Dim3nsioneer

Also mit Home vom Ulticontroller bzw. einem 'G28 Z0' Befehl sollte die z-Achse schon auf 0 (bzw. die erwähnte Papierdicke im kalten Zustand) bringen. Was zeigt denn der Ulticontroller als z-Position an, nachdem er in die Homeposition gefahren ist?

@frederiekpascal: @SandervG is on holidays as far as I know. Maybe you want to check ideato3d.be, the webshop of @DidierKlein, who is a 3dSolex reseller. The TFT from 3dSolex is equivalent to the TFM from Ultimaker. Just for the case you don't easily get the TFM.

You may google the Ultimaker corporate design manual.

Well it would need some adapting parts to mount an Olsson block to an UMO+. However, mounting the complete UM2+ head from the upgrade kit as @Neotko did is maybe much easier.

@lance-green: Have a look at the new Matchless nozzles for the V3 block. They (the nozzles) come in sizes up to 2mm.

Btw: What strange kind of scale is it? 1:693 ?

Reine Erfahrung und Ausprobieren.

Maybe you mean the skirt which makes sure the hotend is well primed. But maybe you could post a picture and show us what exactly you mean?

So habe ich die Distanz gemessen. Scheint eine kleine Änderung bei der Unterlagsscheibe gegeben zu haben.

And I still have a lot of 'unread' links which lead to anything but the first unread post.

Ich hatte den Mechanismus anders im Kopf. 13mm ist sogar ziemlich wenig Druck. Ich habe bei mir im Moment 10.7mm. Allerdings habe ich schon festgestellt, dass der Hebel manchmal etwas verkeilt und daher sich gar nicht immer frei öffnen lässt.

It might reduce temperature locally a bit and you might get adhesion issues. I would try to sand it with some very smooth sanding paper. Be carefull not to bend the heater PCB.

Chances are good it will overheat. You mounted an axial fan into a radial fan case. But it's still an axial fan. Radial fans have completely different wheels, see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centrifugal_fan.

Quite a number of people had troubles with China cloned mainboards. The only working way out of it I know is the expensive one (buying the genuine Ultimaker board from a reseller).

Ja, ich meinte das Drücken in negative Richtung = ziehen .... Ich müsste jetzt mal bei mir nachmessen, aber 13mm scheint mir doch recht viel. Brauchst Du soviel Druck? Schon mal mit etwas weniger versucht? Du würdest ev. das Filament weniger deformieren und hättest dann weniger Hänger im Bowden Schlauch.

Sehr interessant. Ich habe die Schraube etliche Umdrehungen drin und brauche nur auf den Hebel zu drücken um das Filament rauszuziehen. So wäre es ja eigentlich gedacht. Nur bei Flex-Filament muss ich etwas mehr anziehen. Arbeitest Du mir relativ dickem Filament? Dazwischenklemmen tut nix, oder?

@zerspaner_gerd: Entfernen des Materials geht bei Dir nicht alleine durch Anhaben des QR (=Quick release) Hebels?

And the simulator must have a 100W heater for the hotend... @ultiarjan: I agree with you if one has an advanced user in mind who controls the parameters through the print. However, I think the OP had in mind to make the paths shorter. And this design is much less language based.

On the profile page you have two selections. The first one, which says 'all' by default lets you restrict the entries to a category, e.g. 'prints'. That should be what you are looking for, right?

Maybe this one helps?

Hmm... in this case a screen saver function would be nice... what do you think, @Tinkergnome?

Ultimaker would provide a replacement if the printer is new. Through the distribution network. So the best you can do is to contact the reseller you bought it from. Maybe he is generous enough to send you a replacement. However, I wouldn't count on it. So to print a spare of that part is maybe the faster and cheaper solution. You can find the step file here, where all the sources from Ultimaker are located. Or it should have been there if seven months ago it wouldn't have been overwritten with the wrong file. So until this is fixed, you have to use the old version.

Please check https://ultimaker.com/en/community/4630-has-anyone-tried-ninjaflex-filament-in-um-or-um2-yet or https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11399-did-a-20-hour-ninjaflex-print or https://ultimaker.com/en/community/21641-help-with-printing-ninjaflex or https://ultimaker.com/en/community/10445-problems-with-pla-flex or https://ultimaker.com/en/community/8165-printing-flexible-filament You can find them by Google search with 'site:ultimaker.com'...

You can also take the source file (step file), convert it to a STL and print it. Not the worst idea having a spare just for the case it really breaks. I think Ultimaker changed the plastic on the newer machines in order to avoid this effect. Anyway, check how tight the four long screws are. In the past there have been overtightened screws I was told.

CF20 is a very interesting material. It has the flexibilty of XT while it is significantly lighter. I printed myself a phone case out of this material (actually two cases) and couldn't get it to break even when I bended it almost 90 degree (and it is very light!). However, I printed it lying on the bed. I also tried to print a Fairphone case with it which is printed standing on the bed. The interlayer adhesion of XT-CF20 was not good enough, it broke. So in conclusion, it might get additional strength if the layer adhesion is secured by large overlaps of the individual layers but it cannot improve interlayer adhesion on small intersections. I printed the CF20 with a ruby nozzle.