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jonnybischof

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Everything posted by jonnybischof

  1. So... It seems in Cura 14.01 there has been a lot of improvement done with brim. Small holes don't get brim anymore, and medium holes don't get closed all the way by the brim anymore. I like that very much, good work Daid! However... (darn :??? I frequently have problems with small holes (typically M3 holes for screws) on the bottom layer. The small circles usually don't stick well and get dragged around, messing up the entire first layer (and rendering the part useless or at least ugly in the process). I'm currently working around that by not drawing these holes all the way through the
  2. Still pretty good for a non-ideal-for-3D-printing model
  3. Well here's another one of my rather petty prints... Still I wanted to share it because I'm pretty proud of my printer right now Sander showed a 20 microns print earlier, so I wanted to check that out for myself. I opted for 30 microns because the print would have taken ridiculously long if I had gone even further down. Note that this is a standard Original Ultimaker, except that it has a HBP. But everything else is 100% vanilla UM1. It's only a small part, 42x18x4mm, but this one took 2 hours of printing already... I was primarily interested in how the chamfers would look, and I
  4. Maybe that'll work better with a 3Doodler (Hope I'll get mine soon...) /edit Just to stay on-topic: my latest print: Nothing fancy I'm afraid, but still a big step for my UM1: This is the first part that I've printed more or less successfully with my new Basalt HBP. I printed it directly on the bed, no tape, no glue or anything. Just the bare HBP @ 52°C. The bed temperature needs to be adjusted very carefully, or the plastic either won't stick if it's too cold, or will warp right off the bed if it's too warm. I might get a problem with that when printing large parts because there's ra
  5. Interesting... I actually didn't try using the SD card in the printer, just tried to format it. Didn't even think about just trying
  6. If you buy a SDHC card and format only a 2GB FAT-32 partition, it might work. I'm not sure though as SDHC has substantial differences compared to standard SD. Don't forget that the Ulticontroller is nowhere near a PC, it's just a small 8-bit MCU... I could try that, got a 32GB card lying around. If I don't forget about it, I'll report back /edit: tried it, but it seems Win7 can't format an SD card with custom partition sizes... The necessary settings are not available :( Maybe it works with some advanced disk tools, but I don't have any... It's best to just buy a standard 2GB SD card, n
  7. I wondered myself whether this is a bug or a feature? Imho this really sucks. The inside skirt makes no sense at all but always messes up the first layer. Using retraction for the first layer however might be problematic. I imagine that the filament wouldn't stick well after having been taken off the platform for retraction and put back. However if there were no inside skirt, there would already be considerably less of a mess on the first layer. I guess we have to live with what's left, usually it wasn't too bad until recently when the inside skirt came. Oh, and also I think the inside bri
  8. Awesome!! Is that a toothbrush? Very curious about the final results, too..
  9. I like the Swiss national emblem Well done!
  10. Not bad What filament is this? I've had excellent adhesion with the "Raven Super Premium PLA" from qu-bd.com. Just have to print hot enough so that the material goes from matte to shiny. But that only works for larger parts, if you put layers on top of each other too quickly, it all melts up :(
  11. I almost fainted when I took this one out of the printer Had to crack away some of the rolling "tons" from the outer shell, but then after inserting the cage the thing spun freely with almost no friction o.O. And it only took two tries for this to work Stability is not bad: it doesn't come apart even if you apply axial force, but it rattles quite a bit. I'll definetly improve on that. The first version had just about NO play in any direction. But it also took considerable force to turn it... That being said, I printed this on a 100% vanilla UM1. Up to this point, I have not done any modi
  12. I don't see how this would improve things. One thing that might improve the overall stability/accuracy, is adding rods with linear bearings in the front of the machine. This would increase the rigidity of the Z-stage. I think the reason why this is not implemented in the UM1 by default is that it is simply not necessary (the UM1 already prints pretty well in standard configuration). But it might improve things a little. Also, it might help with particularly heavy build plates like basalt or massive aluminum heatbeds.
  13. You mean you put in the flex coupler and the leadscrew stops wobbling? I have the problem that, when I print really high prints (which I don't to because of the problem), the slider block actually collides with the leadscrew because the screw leans forward that much. I noticed that while assembling the UM, when I moved the Z-stage by hand...
  14. Hi Thanks for the info on STL. I decided to start with Sketchup but I guess this one won't be enough to make actual construction designs... Maybe when I got the hang of Sketchup (which is ridiculously easy to understand) I'll take another look at Creo. Right now I just hate it But I guess it's manageable if your PC mouse survives the learning curve and it's annoyances... :-P
  15. Can you say anything about the export functions of the free version (Creo Elements Direct Modeling Express 4.0) ? I mean can you export to STL and print stuff without any problems? I just downloaded it but have never really used a 3D CAD program (they're like hokus-pokus to me o.O). I sure know that I don't want to go through the trouble of learning the annoying haptics of that program just to find that I can't export to a usable format /edit: OMG i HATE it already... It's friggin impossible to create a symmetrical lego block?!?!? It's so stupid! Is there a free version of the parametric C
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