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Dim3nsioneer

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Posts posted by Dim3nsioneer


  1. Although you consider the possibilty of your error 18 not to be related to the firmware upgrade as small I think that indeed they just accidentally popped up around the same time.

    Please check the forum here for error 18 related topics. Unfortunately, I do not have a link at hand right now. Re-mounting the print head cable on the print head solves the promlen in almost every case.


  2. 3 hours ago, stoopslife said:

    Updated firmware a few days ago, and now I'm having WiFi issues.

     

    I sometimes see that too on my UM3 with fw 5.2.8. But a factory reset seems to cure that problem.


  3. This post has to start with a strong disclaimer. What I will present below is a very dirty hack and to be considered extremely experimental. People who perform the described changes on the firmware 5.2.8 are doing this on their very own risk. I have just quickly tested this on an Ultimaker 3 and it worked for me but it might brick your printer.

     

    As we know there is a bug in firmware 5.2.8 which makes the printer retract both filaments before starting a xy calibration such that it prints the first block out of thin air instead of plastics.

    The logic behind this hack is to bring the (or some) firmware code in question back to what was e.g. in firmware 5.1.7 for the S5.

     

    First, you have to login into your printer (people who know what they are doing know how).

    Then you have to edit the file "generateXyTestPattern.py" in the folder "/usr/share/griffin/griffin/printer/procedures/wizard":

    line 206: replace "strategy=1" with "strategy=0"

    line 213: comment that line out

    line 225: replace "strategy=1" with "strategy=0"

    line 229: comment that line out

     

    Then you must perform a factory reset so these changes become effective.

    The printer then prints the calibration pattern correctly right from the start. However, the prime blobs it creates do not stick well to the glass and might be drawn around.

     

    And in order to repeat: It's not recommended to do this for standard users but maybe for one or the other here who likes to hack and accepts the risk to brick the printer.


  4. 7 minutes ago, RamiR9 said:

    I can only buy a third party enclosure or build one.

     

    I'm sure you were informed about the advanced 3D printing kit for the Ultimaker 3? It also includes a front cover.


  5. Maybe this is an information that helps not just Bobby:

     

    Ultimaker seemed to have changed something in the logic of the active leveling frequency setting on the UM3.

    Until firmware 4.3.3 the logic was that while "never" was selected, active leveling data from the last probing was still used for compensation. Since firmware 5.2.8, compensation is fully switched off while printing with the "never" option. So for those with an Ultimaker 3 and the leveling freqency set to "never" who have problems with the nozzle-to-bed distance, please make sure, you manually level the buildplate correctly or switch to a different leveling frequency settings like "every week".

    • Like 1

  6. 1 hour ago, bsaygan said:

    nozzle was too close to the plate and not allowing for any extrusion to happen besides a super super fine layer that you couldn't see

     

    Hi Bobby, in case you have an Ultimaker 3 and active leveling set to never, try a different option there. If it still prints too close to the buildplate, please check the capacitive sensor with the new diagnosis tool.

    • Like 1

  7. Whether it is repaired under warranty or not can also depend on the condition of the silicone nozzle cover and on the fact if it was mounted correctly. So regularly checking that one and replacing it if it is damaged not only helps to avoid discussions about warranty but effectively protects your printhead from being flooded. Checking once a month is good for regular PLA printers, if you print materials with a higher printing temperature you may want to check it even more often.


  8. Good thing about Cura and its detailed settings is that you don't have to set values for them - unless you have to (for individual objects or materials).

    Detailed settings start with the default settings if you switch over. And they stay like this independent of whether they are visible or not. If you set a different value in one or more detailed settings, you override the default setting.

    As you pointed out, you may use only a few of them and don't want the others to be visible. For that purpose you can use one of the presets from the three-line-menu right of the search box. You can also set your own visibilities by using the visibility dialog started by clicking on a cog symbol at the header of each category of settings. If you like a certain visibility setting so much that you want to save it you can use the "Custom Setting Visibility Set Creator" plugin by @ahoeben (to be installed from the Marketplace).

    For what all the different settings do you get a tooltip if you hover with the mouse over it. If that is not clear enough, there is a plugin called "settings guide" that currently did not yet make it into version 4.0 but is made by the Ultimaker devs so I guess/hope it will soon be in the Marketplace again.

    Finally, or as for the time being, you find a lot of explanations (actually the content of the settings guide) here: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/manuals/software

    The pages for Cura 4 are filled day by day I think but a majority of the settings are already documented under Cura 3.

    I hope this helps you (and others) to find your way through the Cura detailed settings. And don't forget, you still can use the default settings and don't have change anything (for standard materials and many objects).

    • Like 1
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