with heated bed (aluminium bed + glass on top) and heated chamber please PM. I'm living in UK. Selling as we do not need UM any more and with right price I will add new extruder unit from our printer (which will be available in December), as we have own printers and UM can go on market . Helped a lot to produce some pre-test parts (all parts in our printer comes from moulds not from 3D printer). With our extruder unit (which is designed from scratch) you will be printing lots of nice things on UM.

What can I say, I can't use UM for long time as I getting issues with infill between layers Some prints can be ok but most is destroyed in some time of print due to lack of infill (at all, looks like empty layer, when you check layer you can clearly see that there is no PLA extruded). Temp 229, speed 50mm/s, original PLA. Nozzle and head cleaned lots of times, same issue every time. On lower temp I getting more often those empty layers... (interesting that I have full layer empty or with problem..., next layer is fine) Cura.

After another break I start getting problems with some brown thing blocking nozzle (I tried to clean nozzle and hot end using high temperature flame) and just after that for some reason, teflon tube is sliding off from teflon insulator... Any one had problem with it ? I just had to print several prints for my own printer but of course UM stop working just before I start printing mount for hot end :(, but seems that if I won't be able to repair it I will be forced to try to cut it from wood/aluminium on CNC... I don't see a reason why it start sliding off.... Any one interested with buying Ultimaker (from August 2013) with heated bed and heated chamber (acrylic sheets on hinges) ? UM located in UK.

Hmmm weird, rods were coated with something (I have heated bed and heat chamber, I used some ABS juice before)...

I left UM for several days unused, I just turned few minutes ago, start print and suddenly I can hear sound and then X/Y start missing steps (like by huge M as both axis locked)... I can't move it by hand (unless I use a lot of force). I haven't done with it ANYTHING, it just happened after several days of non using... I can't see what is wrong, belts looks fine, looks like motors are just locked... Any help with it ?

Thanks for help. For now I just using hand to help it, there is no need to create new model of it for UM as I'm making own 3D printer (UM along with other printers is just bought to see what are the biggest issues)...

GR5 issue isn't just holes size.... Issue is that I can't print any shape accurately...

Well with new filament orange ABS 3mm it start grinding a lot (well on 1h print there were 8 layers without filament as extruder driver were grinding filament, if it fails 1 layer it will fail whole print) When you press it by hand it is working... I can't go further with pressure bolt.... Spring is compressed to 12.7mm

Cura is set to 15mm/s but actual first layer is printed with crazy speed of 80 or 90mm/s, on second layer it's slow down... Any idea why ? It isn't case with all sliced models... Only some of models has that problem...