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jonnybischof

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Everything posted by jonnybischof

  1. Try Cura 15.04, which you can get here: https://ultimaker.com/en/cura-software/list If it works with 15.04, then the new 15.06 is probably not supporting that feature just yet. If it doesn't work even with 15.04, then you're doing something wrong. Maybe your .stl files don't consist of multiple parts? Note that only parts that are not touching each other at all are separable. Complex parts can take a long time to split up (at least with 15.04). The program doesn't respond anymore, but it is calculating and will continue normally once the splitting is done.
  2. It's actually not shrinking, but the fact that the nozzle drags the filament string inwards when making circles. The smaller the circle, the more this effect occurs. * It's quite possible that clockwise and counter-clockwise circles drag differently, which leads to the rippled surface. The outside surface is clean, so it is not a "mechanical" problem with the printer. There is also another effect, which I believe to be a bug in Cura or Marlin. I get these "partially shifted" layers, too. It can't be a mechanical problem, because it never affects a full layer, but always specific parts of the print over several layers. I wanted to try another slicer to see if the result would be better, but I've been to busy to do that until now o.O *: A thought that just came to mind: Maybe the effect can be reduced by slightly increasing flow. The dragging suggests a slight amount of underextrusion...
  3. They had that coming... Unhappy customers can really make your life hell
  4. Theoretically you could calibrate the heights in software instead of making an adjustable printhead. You can adjust the Z-platform when changing printheads. The other printheads are parked, so they don't get in the way. The question is, how to do it with Marlin...
  5. You need to make very thick walls with XT (actually, I always make 2 shells & 100% infill) to get "unbreakable" parts. Also, you need to find the temperature sweet-spot. I found that I have to print XT as hot as possible without getting too much stringing / melting. It needs to really melt and bond with the previous layers.
  6. The shop's owner @3d-printerstore24 is a forum member. I'm not sure if he's still active here, but now he's gonna get a notification about this thread (Or not, if the tagging function doesn't work...) /edit: tagging doesn't seem to work? It does work with my name: @jonnybischof... And I did write the name correctly. -.-
  7. You could use www.youmagine.com for uploading the stl and other files.
  8. True enough, though Colorfabb has a very good name... Sometimes various colors from the same manufacturer also make a big difference. Maybe just try another color if you have any?
  9. Just a detail, but you should increase your travel speed. The higher the difference between printing speed and travel speed, the better. Much less oozing and stringing that way. I'd recommend 150 mm/s travel speed. Faster is possible, but I like to keep speeds to a minimum on my UMO. /edit: If your UMO has problems with 150mm/s travel speed, then you should inspect your gantry. Everything perfectly rectangular? shafts oiled?
  10. I wonder why you'd prefer rails over shafts & linear bearings. I'm planning to use 12mm Misumi precision shafts & linear bearings for the immobile axis (weight is not a concern, and 12mm shafts are REALLY strong for that purpose). The other axis will use two 8mm shafts. That should be more than stiff enough, and definitely more precise than rails (except if you use high-precision rails, which cost a fortune...) /edit: Note that no bronze bushings are needed, because none of the shafts in an H-bot rotates. Using good quality Misumi linear bearings (forget about the cheap reprap stuff) should get you the best possible accuracy.
  11. Hi anon, nice to hear from you, too! Actually I have some pins left, because the three address pins won't be needed, instead I'll solve the address problem in software. The actual problem is the space needed for wire connections. As it usually happens with my first prototypes - the pads / holes for mounting wires are MUCH too small, especially the power input pads. I really want to keep this thing as small as possible, which is why I need to keep the features at a minimum, too. If you don't need the Switch output for anything else, you can connect a fan there and manually switch it on and off. The Switch output can be used with 24V or 12V - by simply using one or the other V+ pad. This is not clear in the schematics yet, but I'm writing the complete User's Guide these days. The Printhead Controller must be reflow-soldered. There's some really small components, such as the QFN-16 PIC microcontroller and the power mosfet (Q20). On top of that, the user will have to do some manual solderwork connecting all the wires. Connectors take up a lot of space, and you have to get the connectors on the wires as well which can be much more troublesome than simply soldering them onto the PCB directly. Once the project is ready for it, I'll ask around if there's some reprap distributor who wants to produce these. I'm pretty sure someone's going to be interested I'm going to make a few myself, but have no plans on selling them in larger quantities. I do actually want to integrate some more features. The most important one would be a means to measure filament flow. This could be either a simple switch that tells you whether or not there is filament in the extruder, or an actual quadrature encoder input. Most probably the latter, with the option to use a simple button on the same connection instead. I'm not sure if the MCU has enough processing power (and memory) for that, but that's what I have the prototype for. By the way - not much progress on the prototypes so far. I have a lot of work at the moment and just don't get anywhere.. I'll have a two weeks holiday soon. I'll get it done then.
  12. Maybe you have unchecked the "solid infill top" setting in Cura? Happens to me all the time... I found Cura's standard 0.6mm top / bottom thickness to be too little. But your 1.0mm setting should be more than enough, especially with 26% infill. Do you have very high ambient tempearture ( 30°C+) ? Could also be that your stepper motors are overheating from such a high ambient temperature. But that would not only affect the top covering, but the whole print... http://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/16631-summer-time
  13. I'd like to have something like this as well! Maybe, instead of following particular users, it would be better to have a "friends" function like in the old forum. You could use this as a shortcut to that user's profile, where you can see his/her latest activity. That would spare you the notifications...
  14. Tbh, I didn't have to do an atomic pull for about a year now, so I'm really not an expert on that My Ultimaker has been working flawlessly ever since I started using only Diamond Age and Faberdashery PLA...
  15. Did you reduce the retraction distance? I read that you need to set it to 2.5mm (instead of 4.5mm Ultimaker default) for the E3D. Not sure if that only counts for direct extruders, or also Bowden type...
  16. You can easily check if the E3D hotend fan works well enough. If you touch the large heatsink, it has to be cool. Even at the lowest fin. I remember someone saying that even if it feels "just a little warm", you will get clogs.
  17. I don't think it's about stealing information, but doing damage to the printer, or simply disturbing / sabotaging prints. If it is possible to create a true read-only access to this data, then I'd be open for it. But I believe it would be very difficult to protect this program from being abused for a different purpose, such as controlling the printer, or even simply just gaining access to the other devices (computers) connected to the printer. It's a bit early for me to go into too much detail - I've only just started putting my electronics designs together. Firmware (and feature) programming is still a few weeks out...
  18. The thing is - it's nearly impossible to protect anything that is connected to the internet. The best protection is if nobody cares about it, hence no one attempts to hack / attack it. For now, it may be true that no one cares about hacking someone's 3D printer, but that may change in the future. So, there is no way I'd ever use or buy a printer (or a printer accessory) that could enable someone to control the printer from the internet. I am however working on an electronics platform that features a bluetooth connection to a smartphone, and an app that will be able to control the printer. The bluetooth connection automatically acts as a barrier, because as soon as you (and your phone) go away from the printer, the connection is lost and control is disabled. Gathering data, such as print profiles and material settings, could happen through the smartphone app (Though that would not be something I'd be willing to program myself).
  19. Hat es dir das Zimmer zugenebelt, oder waren es nur ein paar kleine Rauchschwaden? Vermutlich hat sich etwas PLA am Rand der Düse gesammelt. Könnte zum Beispiel sein, dass ein kleineres Stück eines Druckobjekts abgebrochen ist und sich an der Düse festgesetzt hat. Dieses PLA köchelt dann schön vor sich hin, und löst sich irgendwann in Rauch auf. Es könnte auch sein, dass dein Hotend undicht ist, und PLA zwischen der Düse und dem PEEK Isolator hervorquillt, welches dann ebenfalls mit der Zeit verkohlt. Falls dem so ist, dann solltest du das Problem beheben. Beim UM2 kann ich dir damit allerdings nicht helfen, da muss jemand anders einspringen. Problematisch wird es, wenn es stark raucht, und vor allem stinkt. PLA stinkt ja nicht wirklich (und ist auch kaum gesundheitsschädigend), wenn es verkohlt. Das würde dann auf einen Kurzschluss bei der Heizkartusche hindeuten.
  20. Update: Added some wiring options (Wiring.pdf in the document sections). Some more info about how to use this printhead controller: It is an I2C slave device, meaning that any microcontroller (e.g. a RepRap electronics platform) that can act as an I2C master device - and has the SCL and SDA pins available - can connect and use it. Thanks to the I2C architecture, multiple printhead controllers can be connected using only these two pins. I will publish the full list of available I2C commands once it's ready. As I said, I'm not planning on writing any code for Marlin platforms. Why? I don't know Marlin (and Arduino, if that matters) and the MCU behind it well-enough to be able to do that without a significant effort. Let's talk about a few more details on the controller itself: The key concept is to keep the physical size, functionality, and cost to a minimum. This is why I don't want to add more PWM channels, or support lots of different temperature sensor types. I'm using industry standard PT1000 RTD sensors. These are more expensive (around 2$) than the 100k NTCs we all know, but are much more reliable, accurate, and have a higher temperature range. Reading a PT1000 is a bit more difficult than an NTC. The necessary circuit is built-in on the printhead controller. It provides a precise 1 mA current source. This current flows through the PT1000, which has a resistance of 1k Ohms at 25°C. 1 mA over 1 k Ohms equals 1 V, which is measured by the A/D converter and interpreted as "25°C". The resistance - and therefore the voltage and the A/D reading - changes with temperature. The printhead controller has basically nothing to do other than react to the I2C commands, set up a PWM module for fan speed (which will then run by itself in the background), and control the heater. That means a much better heater regulation which is a welcome improvement. If the heater control is located inside the printhead, it means that three important weak spots of current RepRap printers are eliminated: - long temperature sensor wiring - long, EMI-heavy heater and fan PWM wiring - heater failures due to locked up mainboards, interference on the sensor wire or broken wiring Of course, the temperature information needs to be forwarded to the mainboard. The mainboard can read any information, such as target temperature, current temperature, fan PWM speed and so on from the I2C interface at any time. So..... One more thing. You may wonder what the "Switch" in the schematics is for. It's basically the same circuit as the heater output, except a weaker mosfet is used. The function can be used to switch low-power components, such as a printhead LED, another fan, or an electromagnet (related to a feature of the upcoming Nemesis 3D printer).
  21. As some of you may know, I'm working on a big step forward in 3D printer electronics. Today I'm releasing the first piece of the cake: The printhead controller! https://www.youmagine.com/designs/printhead-controller Note that this design is not finished yet, but it is at a state where I want to go public and get you guys involved. So... What does it do, and why? Simply put - I'm outsourcing the printhead functions (temperature, heater and fan control) directly into the printhead, where they belong. The electronics mainboard will only have to send commands to the printhead like "put the nozzle temperature to 210°C, and set fan speed to 50%", instead of having to compute and control these functions by itself. The mainboard can then concentrate on other tasks, and leave the printhead to itself. This becomes especially interesting when you want to control 5 printheads, or if you have a modular printer which may have even more than 5 different toolheads. As another goodie - the amount of wiring between mainboard and printhead is reduced to 5 wires (or even 4 if you use a 12V heater cartridge). And, more importantly, the noise on this wiring is reduced. There is no more sensitive temperature signal going all the way in parallel to the motor and fan wiring, reducing signal noise and increasing temperature sensing accuracy. -- have to get back to work, will continue this soon -- /edit: Accidentally deleted the topic o.O
  22. Already know how to power four extruders? I've been working on the electronics platform to do this for quite some time now /edit: I thought about using some relays to switch between different motors on one stepper driver. But there are a few problems with that. For one, you'll lose control over the disconnected stepper motor (maybe lose tension on the filament in the process...). This might be overcome by shorting the coils of disconnected motors together. But I doubt that would work for longer periods of time. My conclusion was that I want an actual 8-driver electronics platform (for 5 extruders). You can expect news from that project soon. Schematics are pretty much done, and I'm working on completing the PCB layout now.
  23. Can't reproduce your issue @cloakfiend. Scrolling does behave somewhat strange. Feels like it's lagging / stuttering. But it doesn't jump. Using Win7 pro 64, FF (also tested with IE - no jumping)
  24. This is why SSRs are just plain bad If you have a soldering iron, you could take a look at my Heated bed MosFET relay hack. This one can handle more than 10A without needing a heatsink. Why? Because it uses a high performance MosFET in contrary to the cheap stuff they put in these SSRs. Also, my hack lacks any kind of safeties. But as you can see on your part, these don't work anyways If you use the hack, just make sure you wire it up EXACTLY like shown in the schematics. You put your SSR in the positive path (between 12V and the heatbed), and not the negative path (between the heatbed and GND). You should always put the switch / relay / SSR in the negative path if possible. A MosFET like in my hack will not work in the positive path, while other parts might work fine. /edit: Lol, I only read "May 13"... /edit2: By the way, this Fotek relay is pretty much the same circuit as my hack. Just with cheap-ass components...
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