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aaron

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Everything posted by aaron

  1. I will have to try storing it in a sealed box. I stored it in open air but I had at the time only owned the machine for a week or two. While observing consistent quality, I switched to my new PLA and that alone fixed many cosmetic issues. Considering this, I don't think it is a storage issue... yet. However, I do agree with Nick, gray PLA may just be an avoidable filament in general.
  2. I believe it is called Ultimaker Grey or something of the sort.
  3. I am a big fan of Ultimaker. However, I have found that the included PLA is sub-par. I was having issues with quality while using the included spool. When I began using my new filament, all of my quality issues were fixed (overhangs and stringing). Has anyone else found this to be true?
  4. Greater infill or greater top/bottom thickness are the ways to fix this. Keep in mind, with settings similar to yours, the filament has nothing to hold it up for the brief period when it is still liquid. In order to stop this, there must be support for the molten plastic. Either a build-up of layers (top/bottom thickness) or more infill. Hope this helps.
  5. Okay, thanks guys. This will probably prove helpful in the long run.
  6. This is a bit of a stupid question but I can't quite figure it out. What exactly does the fix horrible setting do? Any replies to cure my ignorance is appreciated. Thanks.
  7. I like the way you mount your syncs onto your motors. The heat syncs I have won't quite mount that way though. Do you by chance know the name of the aforementioned adhesive?
  8. I had this exact same problem. It was benign at first but eventually began to grow into such a lake that it would trickle down the side of the heating block and off of my hot end into the print which would mess it up in some situations. The easy fix for this with the old nozzle was to pump some ABS through it but with the newer version of the hot end, it is much easier. All you need to do is to heat the hot end to around 220 degrees Celsius, take two pairs of pliers, use one to grab the PEEK and the other to grab the block. Hold the block while you rotate the PEEK toward yourself until it is tight. But be careful! Brass is not very strong and I have seen many people snap their brass tube inside their heating block. Anyway, I tightened mine just as I explained and not a drop has shown itself. Hope this helps. Good luck :wink:
  9. Drafts or air from the fan may be causing heat to dissipate from the hot end inconsistently thus creating a situation where the thermocouple cannot keep up with the changing temperature. It is unlikely this is the problem but I hope this helps a little if any.
  10. I agree with Sander. Learning to use one extruder is a bit of a learning curve. To add another would mean a lot of tweaking and that would be difficult for a new user. Dual extrusion allows for two colors in one print or one color per print. If I were you, I would wait until Ultimaker and the community work out all of the bugs. By then, you will be very familiar with your machine. Hope this helps. :grin:
  11. Great ideas. Just wondering, how do you guys recommend I mount heat syncs to the x and y motors? Is there some sort of thermal-conductive adhesive I can apply?
  12. I found this a little bit of an issue as well. I found that there are guides for after-assembly located in the main page of the Ultimaker Wiki. Also, for those who are new to 3D printing do not have an Ulticontrolller, a way to heat the nozzle in order to remove/change filament is to open Cura and set tempurature to 0, open a window for a print but don't initiate it, and use the temperature control to bring the nozzle to temp.
  13. Thank you for that. What do you guys think about chemical treatments? BTW, are there any other fillers that you know about that would be good for suspending a weight for example in the middle of a hollow object? Thanks again.
  14. Hello all, I am just hoping to get some information about enhancing the outer appearance of printed parts composed of PLA plastic. If anyone has any ideas, or has better luck at research than I do, I would like to know the following: how to polish (remove layer lines) how to finish or add a clear coat that reacts well with PLA (a chemical to add a shiny surface?) how to seal holes, cracks, etc. Any discussion on this is appreciated. Thanks.
  15. Just to throw in my two cents, I cave mine all as tight as they will go and do not have any friction issues. There is a small thread about friction and alignment here if it helps: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2589-axis-alignment-problem/ (please read to the end)
  16. I have an issue with the one-at-a-time mode of printing multiple objects. Whenever I print two object (or more), after completing the first print, my hot end will somehow hit the first print and drag it with it to the area for the next print. The last time this happened, I lost both of my prints (duh) and had to completely re-level and adjust everything because the hot end literally smashed into the part it dragged. Is there any way I can make it stop this without going to all-at-once mode? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
  17. The most I can say without pictures is that you should make sure that you have the correct blocks on the correct rails. The clamp that holds the smaller rail should be on the same plane as the larger rails on which the blocks are mounted on. As for the alignment, reference the thread started right before this one in the assembly category. (At least peruse the whole thread) Hope this helps. Please post pictures so we can help you more.
  18. Also, keep in mind that no matter how you exert force onto the moving parts (either by the hot end unit or by the sliding blocks), you will not be feeling the friction caused only by the bearings on the hot end unit and the sliding blocks. You will either, depending on whether or not you have all of the pulleys tightened, be feeling the kinetic friction between the pulleys and the larger rails to which they are attached in addition to the friction of the bearings or you will be feeling the resistant force of the motor. Both scenarios will create an illusion of greater friction than is actually present. Other than that, all I can say is what everyone else has said: be sure sliding blocks are aligned exactly, be sure belts are not too tight, be sure end caps are not exerting too much (or any) friction on the rods, and perhaps make sure your bearings pressed in the frame are strait? I fiddled with this a bunch and found that the blocks can be tightened a bunch without over tightening the belt. I have all of my blocks clamped all the way and dont have any friction/overheating issues. Hope this helps a little if any.
  19. I have had a similar problem but not as extreme as yours. This also only happens when I am using lower temperatures (195-205). What I usually do is preheat the hot end manually and let is sit for a few seconds. Then I use the jog function to manually extrude until there is a steady stream of molten plastic extruding from the hot end. It prints fine from there. Also, be sure that the spring on your extruder screw is compressed between 11 and 11.5mm. Hope this helps. Good luck.
  20. Well, I checked the gear and there were no scratches on it. I ended up moving the tube around a little and then replaces the shim. Now it is quiet again. Still not sure why it still had some play, but I am glad it is stationary now. Thanks for the quick and helpful responses. Much appreciated.
  21. There isn't much room at all. I spaced the mesh so that the teeth were only .5mm apart. I still think that it is the tube moving just a little in the housing. I think this because it would make a worse sound before I printed the shim. I could even see when the noise would start and stop. When it retracted, the tube would move up a little and make the screeching noise. Then, when it extended, the tube would move back down and make a similar noise. Any way I can make it stop omitting such a terrible noise or hold it place better?
  22. Thank you guys for the quick response. I will be sure to consider all of this. Going out to buy some alcohol today for the masking tape.
  23. I have read other posts but I have not seen an issue exactly like mine. I am having slight retraction issues (like many others on these forums). The cause of it is on the feeder end (cold end). I have printed the shim found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46157/#instructions It still has some play and every time it retracts, it makes a grinding/screeching sound similar to that of a rocking chair. Does anyone else have this issue? Is there a way to orient the tube to fix this? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
  24. I am new to this hobby and need a bit of help. I got the Ultimaker because it was rated the most accurate out of a pool of many. My prints right now are okay but they are not as gorgeous as the ones everyone displays that they printed with their Ultimaker. So here are my questions: Do you recommend using Cura? Is there a better program? Is there a guide somewhere giving detailed fixes to certain problems with a print (ex. higher temp affects aspect 1 and feed rate affects aspect 2) Does anyone have any helpful tips that they think could help? How do you get rid of the string trail the hot end drags with it everywhere when it prints. This is also a little unrelated but I am having an issue with brown liquid plastic oozing out of the threads of my heated block and nozzle. How can I fix this? Any response is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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