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jonnybischof

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Everything posted by jonnybischof

  1. Actually, they are ball bearing fans (the balls are making the noise), they're just cheap ball bearings... When I started the printer this morning, the electronics fan greeted me with a very annoying roaring. After a few minutes, it returned to normal, but I consider this fan "broken". So now, after only about 30 hours of printing, both stock fans are in need of replacement. This is no problem for me, but I'd be much better (and it would cost less) if the stock fans were upgraded for quality parts. Didn't have time to look for a radial fan replacement yet. Maybe I'll just strip an old graphics card, there should be one laying around somewhere...
  2. The stock fans are really low quality... Both my fans have the typical "bad ball bearing" noise that comes from the balls spinning freely inside the bearing and crashing into each other whenever you move the fan (typical for hotend fan). Ultimaking should really consider including better fans. The small increase in cost (of course the price will need to be adjusted) is definitely worth it. The radial fan design is actually very good (most high-end graphics cards use designs like this), just the fan itself is low-quality... Axial fans can't work well if they don't have sufficient space where they "suck" in air. This is the case with the UM as the fans are very close to the ground the UM stands on. Radial fans are designed to suck in air from a confined space (like in-between two stacked graphics cards). I'll go searching for a good, suitable radial fan when I have time.
  3. Are you talking about the hot-end or the extruder on the back of the machine? Hot-end: I guess the E3D hotend looks really interesting, but my stock hotend is perfect at the moment - no issues at all... Don't know about the extruder on the back, mine works fine as well for now.
  4. Does anyone know a supplier who will deliver MIC6 Aluminum internationally? I don't think I'll find that stuff in Switzerland, but delivery shouldn't be much of an issue...
  5. LOL! I didn't realize it was up already... /edit: I don't get the sense of the "download pdf" function. Is there something wrong with this or what is it's purpose?
  6. Hi community I want to make a heated bed for my UM. I started drawing a "common" PCB with heating coils, then I realised I'd have to calculate a lot and probably won't get accurate final results because of the usual manufacturing tolerances for PCBs. Also, I ran across a theoretical problem: If you fix a "heater PCB" to an aluminum plate and heat both up, then both objects will expand. As the materials are (very) different, they will expand unevenly and create tension across the bed. I don't know whether this would lead to the bed bending (probably not), or the PCB bending and losing contact to the aluminum plate, or if the effect is too small and nothing at all happens. Anyways, it seems like a flawed principle. So I searched for a different approach to create my heated bed, and I found one. I won't be using a PCB heater coil, but power resistors in TO-220 package. There are many benefits: + Have multiple resistors distributed all over (or under in this case) the heated bed to get a uniform heating. + Have less current per heater unit which makes things easier. + Be very flexible with heating power by just using the resistor values that you want to. + Add multiple temperature sensors distributed between the resistors and create different "sectors" that are heated individually to keep them all at the same temperature. + Construction is simple. You only need the aluminum heated bed and just glue all the stuff on the back (with thermally conductive 2K-glue) + Less power draw fluctuation by creating a smart PWM (not all resistors are active at the same time, instead stack them one after another) Sadly, this won't be cheaper than the PCB variant, as the power resistors can get very pricey and you also need a custom heater controller (I'll get to that). But the price should stay manageable, I'm calculating around 150 Euros for the complete package inculding power supply. So, I already started drawing the schematics for the controller, but I have one basic question first: What would be the highest temperature I (or anyone using my design) want to reach? There would be a hard limit at about 150°C, because that's the absolute maximum temperature allowed for the resistors. Also, this will define the kind of temperature sensor that I'll use... /edit One more thing: Does anyone know the dimensions of the printer bed and most importantly, the mounting holes? The lasercut-parts files on thingiverse are of no use for me - can't use eps (no clue what to do with that...) and there are no dimensioned drawings...
  7. Maybe you could integrate some kind of "design rules" into the editor. Like that you can enter your nozzle size and then get error messages for every part of the model that would require a smaller nozzle diameter. Maybe you can also make a function that displays your model in a "printed preview" like with visible layering so that you can see how the model will look like with 0.2mm layer height compared to 0.06mm... Also, I'd like a function that detects overhangs and creates supports automatically. Stuff that's dedicated to 3D-printing... I think if you can integrate functions like that, then users have a good reason to create or at least finish their models with your editor. Comparably, Creo (Wildfire or whatever 1000 names they gave their product) has functions dedicated to make (bent) sheet metal parts. Instead of calculating every bent edge and keeping the flat starting point in mind, you just tell the program to bend the sheet metal here and there, and the editor does the rest. That makes the program extremely helpful with that stuff, and only an idiot would create sheet metal parts with a program that doesn't have this function set.
  8. Hi Alice I've just completed the assembly last week - wasn't that difficult. Just read the instructions carefully and follow them. It took me several days, but I managed to get everything done without any problems. I can only recommend reading through the forums while you're waiting for the UM to arrive. Lots of information here to avoid problems! You might want to get some stuff: - light machine oil (also called "sewing machine oil" in german), I found it in a DIY store, car department - Fine, flat pliers (don't know how this is called exactly in english, picture: - Optionally a screw wrench (coach wrench) for tightening nuts And that should be it... I wouldn't recommend using an electric screwdriver. I used one for some parts, it's prone to overtighten the bolts. Btw I paid with PayPal, no problems there. You don't have to link it to your bank account or credit card, you can just make a payment on your PayPal account and then spend the money from there. PayPal can't access your bank account itself. /edit: I forgot: I strongly recommend getting better pulleys. Check out this topic: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1611-fixing-pulley-innacuracy/ Maybe you can still get some from the second batch. These pulleys are expensive, but they'll be worth it (I've seen the stock pulleys myself...) Oh, and another thing: When mounting the pulleys, throw away the black set screws and use the spare ones. They're much better. I've squished the hex-thread on a black one and almost didn't get it back out. Have fun building your kit! Jonny
  9. Thanks for sharing!! I've been looking for a reason to get a Raspberry Pi, but never found one Webcam is already ordered. I hope a usual USB Webcam goes? (sorry didn't read through the octoprint page yet) I ordered a "Microsoft LifeCam Studio". So the Pi will replace the Ulticontroller? That's sad, i kinda like it :(
  10. Bei mir genauso. Lediglich den allerersten Druck habe ich direkt ab PC gemacht. Habe mich dann kaum getraut, am PC was anderes zu machen. Mit Ulticontroller läuft bisher alles perfekt, habe hier im Forum auch noch nichts über Probleme mit dem UC gelesen..
  11. Tip: Habe meine Wartezeit zwischen Bestellen und Erhalten des UMs genutzt, mich hier im Forum umzusehen (5 Arbeitstage, lebe ausserhalb der EU...). Viele mögliche Probleme kannst du von vornherein vermeiden, indem du darüber liest...
  12. Hab heute meinen selbstgebauten Ultimaker in Betrieb genommen - funktioniert einwandfrei! Der Zusammenbau macht auf jeden Fall Spass (wenn man Spass am Zusammenbauen von Dingen hat..) und ist auch ohne Vorkennntnisse machbar. Einfach die Anleitung sehr genau lesen und befolgen. Die Anleitung ist ausserdem in Englisch - wenn du gar kein Wort Englisch kannst, wirst du Mühe haben. Wegen dem Lockern von Schrauben habe ich mir auch gewisse Sorgen gemacht - man kann die Schrauben im Holz einfach nicht so fest anziehen, wie man gerne würde... Schraubensicherungslack (wieder lösbar!) hilft auf jeden Fall, habe ich leider gerade nicht zur Hand gehabt. Ein weiterer Vorteil beim Selberbauen: Du lernst die Maschine gleich kennen und weisst, wie sie funktioniert. Das ist auf jeden Fall ein Vorteil, denn das fertige Kit ist genauso wenig wartungsfrei wie der Eigenbau...
  13. Hi all! Just did my very first print and I am SO loving the Ultimaker!!! THANK YOU ULTIMAKING LTD *hail* While the result isn't nearly as good as it can get, it didn't fail and it doesn't have many bad flaws. Just the antennas at the top melted on me, probably too hot (220°C) and not enough cooling / layer time... Note that I did not change any settings at all, just changed the default setting to "high quality print" and hit the print button right away from the first start screen The second robot is already printing at slightly changed settings and 1.5 times the size. Will update when it's done... About me: I'm from Zürich, Switzerland. Just turned 26 (the UM was my birthday present to myself ). I work as an electronics engineer (no academic degree though) at Felsenmeer AG where I develop lone-worker protection systems (google our website if you're interested). I made an apprenticeship at Besi Switzerland (used to be Esec AG) where I learned a LOT about industrial machines (Die-Bonding equipment, epoxy as well as soft-solder). These machines aren't so different to an Ultimaker. Of course a lot more complex and expensive, but basically the systems are surprisingly similar. So no wonder that I love the UM so much What I'm gonna want to make... ...for the company: * Prototype / concept cases for our product * Maybe even a final series production of a product I just designed (very low volume production / year so it might just be perfect) * live-size models of circuit boards for our products ...for myself: * Anything I like on thingiverse :shock: * Whatever I need to improve the UM * When all is done, I'll start a project building (functional) robot-toys with advanced electronics and cool 3D-printed bodies (Maybe this will go on YouMagine...) Greetings from Zürich! Jonny
  14. Hi Thanks for the info on STL. I decided to start with Sketchup but I guess this one won't be enough to make actual construction designs... Maybe when I got the hang of Sketchup (which is ridiculously easy to understand) I'll take another look at Creo. Right now I just hate it But I guess it's manageable if your PC mouse survives the learning curve and it's annoyances... :-P
  15. Okay, as long as you don't get any short-circuits anymore, it should be fine... I'd keep an eye on that though.
  16. I'd recommend you get a replacement for that.. Be aware that this is not a thermistor but a thermocouple. You should get a replacement from UM, I don't think you'll find a perfect replacement elsewhere. And don't turn it on again if it goes sparky on you! You might have to replace other things as well (like the thermocouple amplifier board if you shorted the heater's power path to the very low voltage thermocouple inputs). You can check the amp board for visual damage like burnt parts, but don't count on it... Thinking about it, I can't really think of anything that would create sparks but the heater cartridge. The thermocouple generates it's own voltage (only about a millivolt) which is amplified on the amp board. Shorting a thermocouple results in nothing but getting a "zero" reading (might be your 40 degrees, I'm not sure about the details as I mostly worked on the hardware part, not the calculations). Are you sure the heater cartridge cables are ok? No burnt insulation?
  17. I love the idea!! Did I read that correctly, you want to create an online-editor for 3D-Designs? Like I draw my stuff in my browser? That sounds kinda strange.. And I don't think you'll just stamp a 3D designer program out of the ground that is better than say a professional program for professionals, or Sketchup for the simple user like me... But prove me wrong, please! I'd suggest using subversion for projects. It's free and easy to use, and it prevents stuff from getting lost or just written over by someone... I'm trying to get a project started which I believe will fit into YouMagine very well, so I'm eager to test the stuff! Atm I'm still building my UM and working my way into 3D-drawing / construction, so consider me a total noob in the "Maker" world, but there's no lack in ideas
  18. Tolle Befestigung! Sieht sehr schick aus.. Hast du die Oberfläche der Aluplatte auch gerade gefräst? Hast du das MK2 einfach an die Aluplatte geklemmt, oder noch etwas wärmeleitendes dazwischen?
  19. Google sagt, dass Plastite ein Markenname für eine Schraube ist, welche offenbar besonders resistent gegen unbeabsichtigtes Lösen in Plastik ist. Grundsätzlich kannst du auch eine andere geeignete Schraube nehmen. Beispielsweise eine "Blechtreibschraube" (könnte auch einfach unter "Blechschraube" laufen, oder etwas wie "Schraube, selbstschneidend"). Es gibt auch welche, die leicht geriffelte Schneiden haben. Die lösen sich auch kaum, sind aber eher schwer zu finden... Es braucht keine Torx-Schraube zu sein, kann auch Kreuzschlitz oder sonst was sein. Du brauchst nur den passenden Schraubenzieher Bei der Grösse bin ich jetzt nicht so sicher. Schau dir halt die Originalschraube an. Du brauchst in etwa dieselbe Grösse, aber etwas dicker, da sich die Schraube ihr eigenes Gewinde schneidet beim Eindrehen. Und wie schon erwähnt wurde, du brauchst das eigentlich nur zu machen, falls dein M3 Gewinde tatsächlich kaputt ist. /Edit: Die verlinkte Schraube ist möglicherweise zu dünn! Ich meine (bin aber nicht sicher) dass sich 3.0 (mm) auf den Aussendurchmesser, also die Klingen, bezieht... Müsste also eher eine 4mm Schraube sein.
  20. Aaah okay, dann entschuldige bitte meine Anmassung Hat sich halt so nach "tralala ich steck dies Mal hier rein und dies Mal da..." gelesen :shock:
  21. Am einfachsten wird wohl ein Messschieber sein. Digitalanzeige hilft, ist aber nicht wirklich notwendig. Es gibt eine professionelle Technik, mit der die "Rundheit" von Objekten sehr präzise gemessen werden kann. Die Details sind mir nicht mehr präsent, aber auf jeden Fall braucht man dafür eine spezialisierte Messeinrichtung (ich glaube, das war was mit Laser) welche nicht mal eben irgendwo rumsteht. Da wahrscheinlich auch Filament von derselben Marke / Typ noch relativ grosse Unterschiede zwischen verschiedenen Produktionslosen haben dürfte, ist eine so genaue Bestimmung imho eh überflüssig... Ich würde vorschlagen, eine einfache Messvorrichtung zu machen, welche aus einer Stahlplatte mit präzise gebohrten (oder gelaserten) Löchern versehen ist. z.B. 2.85mm bis 3.1 mm in 0.25mm Schritten. Die Messung macht man dann einfach, indem man ein Stück Filament durchs Loch schiebt. Passt es, so ist es kleiner oder gleich gross wie der Lochdurchmesser... Passt ein Filament nicht sauber durch die grösste zugelassene Bohrung, so ist es ungeeignet. Sowas müsste sich eigentlich recht einfach herstellen lassen. Ideal wäre natürlich eine Sammelbestellung weil die Einrichtungskosten bei sowas meistens den Hauptteil der Kosten ausmachen... Jemand Interesse?
  22. Könntest du das genauer erklären? So wie du das geschrieben hast, klingt das etwas nach mutwilliger Zerstörung...
  23. Did you check all the cables? Maybe the motor connector was loose and lost it's connection. Also check that the cable sits on the connector properly (these are crimp connectors, they may pop out of the connector when you pull on them too hard or even when you plug in the connector) Then, there's the stepper driver. Check if it's connected the right way. Try switching the stepper driver with another driver. If another motor stops working then - you got your problem. Also check the motor cable carefully if there is no damage. This may be a little tricky if you don't have a multimeter. But often you can see if there's damage if you look carefully. If there is any visible damage (broken insulation or cable flattened), you should switch out the cable (if possible) or the whole motor (if you can't rework the cable yourself). If you don't find the problem, check the extruder mechanics. Maybe they're blocked. If everything fails (and no one else has any more suggestions) you'll have to switch out the motor with another one. No need to put them back in the machine, just connect the extruder motor to another port on the UM and see if it works. If not, you probably got a damaged motor.
  24. Didn't read the whole thread again, so I don't remeber if you already tried switching over the X and Y stepper drivers. If not, you should do that before switching the motors (it's much easier and maybe the driver is the problem...).
  25. Well there's still gonna be a bowden tube, isn't it? Just the extruder will pull the filament out of the boweden tube instead of pushing it into it.. You may also have the same issues with the filament getting stuck in the tube, but at least it'll hardly pop out with your setup
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