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  1. Ah good point. I am located in NJ, USA.
  2. Hi everyone! I wanted to pop in here to see if there would be anyone able to print out a mold box I have created. If you could, please give me a price and lead time. I have attached the file to the post. The main goal is to have the print come out as smoothly as possible. Meaning, ideally I would like to have the finer details with as little roughness as possible. I have made a public dropbox folder of the .STL file for you all to view! https://www.dropbox.com/sh/83vjrqnutuklis2/AABlfqyzcNXw_9hPr6VBdq-xa Let me know your thoughts, thanks. -Joe-
  3. Not too sure if you already got things up and running but I used the same PCB. I measure about 1 ohm when its cold. I am using this power supply: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0U008P5041&Tpk=9SIA0U008P5041 It seems to work okay. My thermistor connected off the UM board (separate circuit for the bed) reads 77 degree C as the highest temperature I have gone too. It definetely gets too hot to touch comfortably. I am still testing my setup too. Hope that helps!
  4. Ok so here are some pics of what I am seeing so far: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/79soc2cqg2g8xa4/JHzsQ0Evlt @Joergen I was looking through some old threads and found this: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1684-us-source-for-spare-parts/ Is there still a community brewing in NYC? I am thinking I should get a replacement nozzle and threaded brass piece, maybe this might fix my problem but shipping from the Netherlands is something I looking to avoid if I can help it. I don't like the shotgun approach to troubleshooting but I am getting stumped on what to do. @All I also stuck the heater bed arduino code in the public dropbox link. I figured someone may find it useful. It's not PID or state space or any other fancy control algorithm, just a simple on/off control. When the whole setup works completely, I can post the final code and schematic.
  5. I thought 235 seems kinda low also but it looks like any higher and the tangerine color turns an ugly brown. You can find my settings here: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32592057/settngs.jpg My flow control is at 120%. Though, when the first try with ABS was done, it seemed to print okay. As of now, it does not come out nice and squirty like the PLA does when I print with it. The extruder spring seems okay. I can feed filament in manually and I can actually see the plastic move up and down on the bowden tube. I will post some burned and non burned plastic when I get the chance to give you guys a better idea of what I am seeing.
  6. I had the same problem from my laptop. I used another laptop, turned the internet off, and went on to print something for six hours. No issues were encountered. I would say its computer related. People have switched to using a ulticontroller and have never seen the problem since.
  7. Hello all, Finally needed to resort to the forum since I have been stuck for about 1 week now on trying to print ABS. Ok, so here is the problem: I have been itching to print in ABS for a while. All of my PLA prints have come out great but ABS is a challenge. The heater bed I have created is a MK1 (the red one with a hole in the middle for a thermistor). I decided to use an Arduino and create my own heat bed control code and circuitry. This has been tested and works great (displays temp on LCD). It has been mounted and leveled on the printer. When all this was done, I purchased some ABS plastic from here: http://www.protoparadigm.com/3mm-abs/ It is the tangerine color one if that matters any. After recieving it, I tried out a first print. It extruded fine enough and it printed a few first layers of my model. But after layers, it did not stick well enough and began to lift off the bed (I think because the bed was not hot enough and the cooling fan messed it up). So I tried again....and again...and again... until it was barely extruding. So I figured I had a clog. No biggie, just took the nozzle, brass thread, and PEEK apart. I acetone bathed the brass parts and then torched them to 1300 degree F to vaporized the rest of the plastic. I took a look through a microscope and it seemed that both brass parts were clean. I installed the parts again (well, after I re-tapped the PEEK, man that thing was initally threaded terribly) and tried to manually extrude. It seem to be fine but it was slow at a temp of 235 degree C. I don't know how ABS flows but it seemed it wasn't good enough. I pushed some plastic with a flat tipped screw and the ABS came out ok but it took a little force. I tried highering the temp but that turned the plastic brownish so I imiediately went back to 235, got the clean orange again. I tried printning and nothing what so ever comes out (well, hardly any, not enough to stick on the bed). I checked tthe stepper gear for the filament feed and I can manually move throughthe Bowden tube just fine. I tried pushing filament again and tried to print again, no go. SO before I go an clean it again (I don't think its clogged though, more like a desperate attempt) is there some magic recipe I do not know about? I mean, I have read other threads and people have similar issues but don't seem to get around the issue. I'd like to get annother nozzle doesn't Ultimaker have other vendors in the world? Maybe near or at the US? Has anyone been through the same problems and solved it?
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