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Everything posted by jonnybischof

  1. Try Cura 15.04, which you can get here: https://ultimaker.com/en/cura-software/list If it works with 15.04, then the new 15.06 is probably not supporting that feature just yet. If it doesn't work even with 15.04, then you're doing something wrong. Maybe your .stl files don't consist of multiple parts? Note that only parts that are not touching each other at all are separable. Complex parts can take a long time to split up (at least with 15.04). The program doesn't respond anymore, but it is calculating and will continue normally once the splitting is done.
  2. It's actually not shrinking, but the fact that the nozzle drags the filament string inwards when making circles. The smaller the circle, the more this effect occurs. * It's quite possible that clockwise and counter-clockwise circles drag differently, which leads to the rippled surface. The outside surface is clean, so it is not a "mechanical" problem with the printer. There is also another effect, which I believe to be a bug in Cura or Marlin. I get these "partially shifted" layers, too. It can't be a mechanical problem, because it never affects a full layer, but always specific parts of th
  3. They had that coming... Unhappy customers can really make your life hell
  4. Theoretically you could calibrate the heights in software instead of making an adjustable printhead. You can adjust the Z-platform when changing printheads. The other printheads are parked, so they don't get in the way. The question is, how to do it with Marlin...
  5. You need to make very thick walls with XT (actually, I always make 2 shells & 100% infill) to get "unbreakable" parts. Also, you need to find the temperature sweet-spot. I found that I have to print XT as hot as possible without getting too much stringing / melting. It needs to really melt and bond with the previous layers.
  6. The shop's owner @3d-printerstore24 is a forum member. I'm not sure if he's still active here, but now he's gonna get a notification about this thread (Or not, if the tagging function doesn't work...) /edit: tagging doesn't seem to work? It does work with my name: @jonnybischof... And I did write the name correctly. -.-
  7. You could use www.youmagine.com for uploading the stl and other files.
  8. True enough, though Colorfabb has a very good name... Sometimes various colors from the same manufacturer also make a big difference. Maybe just try another color if you have any?
  9. Just a detail, but you should increase your travel speed. The higher the difference between printing speed and travel speed, the better. Much less oozing and stringing that way. I'd recommend 150 mm/s travel speed. Faster is possible, but I like to keep speeds to a minimum on my UMO. /edit: If your UMO has problems with 150mm/s travel speed, then you should inspect your gantry. Everything perfectly rectangular? shafts oiled?
  10. I wonder why you'd prefer rails over shafts & linear bearings. I'm planning to use 12mm Misumi precision shafts & linear bearings for the immobile axis (weight is not a concern, and 12mm shafts are REALLY strong for that purpose). The other axis will use two 8mm shafts. That should be more than stiff enough, and definitely more precise than rails (except if you use high-precision rails, which cost a fortune...) /edit: Note that no bronze bushings are needed, because none of the shafts in an H-bot rotates. Using good quality Misumi linear bearings (forget about the cheap reprap stuf
  11. Hi anon, nice to hear from you, too! Actually I have some pins left, because the three address pins won't be needed, instead I'll solve the address problem in software. The actual problem is the space needed for wire connections. As it usually happens with my first prototypes - the pads / holes for mounting wires are MUCH too small, especially the power input pads. I really want to keep this thing as small as possible, which is why I need to keep the features at a minimum, too. If you don't need the Switch output for anything else, you can connect a fan there and manually switch it on and o
  12. Maybe you have unchecked the "solid infill top" setting in Cura? Happens to me all the time... I found Cura's standard 0.6mm top / bottom thickness to be too little. But your 1.0mm setting should be more than enough, especially with 26% infill. Do you have very high ambient tempearture ( 30°C+) ? Could also be that your stepper motors are overheating from such a high ambient temperature. But that would not only affect the top covering, but the whole print... http://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/16631-summer-time
  13. I'd like to have something like this as well! Maybe, instead of following particular users, it would be better to have a "friends" function like in the old forum. You could use this as a shortcut to that user's profile, where you can see his/her latest activity. That would spare you the notifications...
  14. Tbh, I didn't have to do an atomic pull for about a year now, so I'm really not an expert on that My Ultimaker has been working flawlessly ever since I started using only Diamond Age and Faberdashery PLA...
  15. Did you reduce the retraction distance? I read that you need to set it to 2.5mm (instead of 4.5mm Ultimaker default) for the E3D. Not sure if that only counts for direct extruders, or also Bowden type...
  16. You can easily check if the E3D hotend fan works well enough. If you touch the large heatsink, it has to be cool. Even at the lowest fin. I remember someone saying that even if it feels "just a little warm", you will get clogs.
  17. I don't think it's about stealing information, but doing damage to the printer, or simply disturbing / sabotaging prints. If it is possible to create a true read-only access to this data, then I'd be open for it. But I believe it would be very difficult to protect this program from being abused for a different purpose, such as controlling the printer, or even simply just gaining access to the other devices (computers) connected to the printer. It's a bit early for me to go into too much detail - I've only just started putting my electronics designs together. Firmware (and feature) programmin
  18. The thing is - it's nearly impossible to protect anything that is connected to the internet. The best protection is if nobody cares about it, hence no one attempts to hack / attack it. For now, it may be true that no one cares about hacking someone's 3D printer, but that may change in the future. So, there is no way I'd ever use or buy a printer (or a printer accessory) that could enable someone to control the printer from the internet. I am however working on an electronics platform that features a bluetooth connection to a smartphone, and an app that will be able to control the printer.
  19. Hat es dir das Zimmer zugenebelt, oder waren es nur ein paar kleine Rauchschwaden? Vermutlich hat sich etwas PLA am Rand der Düse gesammelt. Könnte zum Beispiel sein, dass ein kleineres Stück eines Druckobjekts abgebrochen ist und sich an der Düse festgesetzt hat. Dieses PLA köchelt dann schön vor sich hin, und löst sich irgendwann in Rauch auf. Es könnte auch sein, dass dein Hotend undicht ist, und PLA zwischen der Düse und dem PEEK Isolator hervorquillt, welches dann ebenfalls mit der Zeit verkohlt. Falls dem so ist, dann solltest du das Problem beheben. Beim UM2 kann ich dir damit allerd
  20. Update: Added some wiring options (Wiring.pdf in the document sections). Some more info about how to use this printhead controller: It is an I2C slave device, meaning that any microcontroller (e.g. a RepRap electronics platform) that can act as an I2C master device - and has the SCL and SDA pins available - can connect and use it. Thanks to the I2C architecture, multiple printhead controllers can be connected using only these two pins. I will publish the full list of available I2C commands once it's ready. As I said, I'm not planning on writing any code for Marlin platforms. Why? I don't
  21. As some of you may know, I'm working on a big step forward in 3D printer electronics. Today I'm releasing the first piece of the cake: The printhead controller! https://www.youmagine.com/designs/printhead-controller Note that this design is not finished yet, but it is at a state where I want to go public and get you guys involved. So... What does it do, and why? Simply put - I'm outsourcing the printhead functions (temperature, heater and fan control) directly into the printhead, where they belong. The electronics mainboard will only have to send commands to the printhead like "put the noz
  22. Already know how to power four extruders? I've been working on the electronics platform to do this for quite some time now /edit: I thought about using some relays to switch between different motors on one stepper driver. But there are a few problems with that. For one, you'll lose control over the disconnected stepper motor (maybe lose tension on the filament in the process...). This might be overcome by shorting the coils of disconnected motors together. But I doubt that would work for longer periods of time. My conclusion was that I want an actual 8-driver electronics platform (for 5
  23. Can't reproduce your issue @cloakfiend. Scrolling does behave somewhat strange. Feels like it's lagging / stuttering. But it doesn't jump. Using Win7 pro 64, FF (also tested with IE - no jumping)
  24. This is why SSRs are just plain bad If you have a soldering iron, you could take a look at my Heated bed MosFET relay hack. This one can handle more than 10A without needing a heatsink. Why? Because it uses a high performance MosFET in contrary to the cheap stuff they put in these SSRs. Also, my hack lacks any kind of safeties. But as you can see on your part, these don't work anyways If you use the hack, just make sure you wire it up EXACTLY like shown in the schematics. You put your SSR in the positive path (between 12V and the heatbed), and not the negative path (between the heatbed a
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