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jonnybischof

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Everything posted by jonnybischof

  1. You're right about the fan - Calculating the equivalent resistance from the nominal values (12 V, 0.15 A) doesn't give you any precise results. Well, now that you have the fan running, you can re-calculate the fan's actual equivalent resistance. We have 19.44 V - 14.5 V = 4.94 V on the resistor. 4.94 V / 50.1 Ohms = 98.6 mA current. 14.5 V / 98.6 mA = 147 Ohms for the fan. That means the fan actually draws less current than nominal. This is not unusual, simple manufacturing process thingy. The difference is higher than I'd have anticipated, but then again it's not an expensive, high quali
  2. I have never printed Nylon myself, so I can't speak out of any personal experience but just repeat what I read online: E3D-online had a printing plate specifically for printing Nylon. I bought one some time ago (but never used it to date o.O) and just wanted to look it up, but it's gone from their shop... The material is called "Garolite", "Tufnol" or "Bakelite" (different brand names I believe). You could use that instead of the UM2's glass printing plate, or mount it on an Ultimaker Original with some (large) foldback clips. I read other reports saying that using rafts helps a lot, too.
  3. Picking up an idea from here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/11571-step-by-step-installation-of-silentstepstick-drivers-on-umo?page=5#reply-108156 If you didn't follow the linked discussion: The Trinamic TMC2130 stepper motor driver has a feature called StallGuard2 which detects when the motor stalls, and reports that to the controller. For now, these drivers aren't available as a ready kit for 3D printers (Note, the Silent StepSticks use the TMC2100 which doesn't have the SG2 feature), and there is no firmware support for the feature. But that could both be arranged, if the
  4. The GCode file contains layer information. Marlin would "simply" need to read through the full gcode file before starting the print, in order to find the amount of layers. Then, it would have to read the "layer: xx" information instead of just skipping it (because it's a comment line). It's not as easy as in "you can write that code in 5 minutes" (programming always takes it's time..), but should be doable without problems.
  5. Seriously, fix the problems when writing long posts! Current FF on Win7pro 64bit. As soon as a reply has a certain amount of lines, it scrolls up everytime you hit a key, away from the reply box. This means you have to write blid, or use an external editor to write posts. I have to cut & paste my texts into notepad in order to be able to write anything. When I want to insert a picture or link, I need to cut & paste into the form, add the link, then cut & paste back into notepad. This sucks big time! There is no way I'll be here long if these issues aren't fixed. /edit: Also,
  6. You're welcome I can't reproduce your 1.55W, though... You're using: 19.5 V UMO power supply 12 V, 0.15 A fan 90 Ohms resistor right? So, the "equivalent resistor" for your fan is 12V / 0.15 A = 80 Ohms. Total resistance: 80 + 90 = 170 Ohms 19.5 V / 170 Ohms = 0.115 A effective current. Resistor's portion: 90 Ohms * 0.115 A = 10.3 V 10.3 V * 0.115 A = 1.19 W Fan's portion: 80 Ohms * 0.115 A = 9.2 V a) Your fan is underpowered in this situation. It might suffice to cool the E3D, but it's not an ideal solution b) 1.2W is definitely too much load for a 0.6W rated resistor. It wil
  7. I'd just use the resistor - for a small fan (12V, less than 70 mA or 0.84W) this is no problem, and you don't lose much energy. If you have a larger fan with more than 1W power rating, then you should either take a fat (1W+) resistor, or use a DC/DC voltage converter. Example for small fan: 12 V fan, 40 mA (0.5W power rating) Input voltage: 19.5 V (UMO power supply) So, you want the resistor to take away 19.5 - 12 = 7.5 V from the fan, at 40 mA. That means you need a 7.5 V / 40 mA = 187.5 Ohms resistor. Nearest Preferred E-series value: 180 Ohms. Resistor's power rating: 7.5 V * 40 mA
  8. Looks great indeed! How did you align the aluminum extrusions? I've put together a similar frame myself, but had a lot of trouble getting "almost" perfect 90° angles everywhere... Is the frame rigid? The pieces you used to hold the extrusions together seem very small (side-note: I like my overkill-tank-like-stainless-steel-constructions).
  9. That's why I'm going for the TMC260, which has SG2, too. StealthChop is useless for 3D printers. dcStep seems interesting, though. The IC package is also very interesting (low-resistance QFN with large exposed die pad instead of qfp with only the "legs" as electrical contacts). Well, I'm still in the design phase for my next project, maybe I'll actually switch drivers The TMC2130 is not suitable for a Marlin platform, though. There's no headroom for integrating it's advanced features.. /edit: The new TMC2130 costs almost double as much as the TMC2100... Not much of a difference to the TM
  10. The problem with mechanical limit switches is, you can't travel beyond the switches anyways - you'd run into the switch.
  11. Afaik the UM2 avoids this problem by lowering the platform all the way down once the print is finished. I don't have one myself, but I remember seeing this in videos. I suppose this is part of the "End-GCode" for the Ultimaker 2 Cura profile.
  12. I'm using only the analog current control (mechanical potentiometer). I just didn't want to bother implementing a digital potentiometer, because these potentiometers aren't linear and the output voltage would need to be checked (by feeding it back to the Arduino's ADC). Most of all, I don't want to have to start tinkering with Marlin because I'll soon start working on a successor to the Marlin firmware / Arduino platform. If I understand that function correctly, the Index signal is only an output from the indexer circuit for the user to be able to track its position. I don't think that a
  13. PLEEEEAASE do away with the square and oddly colored smileys. They's fugly :( I want my classic smileys back ;(
  14. A little update from my side: Been very busy putting my own TMC2100 Marlin platform together the last few days. I didn't have much time to test it yet, but I seem to have a few problems for now. As you can see, my prototype gives me full access to all 7 CFG pins, with the possibility to tie them high, low or leave them floating. It will probably turn out that most of these settings are unnecessary, but that's what I want to find out with the prototype.. While I can get my motors to turn, they whine a lot as soon as they're not moving anymore, and the drivers get quite hot (around 60°C m
  15. You (Team Ultimaker, @SandervG) should get in touch with @foehnsturm about that dual extrusion problem. He's shown a brilliant solution using a toolhead interchange system instead of making an actual dual-extruder hotend. Users can print the essential parts themselves, but you could offer a kit for the hotend, hardware and stuff that is needed. And integration into Cura would be very sweet
  16. Ok, that sounds like the Ulticontroller is actually faulty. If the printer can print fine via USB connection, then I suppose you contact Ultimaker support and ask for a replacement. Add a link to this topic in the ticket to speed things up a bit.
  17. -- deleted -- Not used to the new forum yet o.O
  18. I suppose you're talking about an UM-Original, not a UM2? In your video, the display fails after you started heating the extruder. Does the display also fail if you don't start heating the extruder? (For example, just browse through some menus for some time, but don't start heating up) Maybe the display fails when you push the button a little harder than necessary? (could be a slack joint) When you disconnect the UltiController, can you print via USB connection without any problems? When you installed the new (default) firmware from Cura, did you use the "Ultimaker Original" (not "Ultimak
  19. Hi @lars86, I had to make several changes to the one I last showed in this topic. Using multiple linear bearings in a row turned out to be a bad idea - very difficult to get them aligned properly. This is why I switched to Misumi's LHSSL12 linear bearing with pillow block. I think there is a newer sketch in my Ultimaker Black Edition thread showing this solution, which works pretty well so far. The metal construction is very stiff and moves well along the z-axis. I'm not 100% happy with how the leadscrew is mounted, but I guess it works alright..
  20. Und da hapert es schon bei vielen Normalsterblichen
  21. It could work - as long as you don't put the control switch to reverse mode. That will probably damage the fan. And you can't control it through the UMO fan output anymore because most control inputs of such drivers won't allow 19V input.
  22. This fan still draws around 10 times as much current as a usual fan - That means much higher inductive load and higher voltage spikes on PWM control. NPN transistor? Not a good idea... You could try flattening out that PWM by adding an RC lowpass filter / tank after the PWM output stage. It might take some tinkering with different values, but it's possible to come pretty close to a regulated DC voltage with that trick. I'll try it out myself once I get to install my crossflow fan. But there's too much other stuff to tend to atm :(
  23. In the spirit of the Ultimaker concept: If it doesn't produce a good quality output - don't do it. Retraction in a Bowden-fed printer is useful to reduce oozing for the short time it takes the printhead to travel to a new position. After that, you have to continue printing or the nozzle will start to ooze. That is not useful for a dual-extrusion setup imho - because a toolhead might be parked for a long time until it's brought to use. A very good flow control is necessary in order to produce usable results. I'd even consider making a script that lowers nozzle temperature when toolheads are
  24. Tangles are actually a problem, depending on how you use the filament. If you use a holder for coiled filament you shouldn't have any problems. I'm in the process of making a holder specifically aimed at solving these problems once and for all. Might take some more days though as I'm very busy atm...
  25. The bottomline is simple - Buy ONLY high quality 3D printing filament! - Sure you can get cheap stuff for half the price. But the trouble is never, ever, ever, ever worth it All consumer grade 3D printers are made for either 1.75mm or 2.85mm filament (the latter is generally referred to as 3mm). 3.00mm filament doesn't have ANYTHING to do with 3D printers, instead that's what is used in plastic welding. These filaments usually also don't need to be manufactured to a very high diameter tolerance. Because it doesn't matter that much in plastic welding. But it does matter in 3D printing. Any d
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