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ballanux

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  1. Building a 3D printer is not an easy task, you shouldn't be ashamed not getting it right on the first try! (or second, or third...) Always provide as much information as you can so other people can help you faster and better. Anyway, you shouldn't rush things, always read the manual before and after doing some assembly and do the proper checks for every part of the machine before start printing for the first time. You should have tried to just make the extruder "home" before heating it up.
  2. That wheel looks great, but I was checking the dimensions and I think the diameter of the UM2 feeder wheel should be 8mm and that one is 7mm. Could anyone confirm this? The feeder could be modified to use a 7mm wheel but it also should be taken into account in the firmware.
  3. I didn't thought about not being able to push the filament by hand, but I don't see much problem about the "move filament" menu, the UM1 also has that option, maybe not so visible, but you can go to prepare, move axis, extuder. Anyway I may try to put it as a second extruder, without dismantling the original, so I will have to find also a new spring and bearing
  4. Great, thanks for the info! I might try to find a similar knurled wheel and put it together... What are the specs of the motor? would be one of 400 steps and about 48Nm of torque enough?
  5. mmm, so this could be used in the UM Original without much problem? I think I will try it :-) Is the spring in this feeder the same than in the UM-Original?
  6. Today I was going to start with this mod, measured the fan PWM output at maximum setting and got 18,5V!! :shock: Of course there isn't any problem that the PWM signal is 0-19V, it doesn't need to be regulated, but at least the software shouldn't allow a duty cycle that produces more that 12V. Is this normal? I have a custom build firmware, but I didn't touch this part. I think it's better to limit the duty to 161 (the maximum is 255) or something like that. Maybe a good fan will handle the extra power without much problem, but I'm sure that in the long term it will shorten its life.
  7. So this came in the mail just some minutes ago! I'm going to design a mount for the Ultimaker and test it with the stock printing head. I will try to post some results soon! edit: well, I just turned it on to check it works and it draws 411mA at 12V, just as specified. It may sound just a bit louder than the stock fan but of course it gives much greater air flow so in the final setup, with reduced speed, I'm sure I won't ear it at all.
  8. I used a 47K NTC thermistor that I had around and for which I didn't know it's exact specifications, so I calibrated it myself. For this, I measured the actual temperature in the top of the bed with a thermocouple and a multimeter. Of course, this won't be very accurate. With the fan on, the temperature difference between the top and the bottom of the bed will be greater than in my calibration. In my case I have found that having the temperature in the 65~80ºC doesn't make much difference... In fact, right now I don't have any temperature control for my bed, I just adjusted the voltage in the additional power supply so the bed heats up to about 80ºC if I don't have the fan on, and with it the temperature drops to about 70~73ºC so it's working very well without any MOSFET or relay switching the power by software. Of course, in the near future I will change this so I can run the entire printer with a single power supply. I'm just commenting it because I think the temperature hasn't have to be perfect. An error of 5ºC won't be a real problem. But in your case... I'm sure that the thermal conductivity of the basalt is very low compared with aluminum. So the temperature gradient between the top and the bottom of the stone will be much greater. Also the thermal mass will be very high, so the temperature you are measuring can be very different... For example, when the fan turns on, the temperature at the top of the bed will decrease quickly, but the sensor at the bottom won't notice it until much later, possibly minutes, so during this time the temperature can decrease a lot at the top. This is just a guess, of course you should measure it and try to compensate for this errors. You are right about the kapton tape, right now I have one roll of 10mm wide and it's very difficult to place properly, and the pattern of the kapton will show in the bottom of the prints, but I have bought a couple of rectangular kapton sheets of 20x20cm so this should solve the problem. Also, there are rolls of kapton of 20cm wide and even more but I think the sheets will be easier to place and will be more durable.
  9. I use kapton tape in my build platform and I heat it up to about 70ºC, with this, the PLA sticks without any problem
  10. Great post! Maybe this has already been covered in another post, but what would be the target temperature for the heated chamber? Would you need additional heating to reach this temperature (apart from the heated bed)? It may take me long, but I plan on doing this same mod, I build some time ago a 4 channel temperature logger, so it would be great to measure temperature in various points (external/internal ambient, heating build platform and hot end) and maybe even try to model it's thermal behavior.
  11. I calibrated my heated bed some days ago with a multimeter and thermocouple and worked great. I think it's the most accurate way if you stick the thermocouple to the bed with some kapton tape
  12. I also ordered a crossflow fan from conrad, I think my ultimaker is going to look a lot like yours :-P The firmware usually doesn't need big changes, if you use common components. I used a 47K NTC (for the heated bed) I had around and had to input a new thermistor table into the firmware so I couldn't use the Marlin builder, but that's a great tool, it's really easy to build a new firmware and upload it to the printer!
  13. This hotend isn't designed for neither for UM1 or UM2, in any case, I don't see why you couldn't adapt it for UM2. I don't know if you will be able to use the mount Nick designed or if you will have to make your own. In the firmware, maybe the PID values for the heating may change... This is a big mod of the ultimaker that requires disassembling and possibly modifying various parts of it. If you are not confident enough... I wouldn't recommend it
  14. I ordered one... not sure if I should order another... :???: I'm not sure if this sale is while the stock last, or if they are going to make new ones to meet demand.
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