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Everything posted by jonnybischof

  1. Hm... Wahrscheinlich reicht eine einfache Lackierung. Süsswasser oder Salzwasser? Bei Salzwasser müsstest du darauf achten, dass der Lack dagegen resistent ist. Würde ich beim Kaufen nachfragen. Du könntest natürlich auch Silikongummi nehmen (gibt's im Baumarkt), oder Plasti-Dip (gibt's bei Conrad). Die "ultimative" Lackierung: 2-Komponenten Epoxy Spraylack. Teuer wie Sau, aber das Ergebnis ist eine sehr widerstandsfähige Schutzschicht.
  2. Was meinst du genau mit isolieren? Abdichten (wasserdicht machen)? Elektrisch isolieren - PLA ist ein elektrischer Isolator. Wegen der geringen Schmelztemperatur würde ich es allerdings nicht für die Isolation von Kabeln o.ä. empfehlen. ..
  3. http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dichlormethan#Sicherheitshinweise Ich persönlich würde die Finger von dem Zeug lassen. Aber mit den richtigen Vorsichtsmassnahmen und richtigem Umgang dürfte es keine Probleme geben.
  4. Spontan würde ich das mit Araldite (Expoxy 2-Komponentenkleber) probieren. Es gibt den schnellhärtenden (Rapid) und den normalen (Standard oder sowas), wobei der normale ca. eine Stunde "Verarbeitungszeit" hat. Araldite ist "honigviskos", ergibt extrem stabile Verklebungen und ist vor allem wasserfest. Salzwasser dürfte meines Wissens nach auch kein Problem sein. Es gibt noch jede Menge anderer Epoxy 2-Komponentenkleber. Die dürften auch passen. Araldite ist halt das Original.
  5. There isn't, I already bought all of it and am now printing my evil minion army /edit: Right, contribute something... It's not supposed to be like that, but I kinda liked it Diamond Age Sapphire PLA - just. friggin. awesome. !!! My poor photo quality doesn't do it much justice, but that material really looks good. Btw, it failed because I lowered the bed temperature. It sticks well on my PEI plate at 55°C, but not as much as my last PLA, and it doesn't like lower bed temps it seems.
  6. Try 100% infill for XT and printing at high temperature (255°C for me) with low fan speed, looks much better and gets rock solid
  7. You could just leave the positive endstops away. You only need the negative endstops (home position) in order to home the printhead. From there, it can work with the software endstops.
  8. Don't the flexible couplings also "dampen" the motor transmission to the shaft? If you fix the motor directly to the shaft, then the motor will take the full moment of inertia (generated by the x-y-gantry when rapidly changing directions). I'd say that's also what increases the noise, and I'm pretty sure the motors don't like it much, either. However, if there is a flexible coupling between these parts, it will take some of the moment of inertia away. The cheap chinese couplings even take quite a lot - you can easily twist them when you put screwdrivers through the setscrew-holes... I don
  9. Experience is worth more than any money!
  10. This may be interesting for you: http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-features.html Haven't tried T-Glase yet, so I can't tell you much more... They have some information about temperatures (only nozzle temps though), but it should be printable on the bare glass platform without any "sticky material" like glue or tape on it. The optimum bed temperature should be somewhere near the glass transistion temperature of the printing material, which is 78°C. I'd start at 70°C and increase bed temperature if it doesn't stick well enough.
  11. Sorry it took me a while to respond - I was away for the weekend. I have to apologise to you yellowshark. I read this thread and quickly opened Cura to see how the skirt would behave with grouped objects. Cura generated a nice single skirt around a group of five objects placed near each other. So, I wrote my reply. I didn't think about the fact that I always "print all at once" which indeed makes it possible to group objects close to each other and have a single skirt all around them. It does not work in "print one at a time" mode. So, I'm sorry for my earlier, inappropriate reply!
  12. You complain about a problem that doesn't even exist! If you use skirt, but have multiple objects which are placed close to each other, then the skirt will just go around all these parts! The problem you described initially does not exist, and you would have noticed that if you had simply tried it before complaining.
  13. I'm still tuning in.. Until now I got the best results (with my PEI plate) starting off at 255°C with 70°C bed. That's very hot and the XT will melt nicely and get very sticky. As soon as the second layer starts, I go down to 230°C and 65°C bed. I ramp up the fan to be "fully on" at 1mm, and 75% max speed. (That depends a lot on what kind of fan & fan duct you use...). Bed adhesion is actually almost too strong - I can hardly get the pieces off the bed after it's cooled down. Have to play some more with the PEI plate. XT is STRONG. While it is possible to break parts (I broke my first
  14. Oh, sorry I wasn't talking about "your original design", but the "real" original Dremel Workstation, made by Dremel (I may have an older model than the linked one)
  15. Very interesting stuff! The original Dremel workstation is completely useless (stiffness? inexistent...). Hope you got it working better... /edit: Finally got around to making some pics of a print I did I'm currently making an E3Dv5 printhead. First iteration doesn't fully work yet, but it's quite the accomplishment for me. This is by far the most complex construction I've done until now so I'm happy it fits at least partially The part is printed with Colorfabb XT. Very nice material for this purpose! It evens out most of the low-res curves and makes the part quite strong.
  16. ABS "sollte" eigentlich recht gut auf Kapton halten. War bisher das einzige, was bei mir zu guten Resultaten geführt hat. Seit ein paar Tagen benutze ich eine PEI-Dauerdruckplatte von MTPlus - mit sehr guten Resultaten! ABS haftet (bei 90°C Plattform-Temperatur in meinem Fall) exzellent, ohne sonstiges Gebastel. Nach Abkühlen löst sich das Teil von selbst ab. Sehr wahrscheinlich die bestmögliche Lösung! Es kann aber bereits reichen, wenn du einfach nur die Front des UM2 mit Karton oder Luftpolsterfolie (Bubble wrap) zu machst. Es geht darum, dass die Umgebungsluft beim Drucken nicht kalt s
  17. Just don't forget that you can't make the profiles longer than 200mm, and that they will easily break if you apply force to them. Narrows down the effective uses quite a bit...
  18. Beware of the fearsome beast! Guess you're not going to put this up for downloading? I'd love to put some of these around my appartment and put a "beware of tigers!" sign on the door
  19. When it comes to standard parts (like bolts and nuts), I prefer normal steel hardware. It's 1000 times stronger, and even cheaper if you value your time It's still cool to see that it's possible to print working bolts & nuts, but in the end that's just for fun...
  20. Shouldn't be a problem... Maybe reformat it with FAT32.. Easier to get? I didn't find anything below 2GB, and there was only one single 2GB product available...
  21. The few test prints I've made with faberdashery PLA have sticked to the glass (Basalt to be exact) plate at 60°C very well. Actually, much better than any other material I've tried before. No gluestick or anything else used. So you definetly can't go wrong with faberdashery PLA.
  22. I have never really looked into the raft feature. From what pitures I've seen, I remember raft as some ugly and wide net printed under the actual part. Tried it in Cura quickly (don't have much time - I'm just on a quick break) and I actually almost got the result I wanted. It's just a pity that you can't seem to combine it with a brim (which is necessary too or the part will warp). The problem seems to be that the raft consists of two layers. Setting one layer height to 0 removes the extra margin (brim). I'll have a large disc grinder soon, maybe I'll do tests with regular rafts that I can
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