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thorleif-jacobsen

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  1. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XLM6LUU&_nkw=LM6LUU&_sacat=0 Looks like gold. Thanks a lot!
  2. Hi, since i bought this kit i had a linear bearing which was bad. I've never found an good replacement. Anyone know where i can find theese? The one i am speaking about are the one in the extruder. See here: http://cl.ly/Xuhm
  3. I've been struggeling with a limit switch and a servo myself. Getting really tired of not getting my UM working with this. So any progress with alternative sensors I'm totally in with! Got a alu hotbed + 3mm glass on top. *sub*
  4. Hello I was up all night and fixed it. What I've done is make my own fork of Marlin. Because the original had a lot of compiling errors and a hard interface. https://github.com/Toffe87/Marlin This one has: G28 finds endstops in center. G29 is upgraded with a enchanted G29 which does up to 3x3 check. ( http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.php?3105-Auto_Bed_Leveling-Enhanced-G29-command/page27%20) G28 Z0 X0 is required before G29 to start at home position! 100k thermistor for hotbed, 1x hotend Menu for changin the z-probe settings (height, servo positions e.t.c) (https://github.com/Bevaz/
  5. I have 1mm on .2 layer height. I've c hanged the Esteps/mm to 843 instead og 836 or whats the original and it filled up a little better now. I'll see on the bigger print tomorrow. Just tested on 1x1x1cm cubes Gn!
  6. Hello. I've rebuild the firmware and got it all working. G28 makes an calibration from the center. G28 X0 Y0 Z0 makes an calibration from the X0 Y0. This works flawlessly! Really amazing, ever how much i press on the bed it levels at 0,0mm above bed. BUT - There is always a BUT! G29 which is configured for 3x3 point leveling finds a difference on 0.24-0.34 on my leveling. This is all good! After that i do G1 X0 Y0 and get to endstops again. Now, after the G29 if i go Z0 it goes 3-4mm longer than the G28 command did! So its off by a few mm. Tried a lot of different setups and this hav
  7. I'm using Acetone to clean, 70degrees 220 hotend and it works flawlessly! Just an update!
  8. UM1. I was told that 220 was "waay" too much. It should be 190 on pla.. I have always used 220. So i went with 210 to compensate a little for what the persons was saying. I was installing the Z-probe now and i saw that the rods are not even. There was around 2mm difference on the x and y rods blocks on each side i fixed that while i was at it. Gonna try the z-probe stuff now but any tip on fixing the gapped stripes if it still there?
  9. Update: Its the same if i'm using 100%, 70%, 50% or 30% on a 10x10cube. Small difference in the size of the strings but still a space to see trough. :sad: Looked at it with powerfull light, the cube actually was more filled on 30%, nearly 100% But this must be fixable? I cant run it at 30% on each print, i usually do 75. (Each % is out of 100mm/s so 70% is 70mms)
  10. Hi. Struggeling still with a problem. At 0.2mm i get a "stringy" top on stuff. The bottom layer is _prefect_ its on a 70deg bed so its flat and glossy. But the rest of the layers are a little off. I can see thru them? See image: http://cl.ly/XNd0 Thats a big gap i feel :( What can this bee? I've tightenen the belts on both axis and installed a belt tensioner on all 4 belts. There must be something I'm missing (?) I've changed the E-steps on extruder to 850 to get a perfect 100mm and the filament diameter is 2.8. 210 degrees on that one, i've tried 200 and 190. 190 clogs really easy 200 g
  11. Any link to this upgrade? I'm so f** tired of leveling the bed every single print i do. After 1 successfull print i can print 1-2-3 more then i have to relevel cuz it starts dragging the pla..
  12. Have someone maybe thought about having a distance measurement tool hooked up to the arduino making a script to run to the 3 - 4 points of adjusting and blink a light when you have adjusted the height "perfect"? So when you level it and hit that perfect point it lights up and you do the next? This way you get a measurable feedback
  13. Hello! I just got a HEATED BED kit to hook up to my ultimaker. I've installed a custom firmware, installed a 4.7k pull up resistor and set it up. Everything seems to be working from hardware part (The kit i bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heated-Bed-Kit-for-Ultimaker-Reprap-3d-Printers-MK2-PCB-Aluminium-plate-/161157442118?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2585bb6a46 ) It heats fine, goes up to a 100c and down to 0 on the UltiController. So i start to print on a glass plate, and it seem to be "dragging" the pla, when it starts extruding the edges it dosent strick so it's beeing ripped up
  14. Hello! I just got a PLA kit to hook up to my ultimaker. I've installed a custom firmware, installed a 4.7k pull up resistor and set it up. Everything seems to be working from hardware part (The kit i bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heated-Bed-Kit-for-Ultimaker-Reprap-3d-Printers-MK2-PCB-Aluminium-plate-/161157442118?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2585bb6a46 ) It heats fine, goes up to a 100c and down to 0 on the UltiController. So i start to print on a glass plate, and it seem to be "dragging" the pla, when it starts extruding the edges it dosent strick so it's beeing ripped up agains
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