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jonnybischof

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Everything posted by jonnybischof

  1. Ne, hast du vermutlich auf "privat" gesetzt. Wenn das Bild einmal geladen wurde, ist es im Cache und wird vermutlich auch dann angezeigt, wenn du dich ausloggst.
  2. I've used pointy setscrews (no clue how the correct term in english is...). They do bite into the shaft and leave a dot, but they will never ever slip. Provided you don't change your 3D printer gantry all the time, there shouldn't be a problem if the setscrew leaves its mark on the shaft...
  3. http://hackaday.com/2014/12/30/3d-printing-technique-friction-welding/ Zum Schweissen benötigst du bloss einen Dremel (o.ä.)
  4. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/forum/59-ultimaker-for-sale-section/ Schon hier gesucht? Es gibt immer wieder Mal Verkäufe, aber so richtig gefolgt bin ich denen nicht. Ihr könntet auch bei den deutschen Händlern nachfragen, manchmal haben die Occasionen oder Retouren rumliegen... Für mich würde ich ausschliesslich Neuware kaufen. Ein 3D Drucker ist doch eine recht komplexe Maschine - allfällige Mängel bei Gebrauchtware sieht man kaum auf den ersten Blick.
  5. Ich verwende Eisspray (Kälte 75 von Kontakt Chemie), wenn ich ungeduldig bin und die Teile trotz warmer PEI-Dauerdruckplatte ablösen will. Kühlt man die Teile ab, dann lösen sie sich meist (je grösser das Teil, desto besser) und man kann direkt den nächsten Druckauftrag starten, ohne die Temperatur der Plattform komplett runter- und wieder hochfahren zu müssen. Ich würde das allerdings nicht immer so machen. Könnte mir gut vorstellen, dass ein zu rasches Abkühlen bei bestimmten Filamenten zu Brüchen führt. Bei PLA hatte ich bisher keine Probleme.
  6. And leave my 27" gaming display? NEVER!! I don't, sorry :( Anybody playing Dragon Age: Inquisition multiplayer (on Origin, PC) ? Oh, and only a few weeks until Evolve is released!! :eek:
  7. Small update: I got my shipment and assembled the frame. The corner pieces are very strong - but not suitable for setting up accurate 90° angles. I've adapted my design and am now going to try using lasered steel plates for the corners. This solution will have quite an impact on the frame's weight, but should deliver the rigidity I demand. I've also ditched the Trespa bottom plate and will be using aluminum profiles in the bottom, too. That makes the frame another 24mm higher (without getting more build height), but the machine is already huge so it doesn't matter anymore I'm also making good progress on my material feeder design. Got my first prototype "working" (didn't print with it yet, but it grips the filament well and the quick-release works, too. Rest should be a piece of cake). More to show soon...
  8. Stupid mail didn't arrive on the 30th... Now I don't have the materials to continue working on the main parts. I've made some progress on the hotend mount and material feeder however, but not much to show off yet.
  9. Getting there... Now to get the firmware working on the Megatronics v3 The effector is quite wobbly. I'm really curious whether this unstable thing will ever produce good quality prints
  10. Use the gallery function for uploading pictures: --> Your username in the upper right corner --> My Gallery I don't like printing ABS. It stinks, it's difficult to print with and the results are mediocre because ABS warps much more than most other 3D-printing plastics.
  11. Here's the pictures I mentioned earlier: I also put together the parts of the z-stage which already exist: Works very nicely so far. But it's too early to celebrate. One more thing for today: This has been laying around for some time, but today I finally assembled one. I'll have to do some more tests, but it seems like it works just fine (of course it does, I made it ).
  12. It's normal for the stepper motors to reach temperatures up to 70°C. If they get hotter than that, you should be concerned. Have you oiled the linear shafts? The motors get hotter when the mechanical load on them is bigger (altough only slightly, because the motor drivers don't adjust the current automatically).
  13. Du hast ganz einfach zu starke Ueberhänge (overhangs). Du brauchst entweder Stützstrukturen (supports), oder du könntest das Teil in zwei Hälften zerschneiden, hochkant ausdrucken, und dann zusammenkleben. Je nach Material könnte das allerdings auch nicht so toll aussehen - insbesondere wenn das Teil lichtdurchlässig sein soll. /edit: Um das Teil zu splitten, einfach die Gesamthöhe in Cura anzeigen lassen (Teil anklicken, dann bei "Scale" nachschauen), und das Objekt um die Hälfte dieses Werts im Boden versenken: Im "Advanced" tab unter "Cut off object bottom" (Advanced settings müssen aktiviert sein..). Dann 2 Stück davon drucken. Ich würde 0.2mm Layer empfehlen, damit die Overhangs besser werden. Es hat immer noch einen minimalen Anteil an Overhangs, aber so müsste das Teil ohne Support druckbar sein.
  14. I also used 2-component glue (Araldite). I took the 5min "rapide" for the first one, but it took me too long and the glue was already hardening when I got to the second rod. So I ditched the rapide and used the "standard" version, which has around an hour curing time. Works perfectly well and (once it is dried, which takes 48 - 72 hours in this configuration!) makes a rock solid connection. For my first delta build, I'll use a 1.75mm Merlin hotend. 1.75mm filament is better suited for Delta printers because it poses a much smaller load on the effector (you also have to count in the bowden tube! 1.75mm bowden tubes are much more flexible than 3mm ones...). I didn't take an E3D hotend because the Merlin is cheaper, more lightweight and is supposed to work very well with PLA. And I just wanted to test the Merlin. And an open framed delta printer without heated bed or walls (heated chamber) isn't suited for anything but PLA anyways... I will however test the E3Dv6 on my Ultimaker Black Edition, which I'm also building these days. It will be used primarily with PLA, but also Colorfabb XT. I'll see how it goes...
  15. As promised, the next step is completed: Now I just have to hope I didn't get any glue where it doesn't belong...
  16. I am - but it will be completely open source and I want it to be of some use to other people. It is already a derivative of a proven product - so it needs to be "matured" and simplified, not made even more complicate than it's predecessor. I don't need much modularity, nor does it need to be easily modifiable - because it is good the way it is. I won't rest until that condition is fulfilled And, as I said, I'm probably going to sell some of these some time. /edit: Heated build platform is partially assembled (pictures are still on the cam, *d'ooh*), and I'm printing the parts for the gantry. I won't be able to do much more than that as long as the aluminum extrusion profiles are missing, because everything mounts to them. At least december 30th isn't that far away anymore
  17. I order my stuff from Misumi. Premium price - but they do not disappoint But you have to be a business customer, they don't accept private customers. I'm lucky enough to be able to order stuff via my workplace. I'm using E3D's embedded couplings: http://e3d-online.com/Mechanical/Bowden Very elegant solution. Once the prototypes are there, I'll probably try leaving the metal part away completely (integrating it into the printed part), so I can order any cheap coupling and just use it's "clamp" part (the inside thingy that bites into the bowden tube).
  18. Okay, now I get what you mean It is indeed possible to slide the brackets if necessary. But that would make the assembly too difficult. So I want to avoid any kind of adjustment wherever possible. There are already some parts that need careful adjusting (build plate levelling, z-limit switch, z-stage linear bearing alignment). We don't want to overpower the user by giving him 1000 screws to fiddle. In the end, he'll just mess everything up... If the construction is not simple enough - I will have to redesign it. By the way: The Zurich FabLab is closed over the whole holiday (w0000t??? :eek:), so I can't make the CNC milled parts in time. I'll be able to put most of the gantry together, though, so there will at least be some pictures and maybe some insight in how good the design looks in reality - compared to the paper design.
  19. Possible... I would still just make new brackets if I needed a different length - KISS I don't have any references for mechanical tolerances & quality. When you're able to buy stuff from Misumi, you have two major advantages: 1. You get the best quality there is 2. Lots of information in their catalogue, like "use these kinds of shafts with these bearings". Also, you can generate STEP files for the parts and their mechanical drawings are very well readable. So, I basicaly don't have to worry about these things anymore No go - the profiles are what makes up the rigidity of the machine. It is absolutely critical that they form a rock solid entitiy. I will measure the angles when I receive the parts (5 days left..). I suppose that "+-0.5mm" length tolerance refers mainly to "how well they dial their cutting machine". Meaning when they cut several parts of equal length, these parts can be +-0.5mm in respect to the specified length. But less than +-0.5mm difference between the parts. If that's true, then the error in my frame becomes even smaller.
  20. I did that in my first sketch. But then I realized it would become very difficult to get the gantry aligned when you have every single piece for itself. With these long brackets, the shaft spacing is defined and very accurate (this is a 5mm thick, lasered aluminum part!). On top of that, you just place the first two brackets flush on one side, getting them perfectly aligned. Then you place the other two brackeds flush onto the first two and have them perfectly aligned as well. The only thing that you still need to care about is to make sure that the aluminum extrusion profiles form perfect 90° angles. Yes, it means you need to calculate the spacing for your belts carefully. I'll probably have to re-order these parts for better belt tension, but the second batch should be just right for the belts I'm using. It's very easy to adapt these brackets for longer or shorter belts. I'll probably make different sizes anyways as soon as the "standard" size is finished. The first sketch here has a bad gantry sizing anyways - it can move further than necessary in the x and y directions. There is no use in being able to move the hotend beyond the edges of the build platform... (of course, a few millimeters more is good. But I have about 1-3cm surplus just for nothing. I did this because I had already ordered all the expensive precision shafts from Misumi and then redesigned the whole frame. Now the first prototype will be a bit off in dimensions, but it should work well. And it'll be easy to adjust the spacing once I can re-order a new set entirely. Oh and by the way, I "should" have taken into account all of the aluminum profiles' length tolerances (+-0.5 mm !) so that there won't be any problems with that. There will be a very small error introduced by that (the 90° angles will be slightly off), but that should be negligible.
  21. Working hard on the sketches... I added the frame's corner pieces I mentioned earlier. The Misumi part number is "SHBLBCB6". They cost a whopping 9 EUR per piece - But from what I've seen from Misumi so far, they'll be worth it. Also, they use up virtually no space at all - wall panels can simply be placed over them which makes things easier and nicer. Btw: Nominal load on these parts is 1000N. Not too bad... I've also been working on my new E3Dv6 mount. The new version is smaller, but still stronger and easier to print. First prototype will be printed some time this week. (My printer is at my workplace...). /edit: Done for today... Limit switches are now also integrated. In it's current (theoretical) state, the printer should be ready to print. I'll start printing the parts and assembling it in the next few days. Parts are due to arrive around new year, CNC-milling might introduce a little delay but only one part is needed to get the printer running.
  22. Most people (including me) are going for GT2 pulleys & belts. They're usually well made, and easier to integrate into a custom made project due to their metric measurements.
  23. Just bought a 300x200mm heated bed from reprap.me. I'll take a look at it and then probably adapt my Ultimaker Black edition to this size. I don't want it to be too big - my new frame isn't as compact as the UM original frame. And the thing should still be able to sit on a sideboard or small table (40cm depth).
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