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jonnybischof

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Everything posted by jonnybischof

  1. You're referring to the green box with the "G", and there's only the two layers pretty far up. Right? If that's so, then I can't think of any problem related to printing (which doesn't mean much :-P ) because then the problem should occur more often... Maybe there's a problem with the SD card, like larger prints = larger files, and maybe there's a damaged sector on the SD card. Maybe do an error-check on the SD card? Have you looked at the Layer preview in Cura (if you're using Cura..)? You should be able to see whether there is a line planned to be there or not... /edit: Oh, one thing: It could be a feeding problem if your extruder is pulling on the filament but the spool doesn't move on the holder until the force is high enough, making the spool "pop" and unwind a little. Then the tension starts building up again until the static friction is overcome again -> "pop"... It could be that you get some underextrusion every time before the spool pops. This should be easy to observe. I've got that phenomenon with the "popping" spool all the time, but until now I've not been able to make a definitive connection to sporadic underextrusion. I guess my case is more related to uneven diameters of the filament, but that shouldn't lead to completely empty lines...
  2. Without knowing any details, I think there may also be a drawback to 1.75mm filament: If you have flexible material which has trouble going smoothly through the Bowden tube, wouldn't you have even more trouble with 1.75mm filament because the thinner strain is more flabby than the thicker 3mm strain?
  3. I guess a 2kg Basalt heated bed will do the trick, too? Or is it important to put the weight near the axis instead of far away from it (which changes the force effecting on the axis!)?
  4. Thanks for the help & clarification! I'll try version 3.0 with the next print. I always thought that the "Layer:x" comments were done by hand if people wanted to show some code in the forums Never took a look at the code myself, seems like it's about time for that.. About the "change temp smoothly over time" feature: Next time I have a difficult print, I'll try making that feature by hand and see if it works at all (usually temperature fluctuates a little when it's changed...). I'll report back when I have more news, but it may take some time as there's several upgrades waiting to be done first. /edit: Well, TeakAtZ3.0 doesn't appear in the plugins list when I put it into the folder...
  5. I haven't had that problem, but since I've installed 13.11.02 the printer doesn't abort prints correctly anymore: Instead of just stopping and shutting down the heater as it always did, it just runs the head towards the front until it hits the Y-limit switch and then stops with an error message (limit switch hit). Kinda strange because I don't think this is part of the Gcode? I'm using an Ulticontroller and haven't connected the printer to any PC since September...
  6. Not bad What filament is this? I've had excellent adhesion with the "Raven Super Premium PLA" from qu-bd.com. Just have to print hot enough so that the material goes from matte to shiny. But that only works for larger parts, if you put layers on top of each other too quickly, it all melts up :(
  7. Well that didn't work... I want to print the first layer with 220°C (so that's what I put as the printing temp in the Cura settings), but then lower to 200°C. My initial layer thickness is 0.15mm, layer height 0.1mm. So I put in a tweakAtZ instance with: Z height to tweak at: 0.15 New extruder 1 Temp: 200 But the printer didn't change the temp. /edit: Could it be that I have to use 0.25 which is the Z height after the first layer? /edit2: Didn't do it before, but right now I calculated the numbers you used in your example. Does that mean that I also have to ignore the height of the first layer? I noticed Cura ignores that layer which is really (not) nice if you have parts with tight Z tolerances...
  8. The original UM is not at all obsolete with the UM2 coming to the market! Personally, I'd choose the UM1 over the UM2 if I had to buy one now (and I probably will get one for a friend soon). Without going into any details, I'd say that the UM2 is better suited for people who want a "finished" and ready to go product, while the original UM is better suited for people who want to build the printer themselves and install lots of custom improvements or modifications. Just one example: Modifying the original UM to a direct drive setup is well documented and proven on the Original UM. I haven't seen anyone do that with the UM2 (because it shouldn't be necessary).
  9. Thanks for the clarification! That's probably what went wrong, I didn't mind that... Will try this on the next print
  10. I almost fainted when I took this one out of the printer Had to crack away some of the rolling "tons" from the outer shell, but then after inserting the cage the thing spun freely with almost no friction o.O. And it only took two tries for this to work Stability is not bad: it doesn't come apart even if you apply axial force, but it rattles quite a bit. I'll definetly improve on that. The first version had just about NO play in any direction. But it also took considerable force to turn it... That being said, I printed this on a 100% vanilla UM1. Up to this point, I have not done any modifications to the machine (yet), I'm not even using a different fan shroud. I LOVE THAT PRINTER :mrgreen: Huge thanks to Jumpmobile for showing me the design principle of this bearing! This is going on YM as soon as I'm happy enough with it to consider it finished. It's going to be a part of my upcoming filament spool holder (which is going to have really low friction ). /edit: Can anyone view the video? My browser says he wants the quicktime plugin, but no way I'm going to install that Apple BS... /edit: tried a few different codecs but none seems to work. Any suggestions?
  11. It shouldn't be necessary to seal things up. My UM1 (bought in August) never leaked at all. Not even a little. I'd also suggest you take it apart and put it back together. Take lots of pictures of the assembly so we can tell if you did anything wrong! Don't just keep printing like that - you won't get usable results.
  12. The heater pad seems nice, but they don't give any details at all (voltage, power, anything??) Also, the thermistor doesn't seem to be built-in. Not much of an issue, but this sounds like it's not the best quality (who heats stuff without temperature control?) The same applies to the Aluminum plate - no statement on what kind of material they used. I assume it's not MIC5 or MIC6, because if it were, they would proudly state it. If it's a standard Aluminum plate, it will expand when heated, possibly causing problems. (Possibly, not necessarily). So if you ask me, it seems like you got a cheap solution here (cheap in price, but probably also in quality). I'd go for something a little more sophisticated, but it's a question of how much you're willing to pay... Size-wise, this one will fit just fine. But you have to create some kind of support between the heated build plate and the Z-stage. I'm working on that at the moment (and going to publish it when it's tested), but there are already other working solutions.
  13. Afaik it's not required by law. Getting a CE certification costs something around 20'000 Euros (I don't get to see our company's bills but that's what I heard round the corners). Usually, smaller companies can't afford that. (I'm probably not using very accurate terms below, but you should get what I want to say) The CE sign is a manufacturer statement (contrary to TÜV for example, which can only be issued by the TÜV company itself) that you can technically put on anything you sell if you like to. But then you can be sued if your product turns out not to be compliant, which is why CE is usually certified by specialised companies. But that's OT.. Good to hear your machine works again!
  14. It also means that if you block one with your hand while it's supposed to be running, the other one will be overloaded because the DC resistance of the coils is lower than the AC voltage the fans generate to run...
  15. If you're in the UK, you should definetly go with faberdashery filament. It's excellent quality and the have a good selection. It is some of the most expensive PLA filament on the market, but at least you won't have high shipping costs or taxes. Also, faberdashery claims their filament is produced in the UK, so you support your country's economy by buying from them I haven't printed any ABS yet, so I can't help you with that. /edit: Don't the 100m coils come on spools? Until now I only bought samples, but I thought the 100m coils were actually spools. (Though it doesn't actually say that...) By the way I'm creating a spool holder at the moment. It'll take some more days until I have it ready but it's going to be the best spool holder ever (EVER!!!)
  16. Is there any way to have a look at these github files without having to download the program, create an account, and do a checkout?? Pretty annoying system...
  17. Is there any indicator on the power supply brick itself that shows if it's running or not? I don't see any kind of protection on the UM2 schematics, that means they rely entirely on the external brick to never be faulty. That's actually common for (even sophisticated) hobby projects, but you wouldn't get through any CE certifications like that... Also, there is no ESD protection (not even on the USB connection o.O) which is a little bit alarming. Are you connecting the UM2 to a Laptop or Netbook (anything mobile)?
  18. Yaaay, another cheap-ass China brand fan :( I'd really consider shipping the UMs with fans that are worth something... Doesn't need to be ebm-papst but just something reasonable! Also, I think ball bearing fans are in general a bad choice on moving parts, because the balls tend to get loose inside the bearing and spin around, making crazy noises. Or, use fans with high quality, encapsulated ball bearings. http://www.blacknoise.com/en/site/page/products.industry They'll definetly be around 3 or 4 times more expensive, but in my opinion it should be worth the saved trouble! Btw. I didn't try those, but these would be the first ones I'd try if I was searching for a replacement. I use the consumer versions of those fans a lot and never had problems with any of them.
  19. Nominate for a prize or for work? I tried tweakAtZ, but it simply didn't work.... No temperature change at all. When I noticed it, I changed the temperature manually but the "hard" shift from 220°C to 190°C led to a bad color shift in my beautiful blue faberdashery filament :( Gonna post some pictures when I have time, but now it's time for a work day first...
  20. I've had problems finding the optimal printing temperature for some parts. Namely, while I have large-area layers (equals big layer time), I get the best results using quite high temperatures. If I lower the temperature too much, I get layer adhesion problems and very bad overhang results (the kind of overhang that gets printed perfectly when at the right temperature). But with small-area layers it is (of course :( ) exatly the other way round: High temperature leads to melted layers and ugly results. So, I wonder if it's possible to create a function that correlates layer time and nozzle temperature. This is not so easy because one has to include the time that the heater needs to adjust to a new temperature in the calculation, but it should be doable. A typical example is printing a pyramid-shaped object (in my particular case: I like the customizable cube gears from thingiverse, but always get molten tops) I'm going to try if I can get a satisfactory result with the "tweakAtZ" plugin, but it would be nice to have that feature automated...
  21. Ein Tipp zur Drucktemperatur: Wenn du die Temperatur z.B. auf 200°C einstellst, heisst das nicht, dass das Filament an der Düse auch tatsächlich eine Temperatur von 200°C erreicht! Deine Düse wird zwar 200°C heiss sein, aber das Filament wird einfach so lange geheizt, wie es mit der Heizung in Kontakt ist. Je schneller du druckst, desto tiefer wird also die tatsächliche Filamenttemperatur sein. Für schnelle Drucke kann also eine deutlich höhere Drucktemperatur erforderlich sein, um das Filament auf eine bestimmte Temperatur zu bringen. Zahlen zu nennen bringt überhaupt nichts, das unterscheidet sich zwischen verschiedenen Druckern, deren Umgebung, dem verwendeten Filament und vielleicht noch mehreren Variablen. Am besten machst du einfach einen Testdruck, z.B. einen Turm mit 20x20x50mm Grösse, und variierst die Temperatur während des Drucks. Dann schaust du, bei welcher Temperatur du das beste Ergebnis kriegst. In deinem Fall würde ich bei der Obergrenze der Temperatur (üblicherweise 240°C, je nach Filament) beginnen und dann so lange die Temperatur verringern, bis du den optimalen Punkt gefunden hast.
  22. Ouch :-/ Any idea on how to prevent this? Maybe put new-bought filament very loosely on it's spool, and use a separate chamber with not too much desiccant inside? Then wait 1-2 days until you start using it. I think I'm going to try something like that (my spools have been laying around for some time now...) when I'm done with my desiccator (exsiccator is german btw ). Might take some time because right now I'm preparing a bigger heated bed & direct drive upgrade on my UM.
  23. I don't see how this would improve things. One thing that might improve the overall stability/accuracy, is adding rods with linear bearings in the front of the machine. This would increase the rigidity of the Z-stage. I think the reason why this is not implemented in the UM1 by default is that it is simply not necessary (the UM1 already prints pretty well in standard configuration). But it might improve things a little. Also, it might help with particularly heavy build plates like basalt or massive aluminum heatbeds.
  24. "Look Mr. Wilson, there's a machine in that one". (made my day!) The reason why I chose to buy an Ultimaker in favor of anything else was the way the company works. The whole open-source system opens up possibilities you won't find anywhere else. And here in the forums, you can always find help, be it from the company-members or from experienced users (you have my gratitude for your huge interest and effort in helping others!!!). I own an UM1, assembled the kit myself (hence no shipping troubles, packaging was perfect for the kit) and never had any serious issues that didn't prove to be my fault. But the UM1 was a pretty mature product when I got it and most problems were already "common" and known how to be solved. I'm sure that it won't take long until the problems with the UM2 are adressed and solved. It's probably a nightmare for a relatively young company having to assemble, ship out, support and manage lots of customers around the world but I'm sure they'll learn from it and improve. I work in a young, unexperienced company myself. Right now I'm setting up product documentation templates AFTER several years of wavy engineering... For a frustrated customer this may seem like only a small comfort, but try to be constructive with your criticism, complain decently about what's not good and keep calm. People here seem to really care and want to help, so don't take away their motivation but show some compassion and respect! Bad air never leads to better results...
  25. The class shouldn't be a problem as this is just a "can go that high speed if you need me to" feature. SDHC cards however require the reader (Ulticontroller) to be able to read their format (large address range, maybe bigger block size, I don't know the details). I guess the Arduino can't handle that because it's usually not necessary for this type of hardware platform, but who knows?
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