jonnybischof

Cyanacrilate glue degrades with time. It can be preserved longer if you store it in the fridge (not deep-freeze, just ~ +5°C). But DO NOT just put it in your fridge as the glue generates toxic (or at least unhealthy) fumes! Either have a dedicated fridge (that's what the professionals do), or put the glue into an airtight container. I like the normal UHU superglue that comes in three very little tubes instead of one large tube. This also helps preserve the glue longer.

I'm still saying it's a simple quality issue that the metal case of the LCD module is pressing too hard on the LCD screen. I've had that spot on my UC since the beginning, but it doesn't bother me much...

A normal cyanacrilate superglue should work fine. With printed PLA parts I usually take quite a lot of superglue since it can dissipate into the PLA (similar to wood). Another (better) possibility is to use two-component epoxy glue (for example Araldite). This stuff pretty much glues anything to everything - forever.

Ah, true. Didn't think about that I won't be using Marlin, but adding a few more stepper drivers to an FPGA isn't a problem (except that it's expensive..).

True - the Pololu design ist just bad. That's why the drivers burn in the first place. There is also the possibility of an ESD event damaging the drivers. With simple measures this can be prevented, too. I opted for a modular design with separate stepper drivers because dividing up the PCBs makes them cheaper. One large 4-layer PCB is EXPENSIVE :-/

You have to cool the entire heatsink of the E3D hotend or it will clog. It looks like the bottom part of your E3D heatsink is not cooled by the fan. If the heatsink gets warm, then the hotend doesn't work correctly. Also, the hotend fan must be on (full speed) all of the time, never connect it to the print cooling PWM output. Fyi, that's what the E3D guys say - I haven't tested the E3D myself yet. About the "more than two" toolheads thought: H-Bot is exactly the (only) way to go I didn't realize the problem with the UM gantry and my idea at first, but that's because I was already planning to use this with an H-Bot... The problem with an H-bot is that it's very difficult to "hack" one together and get it to work properly. You need a very good quality build in order to get it to move accurately and without distortions. Technically, you don't even need more than one extruder motor driver - just need to be able to route the driver to different motors. That is as long as you don't need to do anything with the idle extruders (like prime them before they're used). So yes - new (or adjusted) firmware is needed. This is the part where I'll need some time o.O

Dudes, this design is worth millions! Make sure you put a license on it before takerbot does!! Anyone else thinking electromagnets? Easy to handle, and maybe the magnets can even be fabbed with good results... If there's enough space in the printer, one can easily combine 3 - 5 extruders which would open up whole new possibilities that no SLS printer can ever do

By the way, the cfg pins recognise three states, not just one! "Open" is a state, too. If you want to set one of the cfg pins to GND, then you have to tie it to GND. Watterott was really fast to restock on the silent stepsticks... The chips only just released last week... I got mine last thursday, no chance to put my boards together yet. Maybe today or tomorrow...

The reason why your PSU still shuts down is because you can't actually reduce the current of your heaters. You can only limit the maximum PWM duty cycle which results in a certain limited average current. But when the heater is on, it just draws full current. And when both heaters are on at the same time, it crashes. So - yes you're correct. While the heating element is very slow to react to current, it only cares about the average current flow. This average current generated with the PWM is nice and all, but the electronics are much more sensitive to these high instant currents... I'm a bit surprised that UM decided to leave such little headroom when they selected their power supply... /edit: Don't know about UM's PT100. Not all PT100 are suitable for high temperatures, which probably means the part they took isn't suitable for more than 300°C (because they don't need it to be).

No dual extruders for now - only makes the board unnecessarily big. I didn't want to have to mess with Marlin at all, that's why I didn't change any features. My shield uses the exact same configuration as the UMO electronics, so you can use the Ultimaker standard firmware.

Aaah, ok that would make sense. It's too early in a monday morning for that The question is, "what is that connector meant for, and made for?". If there isn't supposed to be a high current (650 mA is a high current!) going out of that connector, then you shouldn't use it. Better to tap the power supply directly because from there you can draw high currents. /edit: board fan connector.. It's a question of board trace width. Usually, a fan doesn't draw more than 70 mA which is about 10 times less than our crossflow fan. So it's quite possible that this connection isn't suitable for drawing 650 mA. /edit: Took a quick look at that connector. You mean J19, located on the top left, very close to the supply input connector? This connector would work. Very short connection to the supply input. But it's 24V constant so you'd need to regulate the fan somehow.

I don't understand your first part... What connector do you want to use? You could use a 24V to 12V DC/DC converter (1A rating minimum!) and hook up the crossflow fan through this. But that would give you a fixed 12VDC voltage on the crossflow fan, which will probably be waaaay too much cooling. If you use an adjustable switching regulator from 24V down to whatever the fan will take, then I can guarantee you that the regulator will overheat. (Except if it's a switching regulator, not a linear regulator). The best solution would be to use a MosFET instead of a bipolar transistor on that fan output. I have no idea why anyone is still using bipolar transistors these days... Why not take vacuum tube amps if we're at it?

o.O Why don't you just use a PT100 sensor with the Ultimainboard V2? There are PT100's that go up to 500°C for continuous operation... PT100's are pretty much the best temperature sensors for this application. Easy to use, and very good accuracy. Plus, the Ultimainboard 2.1 is one of the best Marlin platforms on the market... (While the old UMO electronics are the opposite ) Example PT100 sensor: http://www.mouser.ch/ProductDetail/Heraeus-Sensor-Technology/32208548/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMunegBHAOsZDxa9NeBQvzc30ZVQYpf%2FJfSZRksT0sBR9Q%3D%3D (Edit: http://www.mouser.compart number if the link doesn't work: 956-32208548) Actually my first hit on Mouser's search. You might find a better one http://www.mouser.ch/Alle-Hersteller/Sensors/Temperature-Sensors/_/N-7gz50Z0Zscv7?Keyword=pt100&FS=True&Ns=Pricing%7C0. /edit: With a bit of searching, you might even find an encapsulated one just like E3D's original NTC. Mounting that one would be easier than the one I linked above.

Sorry, didn't see your reply earlier o.O I'm replacing the UMO electronics board and the pololu steppers. The Arduino Mega2560 is re-used. I'm also replacing the connectors, but the replacements are very easy to use (just push the wires into the housing, without stripping the insulation, crimping or soldering). The reason is that the UMO electronics just suck - and the pololu compatible TMC2100 drivers don't give access to the various config options. The UMO power supply brick can be reused or replaced - depends on whether or not you want to have a heated bed or not. Everything else stays the same, function-wise. The (empty) boards should arrive tomorrow, or on monday. I'm busy with an e-nable project at the moment but will put the prototype together asap. /almost forgot: The TMC2100's are not yet available (march 27th according to digi-key) which means the drivers will have to wait a few more days anyways.

Ooh the chaos! :-| You missed an endless and pointless discussion yesterday..

You should be able to get most SMD parts off the board using solder wick (that's the flat copper wire used to suck up excess solder from the joints). I usually just put the soldering iron to the joint, then first add some more solder (!) before wicking it off again. Try getting the parts off one leg after another. It's possible to rip away the pad with the component, but it's worth a try before you just throw it away... If you're good with the Dremel, you can also cut the part off the board. Just don't hit the part too hard or you'll rip it away along with the pads. Instead take it apart like if you were sanding it away. Make sure never to hit the board itself. The component's remains can easily be wicked off.

Good advice! I completely forgot to mention that... The QG30 draws over 600 mA which is WAY too much for the UMO electronics to handle. The standard fan is more like 50mA. I'm using custom electronics which are in the making right now.

Happy to help! Did it work? I'll be at the fablab tomorrow /edit: Just stumbled upon that thread: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/10368-limit-switch-curved/

True, I would use an UMO with E3D hotend (WHICH I STILL HAVEN'T INSTALLED, DAMMIT!!!!!)

Sounds interesting, do you know where to get it? /edit: ok, E3D sells it. Quite expensive - around the price range of top-line PLA filaments (Diamond Age, Faberdashery). I'd be most interested in a comparison to XT as this sounds to be a direct competitor...

As long as the switch can be actuated (if the UM2 uses similar ones than the UMO, you should hear a loud "click" when they actuate), it's not important if the metal tab is perfectly flat or not. But by deforming it, you will change the limit position. Maybe the switch's limit is now "behind" the mechanical limit, making it impossible for the machine to reach it? Greetings from Zurich

The metal actuators can usually flitter a bit because they sit loosely in their hinge. Did you try shutting the machine down, then moving the printhead away from the home position a few centimeters by hand, and then restarting? ------- I've heard of bent actuators causing the limit switches to malfunction. If that's the case, you can just bend the metal actuator back (meaning away from the switch housing) until it's more or less flat again. You might have to calibrate the switch's position after that. From what the printer is doing, it seems it can't detect the limit switch. That means either the connection is broken at some point (most likely the cable close to the connector / switch), or the printhead can't reach the limit switch (because it's bent, or slipped out of position), or the limit switch is actually broken internally (which is very unlikely). If you have a Multimeter, you can check the connection by setting it to "buzzer" mode (continuity checker? - Durchgangsprüfer...) then disconnect the cable from the mainboard, connect the Multimeter to the contacts at the connector, and then pushing the switch manually. If the multimeter beeps - the connection and the switch internals are ok. Then it's most likely that the switch slipped or the actuator tab is deformed. /edit: When checking the cable with the multimeter, try moving / bending the cable a little bit. That way you can detect slack joints that may only break the connection in certain positions.

Well ... I'm still building that damn thing The QG is a very good choice - the size is pretty much exactly the same as the build platform (198mm width vs. 204mm of the UMO), and the build quality is great (Papst...). I'm still working on my printer's gantry, but have some ideas about how to integrate the crossflow fan optimally. But none of it has made it into reality just yet. As for the housing: My design is still very crude in that aspect - need to get the main features working first before moving on to the details.

Time for an update! I redesigned the switching regulators because TI didn't care about my problems. The prototype design is now finished and all the parts are ordered. The TMC2100 will be released March 27, which is also when the rest of the parts and my ordered PCBs should arrive. So I should get a prototype ready in early April. The TMC2100 launch also means that the step-sticks might be re-available in April. I haven't heard or inquired about that - just an assumption. Personally, I don't like the stepstick design - there's simply not enough PCB space for cooling. I suppose my variant will not need any forced air cooling (but that remains to be tested). Here's a preview render of my Arduino shield: I know, looks a bit strange, but that's how Altium's 3D view looks like. Sadly, it's not possible to modify the colors of STEP models in Altium. Top row + right side: 4x Stepper motor connections for my TMC2100 driver board. Closeby are jumper selectors to set all 7 CFG pins. Marlin's enable (I don't know if it's even used) works, as does the CFG6 selector (same pin). A MosFET is used to tie CFG6 low (disable stepper), but leave the CFG6 setting intact when the stepper is enabled. Left: DC jack power input (same as UMO electronics / PSU). Just next to it is a screw terminal socket for industrial power supplies. Right next to that is the heatbed connector, and in the lower left corner the extruder output. Both are switched by highly efficient PSMN4R0-30YLDX MosFETs (4 mOhms, 30V). There's also some red LEDs to indicate when a heater is on. In the center there's the two DC/DC switching regulators. One for 12V which is used to power the Arduino and the 3 fan outputs (cyan connectors to the lower left). The fans (1 PWM, 2 hardwired) can be run from 12V or the PSU input voltage, selectable individually by a jumper. The other regulator creates a clean 5V supply which is used for the motors and temperature sensors. This improves the TMC2100's current scaling quality and reduces power dissipation, because the TMC2100's internal 5V regulator is bypassed. The temperature sensors also benefit from a clean supply. Then there's the 6 limit-switch inputs, and three temperature inputs. The 4.7k resistor can be disconnected with a jumper (for termocouple sensors). UltiPanel connections are in the bottom right corner. Same as UMO electronics... I'll release the documentation once the prototype is up and running.

https://www.simplify3d.com/support/tutorials/rafts-skirts-and-brims/ Diese Seite beschreibt Brim recht gut. Vermutlich ist das bei den Quick-settings aktiviert - dürfte genau das sein, was du beschreibst. Wie gesagt - ich kenne die Quick settings nicht... Wenn der Brim (übersetzt: "Krempe" (Hutrand)) ca. 1-2cm breit ist, dann dürfte das ausreichen. Mittlerweile dürfte der Druck ja abgeschlossen sein - dann weisst du, ob es geklappt hat oder nicht