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Everything posted by jonnybischof

  1. If your prints start fine, then underextrude after a few hours, it might be a problem with your feeder. Maybe it's chewing up the filament an loses grip as more and more material gets caught in the wheel? It could also be that the feeder stepper motor overheats after some hours of use, which leads to skipping steps. I've heard on several occasions that people had to mess with their motor current settings in order to get the printer working right. It could also just be bad filament. Black filament can be more difficult to print with than brighter colors (I guess the kind, or the amount of co
  2. The function is there (for me), you just have to hover the mouse over the area to the right on a notification and the "x" will appear
  3. Interesting. I thought it wouldn't absorb any water... Good to know, I didn't really take care storing my XT in a dry place. Will put a bowl of rice into the box from now...
  4. It's been some time since I've last printed XT. I wanted to preserve my hotend until I have my second printer ready - which has been pending for a long time now... The best theory I have is that the blobs happen during retraction. The hotend usually stops for a short time while retracting. XT is a very "gummy" and somewhat unstable filament when heated - compared to the very tame PLA that just softens up and flows. XT expands, so even during retraction the nozzle will still ooze. Now, the blobs may either be caused by the oozing, or because during the time the nozzle pauses, the material u
  5. It looks like underextrusion. Is this 2 shells, one sticking to the part, the other delaminated? Did you change your "infill overlap" setting in Cura (default is 15% which should be fine)? Underextrusion can be caused by either not having enough material flow because of calculation errors (Cura diameter not matching actual filament diameter), OR because of insufficient heating power put into the filament. Simply put - maybe you have to reduce the printing volume or increase printing temperature. 255°C should be high enough though. You could try decreasing your cooling fan speed, that will a
  6. 3D printer maintenance isn't rocket science. It helps if you have some general knowledge about machines. If you don't, you'll learn that in time. You will have to do maintenance, like lubricating and cleaning here and there. You also have to be prepared to fix one or another problem at some point. - But you don't have to do that alone like Sander already mentioned. You can get any spare part for Ultimaker printers that you might need. You also have access to the assembly instructions (on the support pages) which should help you fix most issues by yourself. Reading through these instructions
  7. What you have to know about "consumer grade" 3D printers, is that there is no such thing as a completely "trouble free" 3D printer in this market. I'd recommend (any) Ultimaker 3D printer because they are pretty well built, and they offer very good printing quality and speed. You have to be prepared to turn some screws in order to fix issues, and maybe replace one or another defective part. If you get an Ultimaker, this will not be much of a problem since you have access to a) the complete assembly instructions, drawings and so on b) this community which will help you with any problems you
  8. Does the UM2 feeder have a an adjustable tension spring for the filament drive gear? Maybe there's just not enough tension on your new machine so the filament slips instead of retracting? Usually, that would rather lead to under-extrusion, not "too much material" like in your case. As for temperature sensor inaccuracy: The UM2 uses platinum RTDs which are in general very accurate, even without calibration. Whether or not there are large differences in temp reading between different machines depends mostly on the circuitry that reads the sensor. Just had a quick look at the Ultimainboard 2 s
  9. How about the possibility to delete conversations? There's a spam message in my inbox (the one from samirabest that some others also received) that I'd like to get rid off...
  10. Usually there are no melting fuses used in nowadays electronics. Only self-resetting stuff such as PTC fuses. In 3D printer electronics, there are a few boards that have PTC fuses, but most of them don't and will simply blow out some component(s) when you create a short-circuit. Thanks for giving me something that I have to check on with my own electronics project
  11. If it says "genuine" on a chinese product, then run as far away from it as you can! This is the number one indicator that you're getting bullsh.. stuff / are in a fishy shop. Of course there are great chinese products (I proudly own a Huawei P8 smartphone), but in this case I'd say you bought a hunk of junk
  12. It's true XT is difficult to handle. Having a specialized printer plate (I have a PEI plate) helps a lot. And XT is one of these filaments that should actually not be printed too slowly because when the nozzle moves too slowly, the filament underneath will melt (and get stringy) and warp. I use 40mm/s as a minimum speed with XT. I also print XT a lot hotter than recommended, at 255°C (Note that my UMO probably underestimates temperature by quite a bit) which is indeed very demanding on the UMO hotend. I have actually stopped printing XT for now because of that, and will switch to an E3D ful
  13. UM filament is not actual "brand" filament. Afaik, UM doesn't manufacture their own filament, but buy the stuff from somewhere. In my experience, UM filament was among the worst quality stuff that I tried. But I have to admit I went for the good brands very soon - it's worth it. My UMO printer is very reliable - except for problems with filaments such as the string suddenly snapping off the spool, or even breaking completely just out of nothing. I never had any of these problems again since I started using only Diamond Age & Faberdashery PLA. Personally, I'm not a fan of Colorfabb's PLA
  14. Another thought on the model: Consider making the relief text only one or two layers thick (for example: Make the letters protrude only 0.2mm). It might look better. I'd definitely switch to a very small nozzle, like neotko mentioned. www.3dsolex.com
  15. Cheap and high quality doesn't add up. Either you go cheap and get cheap stuff, or you go high quality and have to pay for it... I use Faberdashery and Diamond Age PLA. Both top-notch quality and both cost me pretty much the same (including shipping around the world and taxes). Colorfabb XT is a very nice alternative to ABS. Afaik, ABS is cheaper than a good quality PLA. But I don't use any ABS plastics anymore because they stink, release toxic fumes during printing and they generally produce worse prints than PLA or XT.
  16. I'd also just say "go maximum travel speed" and then try out which is the maximum printing speed (for a given layer height) that still gives you good results. The newer Cura versions show you the volumetric "print speed" in mm3 per second, which is a very good thing. If you change layer height, you should be able to adjust printing speed until you get the same volumetric printing speed and get "the same" printing quality. Note that this is where the printing speed <-> travel speed margin may come into play.
  17. Don't forget that your travel speed should be higher than printing speed, or you'll get a lot of stringing. The faster you print, the smaller the print <-> travel margin becomes and the worse print quality you get. I have my travel speed set to 150mm/s (UMO). If I print at 30mm/s, then the margin is so big that I get pretty much no stringing / oozing at all.
  18. I've printed stuff at 100mm/s which came out fine. The important thing is that you can't look at "printing speed" by just looking at the x-y speed. You need to consider the plastic-throughput in the nozzle. You can probably not print at 100mm/s with a 0.2mm layer thickness. But for 0.06mm layers, PLA usually works fine.
  19. Hi @neotko You are right that g6 is the tolerance grade you want, IF you also buy Misumi bushings (#SHBR). It depends on the type of bushing. Misumi ones are made for "g6 or f8" shafts (it says so on the pdf page). I'm sure you can get other bushings that are made for h6 or other shafts. I wouldn't recommend the black LTBC coated shafts together with bronze bushings, because the coating quickly wears off. I'd take the hardened steel shafts (not stainless) with hard chrome plating. Those are really awesome. Misumi part number: PSFJ. Not sure what the LTBC is really suitable for. Maybe linear
  20. I just got an Email from info*at*ultimaker.com with a notification about new "activities". There's a link that says "Manage notifications in my account settings" which points to a somewhat strange URL: http://ultimaker2.diamant.oberon.nl/login Of course I have to enter my login data there (which I didn't do!). Is this E-Mail a fraud? ------------ Another thing: The Ultimaker site currently takes 20 - 30 seconds to load, because it keeps waiting for "use.typekit.net". :(
  21. About PWM fan control: The ideal thing would be an actual PWM control built into the fan. That's the ones with 4 wires, mostly used in computer CPU coolers. I didn't find any 40x40x15 mm fans with PWM control. Only some 40x40x20mm which are very powerful, but also weigh a bit more than the thinner ones. And they only come in 12V versions + PWM control... -> Sanyo Denki SAN ACE 9GA0412P6F001. www.mouser.com has it. There is a more powerful (higher rpm) version, but I doubt that would make much sense. You could easily power them using a 24V to 12V DC/DC converter like the Mean Well PSD-3
  22. If you print Colorfabb XT (clear - I heard the colored XT is a bit weaker than clear because of the color pigments) with 2 shells and 100% infill, and also print hot and with minimal cooling, then you get VERY STRONG parts. XT is more flexible than PLA, but if your part is thick enough it will be very rigid. I made some printheads that you can hit with a hammer and they'll still give you a hard time breaking them.
  23. Actually, @Amedee is online in the new forum. Maybe he'll respond to the tag
  24. i guess i Need to Switch to Faberdashery... Definitely not a bad idea. You pay the premium price, but you also get the premium quality By the way, I found faberdashery PLA to be only a tiny bit (0.01 CHF per meter) more expensive than Diamond Age, which is also premium grade PLA, and a bit cheaper than Colorfabb XT which is my preferred filament for technical high-strength parts. Faberdashery ships all orders above 200£ for free. That's a lot of money, but shipping costs can make a big part of the total cost (especially if you live in Switzerland...)
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