Dim3nsioneer

Did you switch on the fan? Also with just a tiny airflow you can raise the heat transfer rate easily by a factor of something like 6 compared to air in rest.

Maybe the 'old' M codes work if the flavor is set to 'RepRap'? I could imagine that the flag ';UltiGCode' defines the set of codes used by UM2Marlin. But it's just a shot in the dark, without having a serious look at any Marlin code... But for the time being it might be a way to use the plugin?

There was an issue with the package, see https://github.com/daid/Cura/issues/699. That's why the download link was withdrawn by Daid.

Hi together There are new versions of two Cura plugins. I guess I don't have to introduce the 'Tweak At Z' plugin, it is well-known. Version 3.1-test brings the following modifications: - It is now possible to tweak the fan speed too - It is now possible to select the tweak height alternatively by layer number instead of height in mm. - The plugin recognizes UltiGCode. In this case the plugin does not reset tweaked values when a second object is started during the same print job. - It should be a bit faster than the previous version. The download link can be found on the http://wiki.ultimaker.com/CuraPlugin:_TweaktAtZ. I would be happy to receive some feedback from those who use the test version. In a positive case I can remove the test label soon and update the Wiki page. The second new version is for the plugin 'Combine While Retracting'. Maybe some of you have not yet heard of that plugin. It is about preventing combing on horizontal top layers which results in nasty lines on the finished print. A first test version has been published in http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3763-improving-surface-finish/ which was the origin of that plugin. A description of the plugin can be found in the http://wiki.ultimaker.com/CuraPlugin:_RetractWhileCombing. You will also find the download link there. Please note: the version labelling follows the same logic as the version labelling for Cura, but it will not necessarily be updated when a new Cura version is out (unless there is a reason to update it). Issues and suggestions for future development are welcome either https://github.com/Dim3nsioneer/Cura-Plugins/issues or in this thread. Enjoy the new versions!

The slicer software which could do such corrections automatically would wipe all other slicer software away... (@Daid: I'm aware that this is very far away! :smile: ) But just imagine...

This might be achieved in some cases with a combination of the TweakAtZ plugin and another plugin (post 13 in this thread). Depends on the geometry.

Is it possible that the upper z end switch shifted down somehow? Then the stage would stop earlier which would result in a large distance between nozzle and bed.

If the knurled nut is zinc-plated and the screw is made out of stainless steel then the knurled nut will soon show rust when the two are kept in an environment with high humidity. It's a question of the standard electrode potential.

Apart from being a really bad story which causes much trouble and costs it is somehow a prove that the UM2 is a useful product for which some people are even taking substantial legal risks. Most likely they will appear one by one somewhere like Ebay making it difficult to identify by the serial number before purchase.

If you don't find any connective problems: I had a similar issue when I once ran the Cura installation test wizard on my UM1. None of the end switches responded After restart of - if I remember correctly - both PC with Cura and Ultimaker it worked as it should have.

If possible, add some centimeters to the round part (where the fan is mounted). The axial fan will show a bit more power. Well, actually, you will loose less power as the setup induces a really huge pressure drop. Don't be disappointed if you don't get any air out of the slit. At least you will certainly hear the fan... :wink:

Ultimaker-Somnambulism...

It's up on Youmagine: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bearing-adapter-for-direct-drive-um-original

I did the same with the original rods and for one the straightness could be better... There is a BOM but it says nothing about detailed specs.

two more things to check: - are the belts tightened? - are the belts too tight? You would hear a quite loud noise from the stepper motors when they skip steps. What size are the shifts? cm? mm? tenths? A picture of the shifted print might help to find the source...

If a status display on a product tells you to contact the company then you probably should do that. Just http://support.ultimaker.com/index.php?/Tickets/Submit. You can raise the priority of the ticket. If Ultimaker support tells you that everything is ok and you can run it, you're fine. The UM2 has a CE declaration. This means it is declared to be safe under certain conditions (see warnings, notes and info messages in the UM2 manual). It's not possible to say a device is safe per se. If you put an Ultimaker into a haystack you don't have to wonder about setting the haystack at fire. If you put it into a room with just concrete walls, floor and ceiling where's nothing which can burn, it is extremely safe (overkill). The safety of the device (up to a well-defined level) is Ultimaker's responsibility (because of the CE declaration). To run it safely in your environment and taking error messages seriously is yours.

The sleep message usually appears if a layer doesn't reach the minimum layer time and the cool head lift feature in Cura's expert settings is enabled. Sometimes messages just stay longer than they should.

Depends on what the parts of the 200°C hot nozzle are landing on...

I remember a post not too long ago (I can't remember by whom) of a quite serious happening. The print was delaminating and the print head got entangled into the plastic nonsense and got stuck. The result was a broken nozzle which made a quite loud noise. That was with a UM1, I think.

Is this a new kind of arm wrestling? :grin: Are the distances of the extruder screw and the adjustments of the stepper drivers known for these values?

This is a quick picture of the adaptor itself including the bearing and two M3 hex nuts. I may put the design onto Youmagine but for that I'll have to shoot some pictures of the piece actually mounted. EDIT: You will also need http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:54075 for fixation of the rod... And as it is: just five minutes after having implemented this work-around I got an offering for longer rods with a straightness of 0.02-0.04mm... :wacko:

It works. I designed a nice adapter which relocates one bearing by something like 16-18mm. On second try I managed to print it in exactly the right size for the bearing. I just printed the first backlash test piece with direct drive on both axis. I have now a resdiual backlash of incredible 50um on each axis. I'm actually very happy that I got rid of the short belts. Quality is greatly improved! :smile: :smile:

Yes, it is traffic red. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26334is the model (one piece of the four, but they look the same in terms of print quality).

You found it... :wink: The plugin doesn't change any F-commands. But if you have set the flavor to 'RepRap' and put a different setting into the 'Flow' box in the basic settings tab in Cura, then this will change the F-Codes. So if you want to start with e.g. 90% and then switch to 100% flow, you should not put the 90% into the flow box but add a M220 S90 statement in your start.gcode. Or you put the 90% flow into the basic settings and put 111% into the plugin flow box in order to get again 90% * 111% = 100%. I guess I just have removed any clearness... :wacko:

At which height do you want TweakAtZ to change the speed? EDIT: Sorry, I overlooked the 5mm... So you put 32.5 into the speed box, correct? There are other people claiming Cura doesn't execute a plugin or that it works sometimes and sometimes not. The only thing I can recommend from the distance is to close Cura, reopen it and check it again.