Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
  • Sign Up

aaron

Dormant
  • Content Count

    124
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Everything posted by aaron

  1. Also more fibers per square inch if your are looking for strength. This is an interesting mystery.
  2. Is the general shape of the new nozzle the same as the UM one?
  3. Agreed. However, for UM purposes, 3mm is far superior.
  4. Yeah, not sure why UM didn't just include one stock...
  5. For the record, I agree that the UM is overpriced and is a bit ridiculous to ship to the US from the Netherlands. However, the quality of the laser cut wood and machined parts is very good. Im still not sure if I like the design although I have owned one for a year and make a living with it. My largest issue is that for the price, UM should have worked out all of the little quality issues such as the delrin ring in the extruder and the clamp that secures the bowden tube. For the price, I shouldn't have to source higher quality parts for such simple implementations in such an expensive kit.
  6. Oh the joy of converting from a small business to a large one.
  7. about and inch cubed. Or 25 mm cubed for you metric folk. I print at .17mm layers @ 225 degrees C.
  8. I already have numbers embossed. I was just curious if anyone else noticed this issue. Will attempt higher temperature.
  9. Hello all. I am using Cura 13.11.2 because it doesn't appear the interface in the newer versions for the USB connection with the printer is not as sophisticated (please set me strait if I am missing something). Anyway, when I am printing, I pause the print and manually lower the bed while I change filament. When I raise the bed back to its proper position and attempt to reengage the print sequence, sometimes it will just cancel the print and make me reconnect with the printer. Other times, it works just fine without any glitches. Any suggestions or ideas? Dave, what is your thought? FYI I am printing using USB, not ulticontroller. Thanks.
  10. Hello all. As a hobby I sell custom 3D printed dice. I hand-paint the numbers. However, sometimes the paint visibly absorbs between the layers of plastic in some parts of the prints. This only happens in some areas. Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions. Any printing preferences suggestions? Do you think a quick spray clear coat of some sort would help?
  11. I have a previous thread about converting the UM1 to 1.75 and its Pros and Cons. We decided the benefits of 3mm outweigh the benefits of 3mm.
  12. Hi all. I have been having issues with the stock extruder for the UM1. The wheel attached opposite to the bolt with teeth machined into it has been worn down. I have been looking for a solution to this on Thingiverse but I have only found upgrades for the spring adjustment part of the extruder driver. Any files you know of that eliminate that flimsy plastic wheel and allow for the use of a bearing directly?
  13. Anyone tried Matterhackers?
  14. Have you guys heard anything about Matterhackers and justpla?
  15. Hello there. I have been trying to procure a spool of dark purple PLA... Dark purple as in the Incredible Hulk's shorts (couldn't think of anything else that everyone would know). Anyway, every supplier I have purchased a spool of "purple" from has the picture of the color I want but winds up sending me a lighter, translucent purple. Does anyone know of any sources for solid dark purple PLA?
  16. Thanks a bunch! Ha, I didn't know Aaron was such a popular name!
  17. Just curious if anyone knows any US sources for the hardware used in the UM1. I am referring to the screws and nuts. I really like the quality and design of these screws and would love to find a US source. Thanks!
  18. Hello all. I am by no means a software engineer and need some information. Will the supplied electronics with Makerfarm's Prusa i3 work with Cura? I believe it is marlin firmware, but I am not sure. Anyway, if the answer is yes, what steps are involved with syncing the electronics with Cura? Not asking about setting machine specs in the preferences, just the initial sync. Thanks.
  19. Okay thanks for all of the feedback! I will let you know within a couple weeks whether or not I will go with this project. I do believe I will need a little help with the electrical components as I don't know much about electrical heaters. I believe can manage the motor circuit because I have taken two years of electrical circuit courses, however, input on that subject would not be unwelcome. As for the body of the pen itself, that shouldn't be an issue either as I am a CAD designer. Curious to see how it will turn out if I end up following through with it!
  20. Thanks for the feedback. To answer your question, I would not be posting this if I just wanted to go and buy one. The science expo I am attending is to demonstrate to children how an educated individual can use science and publicly accessible technology to create something cool (like the 3D printer pen).
  21. I am looking to design and build a homemade version of the 3doodler for use at a table at a local science expo. Knowing there is bunch of engineers and, of coarse, the designers of the Ultimaker on these forums, I chose to bring this little project to the Ultimaker forums. So please, if you have any input at all, post it! I will break down what I am looking for / currently thinking regarding the design of the printer pen. Extruder: Considering the fact that I won't have to compensate for variable speed, temp, and layer height, I don't think the use of a stepper motor is required. What hi-torque / low rpm motors do you recommend? As for the actual extruder body, I was planning on using a reprap design. Nozzle: Should I just drill a .5mm hole out a bolt and go from there or should I go the machined nozzle and heater block route? Hot End: I do think a variable and monitored hot end with a thermistor is required. This will allow me to switch between PLA and ABS. As for monitoring and adjusting the temp, how should I interface that with a computer? Or should I go the soldering iron approach (no thermistor, just a heating device that will stop at a certain point)? I am open to any and all suggestions regarding the hot end. This will be the most difficult part. Hot End to Cold End Insulation: Fiberglass wool? Bamboo? Peek? Not sure what the best material to use is. Any ideas for the transition between the extruder and the hot end w/ insulation? Plastic Filament: I am currently leaning toward ABS as it has a smaller cooling window and is a bit less brittle than PLA. However, I cannot chose between 1.75 and 3mm filament. 1.75mm is easier to procure for me but 3mm may be more feasible. I apologize for all of the open-ended questions. I am still in the feasibility check phase and have not yet begun the design process. I thought I'd bring it to the creative Ultimaker forum for ideas before I began. If you think of anything else I did not mention above, please post!
  22. Glad to hear it! No thanks is needed. Only, when you are done with your printer and learn some new things that others may find helpful that isn't already on this forum, post it! Good luck on the printer.
  23. I think I am going to have to agree with you. It appears to be a very well thought out design.
  24. I found this list very helpful! I did not know most of those brands even existed. Perfect for finding a printer in a particular price range.
×
×
  • Create New...