thorleif-jacobsen

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XLM6LUU&_nkw=LM6LUU&_sacat=0 Looks like gold. Thanks a lot!

Hi, since i bought this kit i had a linear bearing which was bad. I've never found an good replacement. Anyone know where i can find theese? The one i am speaking about are the one in the extruder. See here: http://cl.ly/Xuhm

I've been struggeling with a limit switch and a servo myself. Getting really tired of not getting my UM working with this. So any progress with alternative sensors I'm totally in with! Got a alu hotbed + 3mm glass on top. *sub*

Hello I was up all night and fixed it. What I've done is make my own fork of Marlin. Because the original had a lot of compiling errors and a hard interface. https://github.com/Toffe87/Marlin This one has: G28 finds endstops in center. G29 is upgraded with a enchanted G29 which does up to 3x3 check. ( http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.php?3105-Auto_Bed_Leveling-Enhanced-G29-command/page27%20) G28 Z0 X0 is required before G29 to start at home position! 100k thermistor for hotbed, 1x hotend Menu for changin the z-probe settings (height, servo positions e.t.c) (https://github.com/Bevaz/Marlin/tree/Auto_level_2.00) Currently its not tested with the menu addon since its printed. The menu was fetched from

I have 1mm on .2 layer height. I've c hanged the Esteps/mm to 843 instead og 836 or whats the original and it filled up a little better now. I'll see on the bigger print tomorrow. Just tested on 1x1x1cm cubes Gn!

Hello. I've rebuild the firmware and got it all working. G28 makes an calibration from the center. G28 X0 Y0 Z0 makes an calibration from the X0 Y0. This works flawlessly! Really amazing, ever how much i press on the bed it levels at 0,0mm above bed. BUT - There is always a BUT! G29 which is configured for 3x3 point leveling finds a difference on 0.24-0.34 on my leveling. This is all good! After that i do G1 X0 Y0 and get to endstops again. Now, after the G29 if i go Z0 it goes 3-4mm longer than the G28 command did! So its off by a few mm. Tried a lot of different setups and this have changed. Sometime its 3mm, some 5, some 4 some 3.5 (Checked by taking it down to Z5mm then go slowly down 0.1mm until its where "0" should be. So the G29 calibration "fucks up" everything? Any idea? Doing just a G28 gives a good calibration but that wont level it good all the way.

I'm using Acetone to clean, 70degrees 220 hotend and it works flawlessly! Just an update!

UM1. I was told that 220 was "waay" too much. It should be 190 on pla.. I have always used 220. So i went with 210 to compensate a little for what the persons was saying. I was installing the Z-probe now and i saw that the rods are not even. There was around 2mm difference on the x and y rods blocks on each side i fixed that while i was at it. Gonna try the z-probe stuff now but any tip on fixing the gapped stripes if it still there?

Update: Its the same if i'm using 100%, 70%, 50% or 30% on a 10x10cube. Small difference in the size of the strings but still a space to see trough. :sad: Looked at it with powerfull light, the cube actually was more filled on 30%, nearly 100% But this must be fixable? I cant run it at 30% on each print, i usually do 75. (Each % is out of 100mm/s so 70% is 70mms)

Hi. Struggeling still with a problem. At 0.2mm i get a "stringy" top on stuff. The bottom layer is _prefect_ its on a 70deg bed so its flat and glossy. But the rest of the layers are a little off. I can see thru them? See image: http://cl.ly/XNd0 Thats a big gap i feel :( What can this bee? I've tightenen the belts on both axis and installed a belt tensioner on all 4 belts. There must be something I'm missing (?) I've changed the E-steps on extruder to 850 to get a perfect 100mm and the filament diameter is 2.8. 210 degrees on that one, i've tried 200 and 190. 190 clogs really easy 200 gives a pretty shiny wall. Trying now at different speeds to see how it affects it :-/

Any link to this upgrade? I'm so f** tired of leveling the bed every single print i do. After 1 successfull print i can print 1-2-3 more then i have to relevel cuz it starts dragging the pla..

Have someone maybe thought about having a distance measurement tool hooked up to the arduino making a script to run to the 3 - 4 points of adjusting and blink a light when you have adjusted the height "perfect"? So when you level it and hit that perfect point it lights up and you do the next? This way you get a measurable feedback

Vid

Hello! I just got a HEATED BED kit to hook up to my ultimaker. I've installed a custom firmware, installed a 4.7k pull up resistor and set it up. Everything seems to be working from hardware part (The kit i bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heated-Bed-Kit-for-Ultimaker-Reprap-3d-Printers-MK2-PCB-Aluminium-plate-/161157442118?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2585bb6a46 ) It heats fine, goes up to a 100c and down to 0 on the UltiController. So i start to print on a glass plate, and it seem to be "dragging" the pla, when it starts extruding the edges it dosent strick so it's beeing ripped up against the extrution head. Well after adjusting the level of the bed a little i may be able to get it to extrude better but its kinda random if it sticks or not. When it does it prints a big flat line, looks really good. Then it starts on the inner wall, and making some holes starting from the biggest hole going down. (image of the printed object: http://link.jepb.no/Vdmj) When it lays the edge for the third circle from the bottom it dosent stick and is beeing kinda deformed. The nest 2 until the end is perfect. Then it starts filling the item from the bottom hole. It goes forward and backwards, after a few times it starts "lifting" the pla it already laid down just the last maybe 2 strokes.. and when it get to the thinnest place to fill it sticks the edge to the extruder and deforms that too! I had it working perfectly without a heated bed, but i was really struggeling to get objects OFF, i sometimes ripped the object in half when trying to get it off the bed. So thats why i want this heated bed. Yesterday i just "let it print" even if it was deformed. After it was done it cooled down and the items was loose So good improvement. But anyone got any tip for me? Ive tried: - Less distance from bed to extruder, making the line so thin its transparent. Not good. - More distance making the line more "square ish" not sticking - at all! - Middle thing making it flat on the bed, sticks good some places, less good other places. - Starting off with 85deg, no luck

Hello! I just got a PLA kit to hook up to my ultimaker. I've installed a custom firmware, installed a 4.7k pull up resistor and set it up. Everything seems to be working from hardware part (The kit i bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heated-Bed-Kit-for-Ultimaker-Reprap-3d-Printers-MK2-PCB-Aluminium-plate-/161157442118?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2585bb6a46 ) It heats fine, goes up to a 100c and down to 0 on the UltiController. So i start to print on a glass plate, and it seem to be "dragging" the pla, when it starts extruding the edges it dosent strick so it's beeing ripped up against the extrution head. Well after adjusting the level of the bed a little i may be able to get it to extrude better but its kinda random if it sticks or not. When it does it prints a big flat line, looks really good. Then it starts on the inner wall, and making some holes starting from the biggest hole going down. (image of the printed object: http://link.jepb.no/Vdmj) When it lays the edge for the third circle from the bottom it dosent stick and is beeing kinda deformed. The nest 2 until the end is perfect. Then it starts filling the item from the bottom hole. It goes forward and backwards, after a few times it starts "lifting" the pla it already laid down just the last maybe 2 strokes.. and when it get to the thinnest place to fill it sticks the edge to the extruder and deforms that too! I had it working perfectly without a heated bed, but i was really struggeling to get objects OFF, i sometimes ripped the object in half when trying to get it off the bed. So thats why i want this heated bed. Yesterday i just "let it print" even if it was deformed. After it was done it cooled down and the items was loose So good improvement. But anyone got any tip for me? Ive tried: - Less distance from bed to extruder, making the line so thin its transparent. Not good. - More distance making the line more "square ish" not sticking - at all! - Middle thing making it flat on the bed, sticks good some places, less good other places. - Starting off with 85deg, no luck

Ok, so i should be pretty happy with my setings now. Just waiting for a reply regarding the bearings It cant be anything else than that which is making the backlash. I can see it shake every time it goes on the front or left direction a little

So basiccly you can never get a 100% accurate print on any size on this?

Also, i got it calibrated on x and y using theese e-steps on M92 X79.57578142754516 Y79.57578142754516 Giving me a 20.03 mm measurement now How can i calibrate the Y axis? I'ts a little to high. 2.3mm right now.

Anyone got a ebay link? They seem a little special :-/ Looks like its both bearings who are off then since its only two for both axis.. And i dont really want to dismantle the whole thing right now :-P Finally printing a little "ok" http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Bearing_Pack

Hi i saw a error with the bearings, i lifted the left side and the axis iron rod which goes into that bearing is "moving" inside the bearing. This happends on FRONT and LEFT. RIGHT and BACK are steady as rocks. Cant even make it jiggle a bit.. So looks like its the bearings on both FRONT and LEFT. Can that explain it? As it hits the front left wall in speed it'll have a little free play going back that way. That might create the space and on the way back its staight as an arrow. I dont know if support will send me a new bearing since i already got a missing part sendt. Its proabably expensive for them to send new parts. :( I'll ask anyway right now. ASk them to check this thread Edit: I did the test by putting my finger under the top plate of the extruder on each sides and lift. Both front and left lifted a little. (moving the extruder hot end to 1mm from origin) the other side no movement)

Steps Pr E i dont know i calibrated them a little. I printet a 2x2x2 cube. The measurement is: Z = 22mm (Assuming Up and down) X = 19.7mm (Assuming left to right) Y =19.7mm (Assuming front to back) I saw how the layer thing worked, also setting the speed down to 20mm it helped a lot only on the two first layers. Perfect So i will add a 3-5 layer on each "importent" project. Getting there!! The images you sent link to the backlash seems more like a Y backslash since what i got is 2 perfect layers. Then a spacing, then 2 perfect layers. On this print you see the bottom is kinda seperated from the "walls" i kinda managed to rip off the walls and the internal stood there. Its not "hard" to split the wall and the content. Is this normal? bottom https://www.dropbox.com/s/lhnl6mpsdtg9tue/Photo%2019.07.13%2016%2027%2041.jpg top https://www.dropbox.com/s/imbjbv1pkpkd3ae/Photo%2019.07.13%2016%2026%2054.jpg as you see here i slowed it down to 25% on the tp layer then i speeded it up to 100% to finish it off just to see the difference..

Yeaah, i had 0.4 on bottom and top layer. I had removed the "bottom" layer from expert settings and i got this: http://link.jepb.no/QHVx So what you say, 0.4 should actually be more like 2mm thickness.. since i do 0.2layer height that is around 10 layers extra? But how can it make it "smooth" and level when there are things falling? Also after tightning the spring to 11.5 the plastic wheel inside pressing on the PLA is making a "unoiled door hinge sound". Is that normal? Sounds like it's gonna break the thing.. Edit: Fan is at 100% from layer 2 and up anyways EDIT 2: The spring was tighten to 10.5 instead.. 11.5 silent <3 little squeeking but not so irritating.

The warped thing looks really good. But there is on each layer a "play" (2, 1, 2, 1) its just covered by the layers.. So the problem is there. I tried to tilt the whole extrudion head from left to right. It does move a little when i wiggle it left to right. The bearings is the one "moving" looks like the bearings on the left and right side allows me a little play moving the heated top some about 1 mm or so.. I see that the inner ring of the bearing also is moving a little upwards as i force it and wiggle it. 3 questions: 1. Can that be the case? bad bearings? It's under a week old. Its been like this from the start. (Its only the left to right bearing. So that wont explain why the backlash goes both ways(?) 2. Printing a big thing with 20% infill makes a grid inside it. If i make a 10x10cm box with 20% infill it looks perfect until it tries to fill "in air".. Ofc the PLA starts falling down and making a ugly sight.. That will always be an uneven surface? How can i fix that? 3. This is not a question but a big thank you for all the help and tips. Alcohol i dont have in my house I'll try to buy tomorrow. Currently I'm pringint a gridded one (no bottom layer). Dont need the bottom layer for this Its at 10% after 40 minutes. Lot shorter time than 3% at 6 hours haha.

The prints which dident work: 1 layer just started the second layer. : http://link.jepb.no/QHmg 1 layer squished: http://link.jepb.no/QGzd

i think i had the bed too high since it kinda "squeshed" if thats a word the pla flat then two "borders" on each side. I took it so i could put a paper under it and move it so i felt it "skratched" the paper (ordinary a4 paper). Here is the sound from the belts: https://www.dropbox.com/s/0egwi0k93nkk4js/Video%2016.07.13%2020%2007%2015.mov?m Here are some prints: https://dl-web.dropbox.com/get/Camera%20Uploads/Photo%2016.07.13%2021%2007%2050.jpg?w=AACz2WjG2h4cuUaWj-rfot3CQZlp0nKdzYyYZyw9GfVhdQ https://dl-web.dropbox.com/get/Camera%20Uploads/Photo%2016.07.13%2020%2035%2038.jpg?w=AABw0gfYFk1u_LG7Qrlg-906rKiVJQDgM3f5DK0r0Ar2vA