Dim3nsioneer

A design published under a CC license might help nobody else can patent it as it is state of technology then.

@kmanstudios: I think nobody is talking about patenting something. Please don't create rumors here. It seems some additional communications in an early stage of the feature implementation would have been at least appreciated. In this sense: (from the Cura 2.5.0 startup dialog) However, afaik @Neotko will be mentioned in the release notes as the source of the idea or similar. I'm also confident the persons involved in the issue will find a way to get along with it. edit: ... and with each other, please...

Alors, choisis...

@pixl2: As far as I remember, the BOM recommends superglue; a standard all-purpose glue might not be sufficient. Concerning the Mark2 essential kit: distribution of this kit is making progress. For the moment, the easiest way to get one is to get in contact with @DidierKlein (for EU countries), @gr5 (Americas) or @Dim3nsioneer (Switzerland). If you live outside those regions, just get in contact with the guy of your choice. Up to a certain level, all three might be able to provide shipping into other areas. At some point, @Foehnsturm might also put some links on the website www.magnetic-tool-changer.com.

C'est peut-être mieux de contacter @Didierklein en direct pour le kit essentiel (France+Benelux) et moi pour la Suisse Romande. Et @gr5 pour Canada.

Die Auswahl im UM3-Menu dient der ungefähr richtigen Temperatur des Cores beim Laden des Materials. Nimm dort also einfach ein Ultimaker Material, das in der Nähe liegt. In Deinem Fall sollte CPE funktionieren. Die Druckeigenschaften inkl. Drucktemperatur werden komplett in Cura definiert. Wenn Du Dir ein neues Materialprofil in Cura anlegst und Deinen Drucker übers Netzwerk verbunden hast wird Dich Cura fragen, ob Du die Einstellungen des Druckers übernehmen möchtest. Da einfach konsequent Nein dazu sagen, sonst hast Du dann das CPE-Profil in Cura geladen statt Dein eigenes. Geht im Moment meines Wissens nicht anders.

The Ultiboard 2.x is a non-public spare part i.e. you have to contact an Ultimaker partner when you want to buy one. This is btw a good way to find out if a certain shop is rather a box mover or a full Ultimaker reseller.

To anyone reading this post later: If you have firmware 3.6.2 on your UM3, please upgrade to 3.6.3. or higher. There is indeed a bug in 3.6.2 for the USB stick recognition.

@Yves: Multiple Ultimaker partners in Switzerland do sell Ultimaker material. I'm sure you will find at least one who sells it on UM3 spools. edit: If not, you may have a look at http://www.dim3nsions.ch/filament/ultimaker-materialien.html

Hast Du Dich vor dem Kauf des UM3 bei einem Ultimaker-Händler informieren bzw. beraten lassen?

Wieviele Cold pulls hat Dein Druckkopf schon durch?

What's exactly wrong with the small ring? Are you not satisfied with the quality?

I'm not a fan of mechanical tools to get prints off the glass. Usually, I put the glass into the freezer for an hour if I used some adhesion agent. People who are in a hurry should get a second glass plate for fast exchange. The active levelling of the UM3 makes the swap quite easy. In this special case I guess the glass just had some weaknesses. I expect you to have less problem with the replacement you got.

I would say impossible. Layer height changes during the print have to happen in the Curaengine. But as far as I know flexible layer height is not the point on the Cura todo list with the least priority...

Can you drive the print head right to the front without colliding with the door?

It is in Cura 2.5 beta and will therefore most probably be in Cura 2.5.

It might come from too high tension in the long belts in your case. I see you use belt tensioners on all long belts. They are not necessary as there is a strong spring inside the sliding blocks providing the tension. If you think the tension is not equally distributed on one belt, untighten one pulley of that belt, move the printhead about three times in each direction of that belt and re-tighten the pulley again. Be careful that the axis the pulley sits on does not have any play afterwards.

Looks to me like a bad bed leveling...

Make sure there is nothing between glass and heater pcb of the bed. Small particles, e.g. from pva after taking the glass out, can have this effect.

You should make up your mind about what's your primary focus with the printer. Do you want to tweak the machine, try experimental setups? Then go for the UMO+. If your aim is to produce a lot of nice prints with different materials then choose the UM2+.

Die Wärme und die Reibung führt zu Verschleiss. Falls ein Core aber nur ein paar Stunden durchhält und nicht irgendwie extrem abrasives Filament o.ä. verwendet wurde, sind die Chancen auf Kulanz recht gut. Übersetzt mit Google Die meisten Ultimaker-Händler werden sicher gesunden Menschenverstand anwenden und einen Garantiefall anerkennen auch wenn z.B. anderes hochwertiges Filament gedruckt wurde. Solche Formulierungen sind natürlich ein Schutz gegen ungerechtfertigte Forderungen, die es halt immer mal wieder gibt. Wenn jemand ein Material verwendet, welches das Hotend völlig verklebt, dann ist das halt nicht in der Verantwortung von Ultimaker. Und es gibt einen schlauen Punkt, wo die rechtliche Linie gezogen werden kann; der ist beim eigenen Filament. Fremdfilamente müssten sonst zertifiziert werden. Und das öffnet ein sehr weites Feld der Probleme...

I guess you cannot squeeze enough material through a 0.4mm core to print a 0.8mm line at 0.4mm layer height? btw... wouldn't a 0.4mm wide line be enough for infill?

Die Cura-Standardeinstellungen sind inzwischen recht gut. Ev. die Geschwindigkeit etwas zurücknehmen. Ansonsten findest Du auf der Ultimaker-Seite hilfreiche Tipps dazu: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23003-how-to-print-and-store-pva

@Produktdesigner: Vielleicht helfen Dir die Angaben zum TPU95A von Ultimaker: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/22235-how-to-print-with-ultimaker-tpu-95a Noch flexibleres Material druckt sich am besten mit einem Tröpfchen Oel auf dem Filament. Dabei unbedingt ein Oel mit hohem Rauchpunkt nehmen und nicht in den Feeder tropfen! Das Material der Bowden Tube ist übrigens für alle Ultimaker Maschinen das gleiche: PFA - wie @swordriff schon angemerkt hatte..

In addition to @ultiarjan's post I can say that the resistance in the bowden tube of newly unpacked machines is a bit higher due to small curvatures of the bowden coming from the packaging. If there is a hard bend in it, it has to be replaced. Otherwise it will get better with time and can be worked-around by increasing the pressure inside the feeder for a limited time.