Dim3nsioneer

@iroberti: Indeed very nice. Especially with the suspension. You used a relatively small layer height. Do you think this is an advantage? I did myself a few tests with HT clear and also got quite nice results (nothing to show off with so far...) but tried rather thick layers (0.2mm).

@3dimensionen: Gibt's da etwas Objektives, das diese Behauptung bestätigt?

Hmm. Simply making the longholes longer would do the job too, wouldn't it? Made that on my UMO. I'm actually more worried that one day the bed could miss the lever. Adding a spacer there is not possible due to the x-block. Btw. you should be aware that you are at a different height with the UM2+ head compared to a standard UMO+. I think I now what you mean. You want to drive the z axis further despite the z endswitch being hit. That's too dangerous IMHO. The endswitch should make the axis stop. Anyway the movement would be too unprecise as the hit point would be somewhere else each time.

There would certainly be people here who would print them...!

To be honest, I have no idea what you're talking about... could be me, sorry (on the other hand: what's the current temperature in Madrid...? ) I assume the labelled part is supposed to be the bed, correct? That top endswitch doesn't exist on an UM2, just one at the bottom... Anyway, an endswitch has a proper direction to be pushed which should noch be changed as the switch itself could block before switching.

Look for the swapatZ plugin.

https://www.freeform4u.de/ für Deutschland Weitere 3dSolex-Vertreter unter www.3dsolex.com

That seemed to be true last year, but several comparable new machines are priced at or slightly above the UM2+: Raise3D N2, BCN3D Sigma, 3DGence One, and Lulzbot TAZ6 are a few ...than other printers... not: than all other printers...

Well, white plastic gets brown with heat. That's normal. But of course one would not see it if the plastic would have a different color. That's maybe one reason why in the past all pcbs were green or brown...

Alles. Cura 2.1.2 ist eine komplette Neuentwicklung gegenüber den Legacy-Versionen.

Mine looks the same. I consider it as normal.

It's Dibond.

You mean the Olsson block that was packed with the Ultimaker2 between November 2015 and January 2016? There was no extra heater there but the machines had a 25W heater at that time.

Ist ja nicht nur für ABS wichtig. Auch z.B. Colorfabb HT mags über 100°C auf dem Bett...

15.04.x are the legacy versions. It's still the old interface not again...

Der real existierende Abstand ist grösser als der Abstand, der von Cura verwendet wird. Wie hoch ist das höchste Objekt?

Are you referring to an Olsson block bought from 3dSolex (or from one of their resellers) or to the UM2+ upgrade kit from Ultimaker? The latter has a 35W heater included. But you can measure the resistance R of the heater and then calculate the power by 24V x 24V / R.

It's true that Ultimaker products are more expensive than other 3D printers. But things like this forum or Cura also have to be financed somehow. Furthermore, Ultimaker really cares about their users.

As far as I know there is no Flex-PLA from Ultimaker. Maybe it's a different brand you mean?

Die Option Nacheinander drucken wird von Cura ignoriert wenn die Höhe mindestens eines Objekts den Abstand zwischen Bett und schmalen Achsen überschreitet.

With simplify3d you can change the layer height at any height. This means fast printing for the lower layers and good resolution for the upper layers of a sphere-like object.

software.ultimaker.com

If Ultimaker stays with their habits concerning announcements of new or upgraded products, the website would be on maintenance for about 8-9h before an announcement (see UM2, UMO+, UM2+). So if you see that there is a new post in this thread you will always be disappointed... But: There have also been such maintenance times after which not a new product but new bugs of the forum were introduced (oops - did I just write this?).

Well now as the UM2+ files are out it should be possible to print a mirrored version of the feeder case?

in addition: - all three fans of the printhead are operational? Printing times of 30 hours and more are not uncommon, the machine can handle long prints without problems (if it is in a good condition...) In addition: - What's the temperature of the feeder motor after 4 hours? Can you still touch it? You may have to remove the white cover in the back left corner; two screws from outside...