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parabolic

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  1. Yeah, Its pretty big - I just gotta figure out how to isolate the 2 motors on the same driver - I still think Im having feedback. Thanks for the help! Jeff
  2. Daid, My avatar is a I3 derivative, but NOT an I3. As far as my new printer goes, its kinda like a ultimaker - with the X&Y on the same AXIS, however im using linear rail and rollers so I wanted to use 2 motors to drive it. Im having the skipping issue on fast movements and was hoping I could get that F9000 to change to F5000 somehow. Probably a weight issue im trying to rectify with hardware. Jeff
  3. sorry for the play on words. Im working on a new printer and am testing the X & Y carriages now. Ive been through new stronger steppers and "purple" driver bards and tweaked the voltages. When running a test "print" I can hear the motors grinding internally - magnetically decoupling. belts are good as well as pulleys. This seems to happen on fast non print movements. Ive tracked it down to the F9000 speed. Is there ANY WAY to adjust this? Why would CURA generate that fast of a movement? Id like to slow it down to 5000 or so - this way I can speed up my print movements without fear of it skipping steps. If not is there a firmware override for RAMPS? Thanks! Jeff
  4. hmm.... so is there going to me options in the Expert settings for instance to have control over bridging then? Im kinda lost on what was stated above...
  5. So has the bridging gotten any better in Cura in the latest builds? I cant seem to find any way to adjust the speed and flow for just bridging. Im printing a standard bottle opener right now and it doesnt seem to change its speed or direction for bridging...Id like to be able to tweak that as my prints are great but certain bridges seem to droop and not fully connect. Id like to be able to slow it down for that operation. Thanks
  6. Man, that sucks - I just made a camera mount for my usb cam JUST because I started using that feature! Well, I hope it becomes at least an option - I was getting into those time lapse movies!
  7. Heres what im getting: LAYER 1 Layer 2 Pictures worth a thousand words - right??
  8. I liked the Camera feature - it there a plugin to put that in the new (old) interface? Im a 3 years running reprapper who was around in the "old days" when pronterface (printrun) was all we had - and slicing was a CHORE!! However, I personally like the overall layout of the print window - but on the same token Ive been using Cura for over a year and LOVE it!! - so Im hoping some of the features (like time lapse) will become one with the new window...among others.
  9. Using a raft on a ring im printing and the first layer works fine - according to my raft settings, however, the second layer prints at a 45 degree angle to it instead of 90 degrees and that layer has no spacing at all - like a solid infill. After that the item prints on top of it fine... Is this a bug or a feature?
  10. Is this file still good? getting a download error.....
  11. Thats a great Idea!! - now only if I knew how to do that in G code...Im still rusty with that end. Thanks for the suggestion!
  12. Yeah, I know that I could set both my x and y endstops closer in to a 0,0 point on the buildplate, but I kinda like having the "off bed" area figured in to assist in the dump and "cut" of the seeping plastic from the extruder when it starts to print..
  13. LOL - no I didnt. but My X and Y zero off the bed (how I like it for a dump area), so theres like 10 or so mm until it reaches the "printable area". Hence if I could have that AND set bed dimensions, that would be great. Just something to indicate bed center.
  14. Daid, I was wondering if it would be possible to add a virtual print bed area. As I have entered the max length width and heights of my printer, is there a way to tell it how big the actual printable surface area is and where center x&y is? Thanks!
  15. Daid, Im not sure about the OP, but when I print some of my Prusa derived bearing holders I WANT to print them perpendicular to the linear bearings. The style he has shown (what I like to use) is kinda a tensioned friction holder for the bearings. If printed another way the "grain" of the print creates a weak spot and may break easier. I am hoping that you will add a sort of selectable support system in the future. some areas that print fine without support are a pain in the ass to remove when printed with support (i.e. bolt through holes). I may look into meshmixer, however I LOVE the fact that Cura is a "one stop shop" for printing an stl. Id hate to have to implement another program to do this function. In any case - THANKS for the program!
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