3dguy

Stevie.d, Glad to hear it's working. What kind of heated Bed do you have? What kind of thermistor? I understand being unnerved, I felt the same way after I temporarily bricked my printer, but after building the custom marlin a second time and selecting Ultimaker template and then Ultimaker with custom heated Bed and Ulticontroller and selected the correct thermistor profile and flashed using the arduino IDE the bed works great. Just don't flash using the feature in Cura. Thanks to a anon4321 for helping me with the wiring concept, after that, the hardest part was turning on the heated bed for the 1st time and expecting to see smoke, it was the most wiring I had done in years. If you decide to give it another try double check your connections and rebuild the firmware double checking your selections before clicking build..

Should one of the ground connections on the electronics board be good enough?

stevie.d Is it an UM1? If so: Does the UltiController function? Check to make sure the ribbon cables are connected to the correct connectors. Do you have a heated bed? If so: Did you use the upgrade firmware within Cura or from http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ ? If you used the marlin builder did you choose Ultimaker from the "Templates: Select your Machine" dropdown? It will let you build a marlin without making the selection but it will not work. When I first installed my heated bed I upgraded the firmware from within Cura with the heated bed option and it bricked my machine, the Ulticontroller would turn on but it would give a temp error and then the entire display would fill with white blocks. The only way I could fix it was to remove the electronics (after disconnecting the power of course) and carefully removing the Arduino from the main board and using the above link for Marlinbuilder to build the custom marlin and using the Arduino IDE to flash the new firmware with the Arduino board connected directly to my computer via USB.

I put my UM1 on 4 vibration dampening pads, each pad is 6" x 1" square with 1/2" of cork sandwiched between a 1/4" thick piece of ribbed rubber on each side. I also added 16lbs of rubberized flex metal weights to the inside of the frame on the bottom platform, it doesn't shake much now.

Thanks! It could have been done a little less expensively had I not had the pockets milled out of the bottom to reduce the overall weight a bit.

I am actually using copper foil tape, the same kind used to shield guitar electronics cavities, just a lot narrower.

So far for me the biggest improvement was totally replacing the z-stage, build plate and leveling system with a simple aluminum z-stage I designed and had made and the addition of a heated bed with an aluminum base topped with 1/16" ptfe sheet, the PCB heater and a 3/16" clear ceramic glass print surface. My new z-stage is a 1/2" x 8" x 12" aluminum plate with 4 linear no lube guide bearings from IGUS (2 - 2 1/2" on top, and 2 - 1" on the underside), a new acetal trapezoidal nut from DumpsterCNC.com, and 4 micro adjuster screws with 100 threads per inch. I designed the bed to be leveled with either a 3 or 4 point leveling system. Before the upgrade I would have to re-level the print surface before every print, the humidity here fluctuates from 12% to 70% so the wood changed constantly, with my new setup, I have printed 4 items in a row over the period of several days and I have not had to re-level the print surface. I made 2 problems with my upgrades, after the last redesign I accidentally put the leveling holes a 1/2" to far back so my print surface sits a 1/2" back from where it should be, I need to have another set of holes drilled to remedy this. The second mistake I made was making the tolerance a little tight at the back of the stage and it hits the screw heads for the filament mounting bracket, it will be an easy fix, I just need to countersink the screws. The z-stage and aluminum bed upgrade were kind of expensive due to the fact that I do not have access to a mill, nor do I have any experience using a mill and finding a shop here that will do one-off jobs without a large production run is like finding a needle in a hay stack.

I am going to try to shield the fan wires. I ordered a roll of magnetic shielding foil tape and another piece of the plastic spiral wire guide so I can isolate the fan wires from the other wiring, hopefully it will arrive by Thursday so I can test it soon.

When not set to 100%, it changes every second or two, when it is set to 100% it is very stable with the temperature reading going over by 1 degree for a few seconds and back to normal and it will do this every few minutes.

The fans are the same size as the original fan, and 12v, they are blower fans and I created a mount that has a small duct near the print head that reduces the flow through several small holes on the bottom and directs it away from the print head. With the duct the airflow is not overly strong, in fact I may make the holes slightly larger. Here is a picture of the underside of the mount with the duct and the fan mounted. It is the same manufacturer as the stock fan and the only ones I could find that would survive the fan power supply. I think the fluctuations in the temperature display might just be noise interference, as the prints seem to be printing fine.

Antiklesys, here are 2 pictures of the connection.

Thanks for the suggestion anon4321, I'll look into adding a cap.

I still need to do several test prints to make sure the weight does not make a difference in the print. I also just installed a custom aluminum z stage and heated bed so I am testing to see they have effected my print quality as well. After redesigning my z stage several times I made a last minute change and accidently had the holes for the adjusting screws drilled about a half inch to far back so my print surface is a little farther back than it should be.

No they are actually pointed away from the heater block at 20 degree angles.

Mine are wired in parallel, yes, I just soldered a y connector using Deans connectors to the original fan connector.

It seems to only be over shooting by 1 or 2 degrees C at 255.

It is jumping from 235 to 250 to 216 to 240, etc.. It is definitely more stable at full (255) but still over shooting some on the display. I'll try to twist the wires, but I will have to de-solder them, I didn't even think about twisting them when I made the connector. Thanks for the suggestions.

Any ideas on how to correct wildly fluctuating temp sensor after adding dual fans to Utimaker 1? I added a Y connector to the original connector and have two blower fans connected. It is printing fine and the prints look good but the numbers are jumping all over the place.

Hey all, I just upgraded Cura to 14.07 and during the first run wizard I clicked on upgrade firmware not really thinking about it and after doing so my Ultimaker 1 was temporarily hobbled. I am using a heated bed and had a custom firmware installed and after I upgraded the firmware through Cura 14.07 I got a Max Bed Temp Error and I could not clear the error or upgrade the firmware again and the LCD on the Ulti-Controller just displayed white squares. I checked all of my Bed connections and they were good. In order to fix the printer I had to physically remove the Arduino board , carry it over to my laptop and re-flash the firmware. It took quite a bit longer to flash than before so I was not sure if it was going to work. So a question I have is that will this happen every time I try to upgrade the firmware via Cura now that I have a heated bed? To Take advantage of the updated firmware will I have to download it manually and open it in the Arduino IDE and make my heated bed changes manually and then save and upload from Arduino?

Hello, I am trying to upload my design and images to YouMagine but nothing happens when I drag files into the "Drag Box" and the "Browse" buttons do not function. Is YouMagine down for maintenance?

So I tried the fan on the UM and it fits nicely and seems to handle the power well. Trial Fit. Axis Clearance. Fan Make and Model and a view of how the nozzle fits into the duct . I just need to make a Y cable and connect both fans now and print the mount and duct for the left side fan. I also need to source some m3 20mm or 22mm screws and nuts.

anon4321, I also accidentally slipped a screw driver tip into the moving fan and broke a blade off of the fan. I am trying a new design with blower fans and I am in the process of printing the mounts now. These two blowers fans I found on Amazon, they are inexpensive and so far they seem to be holding up good to the voltage of the UM. They are from the same manufacturer as the original fan with nearly identical power ratings. If my mount design works I will post it. Here is the link to the fans. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BKE27V0/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't think it will matter. I could see it making a difference on spans much wider than 12 inches. I will probably find out in the next week or so as I opted to go with linear bearings that are almost 1" shorter than the ones that are currently on the z-stage for the aluminum stage I am trying to implement. If it doesn't provide the need stability then I will have to order the longer 2"ish bearings.

I have been searching for the same things lately and I have found a few bearing companies in the US and Germany but none that have the 8mm x 11mm x 30mm bushings, I have found some that have 8mm x 11mm x 25mm in bronze, and 8mm x 11mm x 20mm and a company that makes custom bearings but I do not have any idea what they charge for the custom work. http://asbbearingsonline.com/ http://www.symmco.com/metric.html and 8mm x 15mm x 24mm aluminum, lined bearings from PBC http://www.pbclinear.com/FJ-JIS-Closed-Linear-Bearing?tab=Specifications and 8mm x 15mm x 24mm and 8mm x 16mm x 25mm from http://www.igus.com/wpck/3542/DryLin_R_Lineargleitlager The bushings don't have to be the same length if the part is slightly redesigned they just need the same diameter. IGUS's prices aren't the cheapest , they cost more than bronze by quite a bit. oh, and aliexpress as Callum Burns noted. They have quite a few available through vendors in China at really inexpensive prices, though I do not have a clue about their shipping charges. http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=Ultimaker+8mm+bushings&catId=&initiative_id=SB_20140622000930

Thanks again anon4321! I finally got my new setup going with my new bed levelers and the aluminum bed sitting on them in small recesses on the bottom of the plate, then a 1/16" piece of ceramic fiber board (going to replace it with a .093" piece of PTFE cut to size, the fiber board sheds a fine white dust I don't like), then the MK-1 PCB Heater then a 3/16" piece of Clear Ceramic Glass held in place by silver medium binder clips (I would like to find a better solution.) It is so nice to be able to print several prints without having to make constant big bed leveling adjustments. I just finished designing and printing 8 press on brackets for my Ikea Dioder LED lights and they work very well, though I think I will do a slight redesign and push them in 1" towards the inside of the printer (getting some minor shadows from the edge of the top.) It is so easy to remove prints now. No more having to scrape and sand Blue Tape off of my ABS Prints! I just have one more major upgrade to do and that is finish building my new all aluminum Z-Stage. I am almost finished with the design, I am just waiting for my new Trapezoidal Flange Mount Nut and the two new Drylin R Flange Linear Bearings to arrive so I can finalize the position of the mounting holes and have the new stage cut out (not the cheapest of upgrades, I wish I knew how to do millwork myself.) I should have the upgrade done in the next few weeks. My parts should all be here by June 26th. I can't wait to try it out when it is done, my current heated setup is almost 3/4" taller than the acrylic bed was and my new design should make it even thinner than the current UM-1 stage design by a decent amount.