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naz72

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Posts posted by naz72

  1. gr5,

    I checked that settings is enabled by default in Cura but still having that problem.

    Okay here is another problem that I need help with cause I don't know what exactly is causing it. It is related to the head parking location (0,0) x,y

    Whenever a print is done or I hit Home button in cura for (x,y) than there is weird noise which indicates that the stepper motor is still doing some kind of work, to get that noise to stop I have to hit -1mm in Cura for the y direction.

     

  2. Wow Naz that is some machine they have shipped you.. Have you had a reply to any support tickets you put in ?

     

    Mine arrived with the glass plate not in place, and my third fan is not working, I have put a support ticket in regarding the 3rd fan but no response....

     

    I have checked the plugs and wires by the print head and all seem ok, being new to 3d printers i was looking for ultimaker to support me further in trouble shooting the issue

     

    Cor3ys,

    Sander did offer to replace it but unfortunately that is another problem since I have to hand this one & wait a couple of days until I get the new one & I really don't have the time to wait, I have been waiting for a month since I ordered only to find that the printer ships on the 24th after I laced the order on the 1st, but I decided to stick with them.

    I did open a ticket but I never got a reply yet, only here on the forum.

  3. Not happy, really, I placed an order for Makerbot 2, since I needed two machine to work in parallel & that was my 1st choice but went with the Ultimaker 2. I have already the older Ultimaker & now this, so its time to compare in real world tests.

    will provide updates as I go along, since I'm a little ticked off right now to work on the printer, hopefully another day 7 another better luck :-P

     

  4. Some more updates, fans don't work after wire fix, have to check the connection to the PCB board.

    Another issue now is with Cura, retracting every second, too much retraction that it eventually stripped the filament & stopped extruding, have to save to stl 7 print directly from the printer to see if that is a Cura issue since I don't have retraction enabled.

    :sad: :sad: :roll: :roll:

     

  5. Its not really DHL as the machine didn't show any signs of bad handling, its defiantly the bad packing from the inside & this has to be unfortunately directed at Ultimaker, the Glass bed was completely loose & I'm glad it wasn't broken.

    Here is some more small issues that are really starting to get to me. one of the fan Cables is loose "Again". hope I don't face any other issue one this is fixed as I really waited long for this printer was looking forward to printing my new Transmitter design for my DJI S800 Evo.

    null_zpsee696416.jpg

    null_zpsd394c5e6.jpg

     

  6. Hi Naz,

     

    Inside the black wrapper just above the printhead are 3 connection points. You could check if those are all still properly attached. You could also check if the connection at the electronics are still connected.

     

    On another note, I have a hard time identifying the part you took a photo of.

    Can you make a picture with a wider angle?

     

    Sure I can, which photo are we talking about ?! The frame in the last pictures ? These are the cuts for filament holder.

  7. I finally upgraded from Cura 13.04. There is no way 13.10 should share almost the same version number!!

    On my first run I thought the time estimation was a bit gimmicky and didn't really need to be regenerated every time I moved the part a bit... I had no clue the new slicer, or any slicer, could be that fast ! Awesome job Daid! You should have bumped the version number up to 14 or 20 or something 'tho so I'd have upgraded sooner.

     

    I have to agree, the new Cura leaves everything else in It's dust and should have been bumped to 14.xxx.

  8. The temp setting can be changed under Customize, it's the same menu where you choose ABS and PLA, just scroll down, but before you customize you need to select ABS than go back to the menu & choose customize or you will change the PLA setting.

    And yes the default setting is too high for both in my opinion, ABS set @ 280c and I think PLA is 240c.

    210-220 is more than enough for PLA.

  9. I think I actually got a lemon, my bad luck, I know for a fact not all printers are coming out like that but never the less I wish someone had checked & made a better job at packing especially for us international users.

    some more photos

    null_zps19c1bc6b.jpg

    null_zps52fba7a1.jpg

    messing around with the printer a little & it seems both fans on the extruder side don't work at all. Again I have to dig into the printer & electronics to find out why & provide updates here.

     

  10. Another small issue, while the printer heats for the 1st time to load filament, it keeps heating & the extruder starts smooking a lot, so I look & it seems that the temp sensor is falling out of place from the back side.

    nothing that cant be fixed but still, this is getting annoying.

     

  11. The problem is fixed now after I removed the bottom cover that made that short. now the bed moves up & down & no more gridding sound.

    I also leveled the bed & passed step 4 but I still need these aluminum glass holders as paper clips are too thick & would hit the extruder.

    Lets just hope they do send them.

    P.S: Did they print that sample before or after fixing the cover ?

     

  12. Here are some pictures, also I decided to open the bottom cover, and guess what, it seems the cover pressed against the stepper motor wires & short them, see for your self. Very unhappy after all this headache of waiting for this printer.

    null_zps9a856c91.jpg

    null_zps65a03956.jpg

    Quality control !!

    null_zpsea8b39f8.jpg

    quick job in assembly to rush them out the door ?? round screw head ? not flat ?

    null_zpsed569ea4.jpg

    null_zpsc7239e7a.jpg

    short circuit (The movie) :p

    null_zpse9034a31.jpg

     

  13. I just received my Ultimaker 2 but on 1st inspections I realized that the glass bed has fell off during shipping, also the clips holding the glass bed was either bent or damaged, the other small problem was the use of rounded head screw instead of the flat head which of course made the glass bed not sit flush on one side.

    Again these are minor issues that I can fix & I already sent Nikki an email for some spare parts but the major issue I am having is this.

    When you start the U2 for the 1st time it needs to level the bed, unfortunately when I reach step 4/21 it freezes and wont allow me to turn the nob to lift the bed, nor will clicking the nob will do anything.

    So I try a couple of times to restart the machine and still gets stuck on that part, I tried with computer connected & without.

    Finally I try leveling the bed using Cura(latest) and choose Ultimaker 2 but while it tries to do that it crashes the bed to the extruder & I had to quickly shut it off.

    now after all this headache I manually turn the Z-ballscrew to get the bed a little down & fire up the Ultimaker again & now every time it tries to go through the leveling process and tries to move the bed down it makes a loud "Gridding sound" and it cant move except if I help it a little by pushed down on the bed.

    Again I try a couple of times & sometimes the bed moves a little & gets stuck again & still that loud gridding sound all the time.

    I would appreciate some help on how to get the bed moving smoothly again.

    CAUTION: NEVER use CURA to level your Ultimake 2 bed or it will crash.

    EDIT: I just realized that my bed always goes down & never UP !!??? what I mean is that when you turn that nob clockwise or anticlockwise the bed will move down only.

    Also I connected to Cura & hit print to be able to Jog the bed in the software & the same happens, if you hit +Z or even -Z the bed moves down only !?!?! wiring issues ?? someone in a hurry at Ultimaker.

     

  14. I agree, but in my case when I am designing a part than I have to take the measurements that work with many things & fits right & its a pain to alter these to get it to print well & than alter them again if I am sending them for CNC machining.

    Obviously the tweaks I am doing are only good for my printer but isn't that the whole point ? Ultimaker makes their printers to work for the general public but each one can fine tune his/her printer to work best for his/her job & that's what I am trying to do.

    This is a Magazine I just did that will be sent for CNC and the pellets has to fit just snug where they don't fall off nor do they get dent & shoot not straight & also the whole things has to be cycle well and there fore the tolerances has to be very tight, it would be a pain to change each & every dimension to print right & than re change them to send for CNC, and there is always a chance I forget to change a particular dimension.

    I would rather change my printer settings to get it as close as possible to my design & not the other way round.

    Its a given that PLA shrinks and many other factors but that's besides the initial point.

    steyr14shotmagazinedawing_zps31c25be0.png

    9e377a296b8ca37cc4a47ae66b997dc5_zps453f6066.jpg

     

  15. I strongly advise you not to mess with steps/mm as they are probably fine.

    The problem is that PLA shrinks when it cools (among other issues such that you might have only had 10 or 20 segments in your outer circle which also reduces the diameter).

    Much better to increase your CAD model outer diameter by 1.6% (80/78.74) or scale your object by 1.6% in Cura.

    You will have different scaling needs at different scales. So a part that is 100mm long will need much less correction than a part 10mm long. So "fixing" this with steps/mm will only work for parts that are about 27mm across and are cylinders. Other shapes might need slightly different scaling.

     

    Thank you gr5 & I appreciate your help & feedback but I will have to disagree with you here.

    Cause X/Y steps will obviously effect all X & Y and hence cylinders, squares & any other shapes & in fact I have already drawn a design in solidworks as can been seen below to check these & after measurement its much closer to the actual dimensions.

    I did measure all sizes for the below print but I didn't write them down.

    123_zps5c935bc7.png

    null_zpsa60fc9f7.jpg

     

  16. Okay, so I was designing a part in solidworks for my Steyr Hunting 5 and after measuring the actual print it seems its a bit off and I needed to correct that other wise I will have issues, so I played a bit with the X & Y steps/mm & here is what I came up with.

    The original part had an O.D (Outer Diameter of -27.25mm) (Inner Diameter of -7.7mm). Hope this helps some new users.

    e-steps-mm_zpsa340bb3f.jpg

     

  17. Nozzle is 0.4mm

    infill is 50%

    Top & Bottom are set same as layer size which is 0.15 for the last two cones.

    i do have the fan at full blast, if you guys have the time try printing that part is a small part, only the cone please.

    Also i don't understand why i need to increase layer time since it prints fine for the bottom part but i will give it a try, currently set @ 5 if i remember correctly.

     

  18. Oh - and I wouldn't print a new fan duct as the one the comes with the UM is really ideal. They tend to constrict air flow too much for the design of the current fan.

     

    But the original fan duct blows downs and not towards the layers laid by the extruder, so it doesn't cool them for the next layer !!?!?

    okay so you are correct about these vertical lines, here is a top picture view.

    I drew two red lines to indicate the infills.

    IMG_2525_zps449ac7bd.jpg

    The only other problem I am still having and something tells me it might be the part itself is the sagging in these pictures.

    so what I did is print these cylindrical shape twice using 198C and still the issue at the top, so I went ahead & flipped the part 180 degree and printed it again & the problem is now at the bottom, so I'm not sure if its an over extrusion issue, I have my flow set @ 100% and everything else prints fine, maybe I need to measure my actual filament(just did using calibers), so instead of using 2.89 its actually 2.94 but can that cause this problem.

    null_zps4f7eb509.jpg

    here it is printer upside down, can it be the actual model that has a problem ?

    null_zpsbd5b858d.jpg

     

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