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edr360

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  1. I switch from abs to pla almost every day, it takes some time, but generally it starts printing fine after the color of the extruded plastic becomes "normal" and not mixed with the color of the previous filament. I print with pla at 245 C though, I assume, this may be an issue in case you use lower temperatures. I have already disassembled the printhead, it turned out, that plastic expanded in the upper part of the printhead causing the jam, just like Robert predicted. I would like to thank everybody for assistance.
  2. Of course, I checked the temperature right after removing the nozzle, the plastic inside was still molten. Well, first i tried to press "retraction" button in cura, I figured, it would be similar to turning the big gear)) Yes, I pulled it using my hands, really hard, it did not budge. I really don't understand how can it be stuck. Both abs and pla should be liquid when heated to 245-260 C, and the filament should come out easily...
  3. I have encountered a weird problem. Everything was fine, there were no problems with prints at all. I changed black abs filament to white abs, and saw underextrusion, even though I used the same filament as before and knew the best settings for this filament. I checked, if the nozzle was clogged, it was ok, so I decided to change the filament again, this time white pla. Right after I changed the filament and heated the extruder to 245 C, extrusion stopped at all. The nozzle was still fine, feeder was working. After I tried to push the filament manually, i realized it was completely stuck, I couldn't get it out even if applying force. I have removed the nozzle and dismantled the feeding mechanism completely, however, it is still dead stuck. What do I need to disassemble now to get this thing working again?)) Thank you in advance
  4. I use 2 hex nuts and 1 washer for each angle. Basically, the heated plate is screwed down to the acrylic sheet and the hex nuts and washers create a gap between the heater and the acrylic. As heat conductivity of air is very low, the acrylic gets only a little warm. Its maximum safe operation temperature is about 80 C, so there is no problem with that. Max Z travel is 8-9mm less than the original one.
  5. I used the original acrylic plate and added a few washers between the acrylic and the heating element to keep the acrylic cool. Did not remove the springs either. I print on glass covered with kapton tape. I suppose, the setup without springs and with plywood base may be better in some ways, maybe I'll try it later.
  6. Yes, the pulley on the short belt caused the problem, actually it was very easy to notice while checking the motor, not really worth creating a topic) Thanks for advice.
  7. Thanks for such a quick response, I guess I have figured out, what the problem is. The motor runs smoothly, but the pulley doesn't. So, either it is loose, or broke down. I need to disassemble the machine a little and check.
  8. Hello everybody, I have encountered a problem. The printhead moves normally in x-axis, but struggles to move normally in y-axis. It looks like it hits an invisible obstacle from time to time, therefore, when printing, models are not scaled correctly. Belt tension seems to be normal, there are no strange sounds from stepper motors as well. Re-installing standard firmware did not give any results (I use custom firmware for heated buildplate). Previously this day, the printhead has hit a part of a print, due to my lack of attention. After that everything was ok for a few hours, then the problem appeared. Can it be a motor failure, do I need to get a new one? Thanks in advance.
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