Nicolinux

Hi, I thought that after the Ultimaker 2 has been unveiled, it would be helpful for the Ultimaker people to know what the community thinks about it. It might be superficial because it is based on photos and videos only, but it is a starting point. Here ist my feedback: 1. Heated bed This is the best improvement so far. I know that some people don't value a heated bed, but from experience with another printer and now with the Ultimaker 1 - it makes a huge difference. 2. New hotend I don't have enough exprience with the actual hotend to see its drawbacks (and I didn't experience clogging yet), but the new hotend looks good and if it is lighter, that'a always a plus. Also the dual fans should help with small and delicate prints. 3. New Extruder This thing looks awesome. Switching to "direct drive" was a good idea. And overall less pieces means less opportunities for something to break. 4. New case I think the new case looks slick while it retains the typical Ultimaker design. But I don't understand why it is not completely enclosed. I don't buy that Ultimaker went to these lenghts to add enclosed walls on the sides just to avoid air blowing through the printer and that could disrupt the heat flow. I guess that's important for ABS but then why not build a completely enclosed heat chamber? And by the way, I think the biggest benefit for the heated bed is layer adhesion and not fighting warping. 5. New mechanics Thats related to the new case too and something I don't like. They could have moved the motors outside and ditch the short belts. I don't understand why that has not been considered. Maybe for aesthetics reasons. But then they could have moved the x/y and extruder motors to the back side and add a nice cover. And since the back is already "wasted" by the big and bulky filament spool and the extruder - why increase the overall depth and enclose everything? If they truly wanted to make the printer more compact they could have increased the height and moved the filament spool underneath the printer. Moving the motors somewhere else is required if they ever decide to implement a heat chamber. So that could have been prepared aswell. 6. Z-Stage I don't know what changed exactly but the z-stage changed and that's definitely good. They seem to have switched to three-point bed leveling which is nice too. And finally some thumbscrews!! 7. New controller This one looks very slick. Reminds me a bit of Eva from the movie Wall-E - link I hope they changed the finky wheel that tends to skip steps when it is turned halfways. One odd thing is the angle of the display. I guess Ultimaker expects its users to have the printer on their desk at "eye level". The old UltiPanel was tilted upwards a bit which is better readable. 8. Printer for everyone Sorry but I don't buy that yet. I don't see Joe average downloading model x from YouMagine or Thingiverse and hit print. You need pliers, a digital calipper a screw driver and so on. Then you need to think about speed vs. quality, deal with blobs and under/over extrusion. There is no printer in this price range that can counter all that. Besides, I deffinitely don't want to sit next to the printer (even if it is quieter now) when printing with ABS... I think the "solution" Ultimaker tries to sell doesn't match their honest and charismatic image. Some customers will be disappointed when they find out that 3D printing isn't that easy. Better to keep it modest and true. Don't blur reality with Apple-like over polished presentation. That's it for now. I can't say anything about the other improvements until I see it live. Overall I like the new version and I'd like to have the printer like NOW! One final tought. Ultimaker - don't be sad about some negative feedback. Even negative feedback means people care about your product and that's always a good thing. You have created a great product and there's no way the haters will change that fact.

The extruder is not locked - this is intentional right? Also on one of the previous images the springs for the acrylic plate are at an odd angle. You could add a wide washer beneath the springs so it doesn't push on one of the nuts and possible slip up or down when the machine vibrates.

I printed it too, but it was too wide and didn't fit the holes on the acrylic plate... Sadly the maker doesn't provide the source file (and I was too lazy to create my own).

Ok, didn't know about AMF. I will look that up. Thanks for supporting it then. I think it will be one of the great strenghts of YouMagine if this takes off.

I get that - that's easy. But flow does also influence the later layers. So increasing the flow would lead to higher pressure and I don't know if that's what I want. I mean, I can imagine that changing the flow is useful, but I didn't have an opportunity to try it and see improvements in my prints.

Very nice. I followed your advice and printed one of my favorite models (Cuddling Owls) very very slowly: The big ones at 40mm/s with 190° and the little buggers at 20mm/s with 185°. They came out beautifully!

I have a question. Why are the sides of the new machine closed? If you wanted to create a heat chamber you'd need to take the motors out and enclose all four sides (left/right, front and top). Are you preparing to add an enclosure on top and on the front panel?

Wow nice. Uploading source files and .stl files directly from Cura to YouMagine...

Now that YouMagine sets out to be more than just a site where .stl files for printing are shared, I thought about a cool new feature that might provide some value to it. Add metadata to .stl files with information about critical printing parameters. Most printable objects on Thingiverse (and now YouMagine) are made by people who have already printed their creations - maybe several times. So these people know best how their objects should be printed. Wouldn't it be cool to download a .stl file, load it into Cura and have it automatically pull in values like: layer height shell thickness top/bottom thickness fill density print speed temperature cooling on/off Sure there are differences between printers, but many values apply and when someone prints an object for the first time (without knowing about its exact specifics), any clue or starting point is valuable. Technically this could be implemented without changing the .stl format. Binary .stl files have a header of 80 characters. This place can be used to encode printing values. Sure this encoding needs to be consistent, but if this "standard" catches on, it can have a "soft" deployment without impairing other slicers. Here is an example. Say I want to encode the following values: layer height: 0.2 shell thickness: 0.8 top/bottom thickness: 0.6 fill density: 20 print speed: 75 temperature: 225 cooling on/off: 1 The metadata could look like: <:estelle:>lh:0.2;st:0.8;tbt:0.6;fd:20;ps:75;te:225;co:1<:estelle:> "estelle" stand for enhanced .stl and is a female name just be fancy So all YouMagine and Cura had to do is to parse .stl files and interpret this values. Another, maybe cooler way would be to encode entire profiles in these 80 chars. I know that Cura does this for .gcode files already. If there are not enough characters to encode the entire profile, maybe provide a service where Cura profiles can be shared (another YouMagine only feature) and where each profile would have a short and unique id that is written to .stl files. This way Cura could lookup the id and pull in the entire profile. However it is done technically, the benefit of printing parameters in .stl files is pretty big. How many times did I download an object, printed it just to see that I have chosen the wrong parameters. Then I start to hunt for other "made" objects and see if someone was kind enough to write down his printing parameters. What dou you think?

We should stop calling the original Ultimaker V1 because it is more or less confirmed that they are just replacing the assembled Ultimaker with the new model. So the actual kit will continue to remain actual. I guess that's the reason the kit model is called "Ultimaker original" or "classic" (not sure).

Man over/under extrusion is a b***h. So the only way to fight it is to print slower/colder or faster/hotter and with a smaller layer height. I wish Cura would be a bit smarter about this and provide some tipps. I noticed that it does some sort of logic for that. I entered by accident 0.7 layer height with my .4 nozzle and Cura warned me about the print speed. Wich is nice. David should add more of these warnings. Maybe the cheat sheet will help him

Really? Remember that you can rotate objects on the platform in Cura. If you fiddle a bit with them, you should be able to fit them all in one print.

50 is fine. I would try 50 at 200° (maybe 205°). Right now I am printing the famous trilobite at speed 40 and temperature 190°: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28259 Besides the IKEA Dioder holder ist a - I call these kind of objects "duty parts" and doesn't need to be perfect. It should do its job. I usually start to get picky about quality for stuff I want to give away or that I use daily (like the iPhone stand).

No, just switch to full settings mode and deactivate support: The prints look alright. If you print "slowly" (50 is a moderate speed for the Ultimaker) maybe reduce the temperature to 200°.

These strands are support material. I guess the default/quick mode adds these by default when it detects evil overhang I'd suggest that you _never_ use the quick mode and go for the full settings. There is so much stuff that you can change, especially when you want high(er) quality prints. By the way, I added the IKEA Dioder led strips just yesterday to my printer. I printed the same models but ditched them afterwards because on the left/right sides the sliding blocks were hitting the lower area of the long part. Turns out it was a user error. Check out the comments on thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:130530/#comments I printed these instead: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:88190 Now I can mount all four led bars.

Ok, I understand it now. Very good explanation. Another thing for the cheat sheet

George, I am affraid of the flow setting. I have no feeling for it and no idea what it really does. To me it looks like a valve that increases plastik flow. But there are no hard values to follow. I guess it is another of these settings that needs to be discovered empirically.

I have printed the adjustable mounting bracket (thx Simon). I have seen these things before but I didn't want to drill holes in my Ultimaker. Right now I "solved" the issue by loosing the other motor/short belt a bit to match the x-motor. Works fine so far but I will mount the adjustable thing anyway. One thing to note - if you have a newer Ultimaker, select the "four screws version" because it is designed to pull all screws down and this plays nice with the delrin spacers.

I know it is not long before we will know for sure. But just for lols - let's try to predict stuff about the new machine. Here are my guesses (minus the facts that already leaked): Heat chamber I guess that's a must have for high quality ABS prints. Also possible because of the hint about quiet operation. [*]Built-in raspberry pi or the like That's for the "print and walk away feature". Would make sense if a stripped down version of cura runs on it. [*]Dual fans Just a wild guess. May be better for small and delicate prints. [*]Bed auto-leveling Greatly simplified leveling mechanism. Maybe something (semi)-automatic (with lasers and s**t) :cool: [*]Webcam and built-in webserver OctoPrint runs fine on the raspberry pi and supports webcams. Add a cam to the Ultimaker and you have your remotly operated machine. [*]Controll app for iOS and Android Hipster alarm: Wouldn't it be nice to show off - I mean controll your printer on the go? [*]RGB led stripes Because it looks cool when the printer changes colors when it is done printing. [*]Rubber damping feet Quiet operation and reduces vibrations. Looks more like wishful thinking than reality, but I'd like to see these features What do you think?

Ok, bei dir waren es 6 monate, aber wir haben es aus dem gleichen Grund verkauft. Ich möchte ein anderes Modell.

@owen: I played with themerature (and speed) quit a lot lately, but this issue didn't show up after changing something significantly about temperature. @AnthonyT: Alright, that's what I would try next. @Dim3nsioneer: I don't think it is the bed. I got very good (and fast) at leveling and it is spot on. I checked the distance in several locations and it is mostly constant. Just a little update - I tried to tighten the short belt on the x-motor (with slightly more excessive force while hoping that it won't break) and the issue is less pronunced now. So I guess it is related to the tension of the short belts. I will follow AnthonyT's suggestion and file the screw holes for the motor a bit so I can push it further down to increase tension.

Hi, es gibt leider keinen Unterforum für Verkäufe auf Deutsch, daher der Hinweis. Ich verkaufe meinen 6 Wochen alten Ultimaker. Infos (auf Englisch) hier: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2946-new-ultimaker-for-sale-germany/ Grüße Stefan

I am selling an assembled Ultimaker for 1500€ (without shipping). I bought it two months ago (still under waranty). The printer is fully assembled and tuned and has the following upgrades and addons: UltiController + 2GB sdcard Better pulleys from user foehnsturm (see this thread) IKEA Dioder (RGB LED lights) Belt tensioners Endcaps with stopper screw(s) Short belt tensioners for x/y motors Bowden clip Nylock nuts on many parts so nothing comes loose due to vibration Small glass plate for printing (no need to replace tape every few prints) Included is a spool of blue filament (Ultimate Blue at ~80%). I have printed a few objects, mostly stuff for tuning. It performs very well - I have spent a lot of time adjusting and improving it. But I am a perfectionist - it is never good enough... If you compare prices with the assembled (or kit) version on the Ultimaker store, keep in mind that their prices don't include VAT. Depending on your location you then need to add 10-20% to their prices. Location: Germany, Hessen, Wiesbaden. You can pick it up at my place or I can ship it to you (you can choose the shipping method, insured shipping prefered). Here are some pics: Here are some prints I made with the printer: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:48979 http://www.thingiverse.com/make:48940 http://www.thingiverse.com/make:49605 http://www.thingiverse.com/make:48018 http://www.thingiverse.com/make:47965 http://www.thingiverse.com/make:47964 http://www.thingiverse.com/make:48273 http://www.thingiverse.com/make:48274 If you are interested, send me a personal message or an email: make (at) nicolinux.org. Stefan

Ahh slowly - George you are overloading my tender mind. How can over- and under-extrusion happen at the same time? Maybe I don't understand underextrusion. I thought that's the case when less than expected PLA is extruded wich results in crappy infill - like strands that are too thin and do not touch each other. I do get the part with blobs when the head slows down - we discussed this in my other thread with the slowmo video.

Hi guys, I noticed another issue lately and I don't know what could cause it. The outer walls seem to not stick to the rest of the object and start delaminating. It is not everywhere around the object and it varies with different objects. layer height: 0.2 walls: 0.8 top/bottom: 0.6 infill: 20 speed: 50 temperature: 200 I also noticed that the skirt already shows these signs. My first idea was to chech for loose pulleys and belt tension. But everything looks alright. I tightened all pulleys and my belts have a fairly high tension. The short belt on the x-motor though has a lower tension than the y-motor. That's because I can't increase the tension anymore when I push the motor down (didn't want to overdo it...). I have also switched filament, but the issue remains. Thanks.