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aaron

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Everything posted by aaron

  1. I have an Ultimaker currently and I like the results I am getting with it. However, I wish to try out another brand of printer. What do you guys recommend for printers around $600 or less? Printrbot?
  2. Thanks for the feedback. I will certainly try it and post my results.
  3. I want to build a miniature filament extruder. However, I do not know whether or not I want to try to find all of the parts or just buy the Filastruder Kit. What do you guys think?
  4. Well, I believe I was printing at 240C, 80 mm/s, and .24 mm layers. As for the SD card, I use a USB setup. I have two computers so this isn't an issue. Next time I print, I will keep a closer eye on the printing process and the spool and see if I can identify the issue.
  5. I have found a dremel tool with wire brushes to work quite well.
  6. Thanks for the feedback. I think you guys may be right if it were not for the fact that the error occurred exactly at the outer edges of the print. There was a perfect and definitive absence of material there. If underextrusion or friction were the case, I believe it would be more erratic and random. So do I have a slicing error?
  7. You are correct about the tolerances. The only real drawback I have read (besides here) is the fact that tolerance are more apparent in the product of the print.
  8. I have been reading a bit and it seems the general consensus is that 1.75 mm is overall better that 3 mm filament. What are your thoughts on making the conversion? What would absolutely need to be changed in order to make it work?
  9. Okay, I understand 3d printing quite well and have been in the hobby for a considerable amount of time. However, I can't figure out why this is happening. On some of my larger prints there is a layer in which the outer layer is not printed. I cannot figure out why this is happening. I know it has nothing to do with the z axis or x and y axis friction issues. Any ideas? Any help is appreciated. A picture can be found here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/album/325-printing/ It is the last picture.
  10. Now this is adhesion! http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/album/325-printing/
  11. Well, I hate to be a blonde Ultimaker user too. However, I guess I must to ask this question. How do you view the gcode in/with Cura? I must be missing something incredibly obvious. Any help is appreciated! Thanks.
  12. Good feedback! Another thing I would like to add about tape is about first layer adhesion. If your first prints are warping, this can be fixed in several ways. However, you must first determine how the object is warping. Is it coming off the tape in the corners? Is it still connected to the tape, only the tape is coming off the acrylic bed? If you answered yes to the first question, you have a first layer issue. This can usually be cured with the aforementioned isopropyl treatment. Other ways include increasing hot-end temperature, and lowering the head closer to the print bed for the first layer. You may also want to try a brim or set Cura to print a thicker first layer. If you answered yes to the second question, you need to remove all of your tape and wipe the bed with isopropyl alcohol. This will help with tape adhesion to the bed. I have found that the best method for this is to lower the print head as low as you can within reason. This will press the plastic into the tape, thus pressing the tape onto the bed. The side effect of better adhesion as Nicolinux said is the fact that every time your remove an object, you will destroy the tape.
  13. To prevent any confusion, this post and its content are referring mostly to the Ultimaker 1. I apologize for the lack of clarity on this matter. This post was originally written before the U2 came out.
  14. Okay, before I start, I would like to state my intentions. I want to start a reasonably long thread intended to help new users with getting good print results directly after assembly. If you think this thread should be moved to a different category please let me know. Assembly: You are given a bag of silver grub screws. Replace the black ones in your pulleys with those. Pre-print Calibration: Before you even try to print anything, make absolutely sure your sliding blocks are aligned. (there are plenty of threads to learn to do this) Make sure belts are also reasonably tight. Tighten heated block and brass nozzle so they cannot be moved with a light push. This will help prevent molten PLA from leaking through the threads. When it comes to the online directions' version of bed leveling, ignore it and go directly to Cura's bed leveling wizard. This is much faster and easier. Post-print Calibration: The Ultimaker is a fantastic machine. However, you can make it much easier to use by fixing a few of its very minor downfalls. The first fix I recommend to print is this part: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:62819 This is a z axis end switch precision calibration device that mounts to the back of your machine and makes getting your z axis exactly .1mm away from the nozzle much easier. Next I recommend printing this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:69327 This is an improved fan duct that will replace the sub-par one which was included. This will immensely reduce warping and increase overall print quality. Last, I recommend printing this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46157 This is a retraction clip that will help give you more accurate retraction and prevent play in the bowden tube mount on the extruder. Other tidbits: Use wider masking tape (2" or greater). This will make for less tape lines, greater adhesion, and faster taping. Wipe your taped print bed with isopropyl rubbing alcohol. This will also help with adhesion. Store all PLA filament you are not using in a sealed container with those silica packets to suck out the moisture. You may want to print a new spool holder if you buy anything but Ultimaker filament. Other companies that I have seen all use spools with smaller holes that will not fit with the current spool holder. Well, I can't think of anything else off of the top of my head so all I can say in addition to what I already have is just to have fun. Hope my little guide helps.
  15. I am trying to mass-produce a certain part and I am having issues with the fan. The first part prints like any other part would: fan turns on after first layer and remains on for the rest of the print. The subsequent parts printed don't get the same luxury. The fan turns off for the first layer of the next object's creation but never turns back on. Any ideas? Any help is appreciated.
  16. Is there an .stl file for a fan duct that anyone particularly recommends to help with the aforementioned overhangs? I am currently getting good results with http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:69327.
  17. Im pretty sure it is the diameter of the smallest part of the opening of the nozzle.
  18. You may have a temperature problem. I agree with Nicolinux, try a different filament and compare. Are you sure it is PLA? A bit of a dumb question but ABS has a higher melting point. Try raising temp to 245. Try increasing extrusion amount in Cura. Try smaller layers. Make sure your hot end is as hot as the thermocouple says it is. Sometimes, it can be a little off or the fan might be cooling it down. Just some suggestions. Hope they help.
  19. Orient your spool in such a way that when the extruder pulls filament through, the spool will rotate counter clockwise. This will help for two reasons: There is less room for the filament to wonder. You are not forcing the filament to bend in the opposite direction that it was previously bent, thus eliminating bending to the side. And as previously stated, make sure there is no slack at all. Following this, I have never had any issues.
  20. Yes, retraction distance is the distance the filament is moved by the extruder gear in mm. However, this will not be exactly the case on the hot end. Filament will not necessarily move (for example) 4mm on the hot end side when the gears move it 4mm because of things like play in the bowden clamps and slight room in the bowden tube etc.
  21. Im currently trying this brand called Reprapper. Good color and quality for a reasonable price. The color I am using now has a bronze and glossy appearance. No complaints yet.
  22. Just probably a machining factor on the pulleys. The teeth may not be very smooth and rob a little rubber off of the rubber teeth of the belts. A agree with the others though, not an issue worth fixing or even giving any thought.
  23. If you are not using a brim, be sure to pre-extrude until you have a consistent stream of molten plastic coming out the nozzle. First layer is very important.
  24. Have you every tried THF vapor baths? If so, do you know an inexpensive place to buy it?
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