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tommyph1208

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Posts posted by tommyph1208


  1. Its still called "All at once/One at a time", you have to enable settings visibility for Special modes in Preferences -> Settings visibility -> Special modes -> Print Sequence

    Then you'll find the slicing setting for for it in the Print Settings window (where you also set layer height, temperatures etc., its near the bottom under Special modes -> Print Sequence

     

     

    Capture.PNG


  2. I think still fairly few hobby printers have proper filament detection systems and ways of responding to eg. filament getting stuck or running out, and so I'm just gonna go ahead and assume that your printer dosn't have this.
    In which case, the answer is quite simple, the printer won't know that the filament has run out and no filament is being extruded, and so will just continue "printing" (ie. moving the printhead around and running the feeder), until it is done with the print... this will result in a model that is not fully done.
    Now, depending on the material you are using and whether or not the half finished print has detached itself from the print bed, it is possible to actually reload some filament and "resume" the print...

    The method is not trivial though, but it goes something like this:
    - Verify that the print has not detached from the print bed (do this WITHOUT touching or in other ways disturbing the bed, as it is very important that the print stays exactly in place)

    - Identify the layer at which filament ran out (eg., by counting printed layers, the more precise you can get it, the better)

    - Here comes the hard part...:
    You need to make a new slice of your model from the point where the previous one failed... There are several ways of doing this... From editing the gcode of the entire sliced model, to making adjustments in Cura to generate the desired code.
    My approach would probably be to:
    * Use the "cut off object bottom" option, to sink the print into the build plate until what remains above is what remains to be printed of your already half finished print. (you may also want to set an extra high temperature for your first layer, to make sure your resumed print bonds well to your existing failed and cooled down print, maybe even some increased flow for that layer, disable brims, skirts, rafts etc. - but you will have to do some manual cleanup of the print regardless).
    * Save the gcode and open it in a text editor to edit it... You want to remove the initial z homing procedure (for this you have to make yourself acquainted with the code commands, you can read about them eg. here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-code)
    * Now when starting the new print w. modified gcode, the printer won't home z... Before starting the print, you instead manually will have to adjust the bed so that the nozzle tip sits exactly at the height at which the previous print failed... Do this by grabbing hold of the printhead and moving it in over the failed print, the use small z movements to move the print bed up, until the tip of the nozzle, you should now be ready to resume the print.

    - Preheat the printer and load some new filament, making sure the filament is fully primed and has begun flowing from the nozzle
    - Start the print and cross your fingers... if everything goes well, the printer should home xy (but skip z), then move in and start printing on top of the half finished print...


  3. Your problem is with bed adhesion, potentially just caused by bad bed leveling... Looking at the first picture, your first layer isn't properly "squished" out and has not adhered to the bed, this will eventually cause the print to break off the bed and subsequent extruded filament to just print randomly in the air, which can lead to what you describe about it sticking to the nozzle.
    I don't know what printer you have, but you should run a bed leveling process, making sure than when the printer is homed in the z axis (ie. is at the height where the first layer would be printed, the nozzle should sit right at the bed surface regardless of where on the bed you move the printhead... Check the distance with a thin piece of paper, you should be able to drag it in between the nozzle and print bed, feeling some amount of resistance.
    Apart from this bed leveling you may wan't to look at different options for bed adhesion... There is a separate thread for all of this: Here

     


  4. 3 minutes ago, geert_2 said:

    Don't you have issues with edges of standard glass or mirrors curling up, due to the temperature differences between their upper- and bottom-sides? Standard glass has a much higher thermal expansion. Or is it more flexible, so its flexibility compensates for the curling up, and the clamps can easily keep it down?

     

    The PCB material is most likely fiberglass-filled epoxy indeed. Its natural colors usually range from brown-yellow, over pale yellow, to pale green. If the PCBs were manually cut to size, you should be able to see the glass fibers on the edges.

     

    Curling glass is not something I've noticed no... I used to hold it down with plenty of bulldog clips (I currently use 8 on the PCB plate)
    Regarding the PCB, I think you are right, there is definitely fibre structure when looking at the edges... I also believe the guy I bought it from sold it as epoxy-filled fibreglass pcb material... The colors you describe match very nicely as well... But seriously, can't recommend it enought. Great cheap alternative to FlexiPlate and all the other commercial flexible buildplates out there... obviously, I haven't tried them all, but hard to imagine them being much better, since I can't really find any flaws with the PCB material... Great durability too!


  5. I have tried a bunch of things over the years... From expensive borosilicate glass and BuildTak surfaces, to cheap IKEA mirrors, window glass and some PCB material which is what I'm currently using.
    So, first of all, I've found the expensive products Ive tried (dedicated borosilicate glass and BuildTak) to be unimpressive... The BuildTak I tried ended up having a print stuck so well to it, that the sheet ripped and was destroyed while removing the print.
    The borosilicate glass worked fine, but was eventually destroyed when I had used too strong a glue solution on top of it, and the print tore out chunks of glass when it was removed from the glass. I've later tried cheap window glass and mirrors, and they worked just as well... Never had a window glass or mirror shatter due to heat, so I'm not sure the borosilicate properties are really needed.
    I like window glass better of the two, since its easier to find or get cut to size.
    Currently I'm using a sort of PCB material, I'm not sure exactly what, but it seems to be some sort of fibreglass/epoxy mix and has a light brown/yellowish color... 
    I got it from some guy in a FB group that was offering to cut to size and sell them rather cheap, and its the best surface I've used yet...
    I use a little bit of wood glue and water when printing PLA, and a ABS slurry when printing ABS, and the prints stick WELL! Once the print is done and the parts cooled down, I can usually pry them off, sometimes lifting a corner with a knife.
    If this proves too difficult, I remove the bulldog clips holding the plate to my heatbed and just flex it, which pops the prints right off...


  6. If you are in the UK and looking into other hotend options, have a look at E3D... they are UK based and make quality stuff...
    If you are still using the original electronics, you could look into replacing those to give you a good base for expansions... I still run my UMO as well, and got tired of the 19V original electronics a long time ago... 
    I went with a RUMBA board and a big 24V power supply mounted under the printer which runs both the printer itself, LED lights and a 3rd party heatbed.
    Swap your stepper drivers with the silent stepstick types as well at least on the x/y axis... I run TMC2100, I know they now have a TMC2130 model... They are a bit expensive, but it is by far the most noise reducing upgrade you can make and is pretty simple plug and play.
    Here is a few pictures of my printer from its major rebuild some years back:
     

    1966330_10151918380130906_1379693428_o.jpg

    10295245_10152021381645906_1090675106202266111_o.jpg

    10293726_10152021760135906_7552226492455737574_o.jpg

    1956970_10152035210795906_8873371406331269073_o.jpg

    10257342_10152035215910906_5872379552081207668_o.jpg

    10257221_10152029059460906_4521432860653348174_o.jpg

    1015486_10152029059455906_5223080005327483608_o.jpg

    10380582_10152081936650906_8895819976030578455_o.jpg

    WP_20150520_001.jpg.ff110d23c10c034740808c06f52f8c46.jpg


  7. You can also get the arduino IDE and just build and upload a version of Marlin yourself... 
    You can find it on GitHub...
    I have previously used marlin builder tools as well, which basically lets you set up all the things you need in a nice layout without having to mess around in configuration files etc. There is a guide to that in the Tips and Tricks section on the Ultimaker website:
    https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20983-ultimaker-original-custom-firmware-builder


  8. There is (in theory) an increased precision to be gained by going from 1.8 degree to 0.9 degree steppers... I'm not sure it applies to practice though.
    By far the best way of reducing noise on the UMO is by changing the stepper drivers to silent step sticks (I use the TMC 2100 version, and saw there is now a TMC 2130 as well), search for it here on the forums. You mention yours is an UMO+, I'm out of the loop in terms of what electronics board is in that, does it use the UM2 board w. integrated stepper drivers? (if so, you obviously can't change them).

    As for changes in firmware if you were to change your stepper motors to 0.9 degree ones, all you have to do is double the steps/mm. for the axis where you changed motors.
    You can do this directly on the LCD smart controller if you have one of those...


  9. The first thing I would do was to measure the terminals for the hotend heater when the printer is supposed to be heating... Do you have power on that? If you do, either the hotend heater wire or heater itself is broken and you can just buy a new one for really cheap and replace it.
    If not, maybe the terminal is broken, but since you wrote that you updated the firmware, I think its much more likely an error in there... Where did you get the firmware from, can you send or post the configuration.h file?

     


  10. On 4/10/2018 at 11:07 AM, ataraxis said:

    hey @tommyph1208, I am re-animating my UMO at the moment and I really love that style!

     

    what kind of paint did you used? do you have a 3d file for the hotend mount? looks like one of those "integrated/minimalistic ones" but two-parted?

     

    thanks!

    Wow... I have not been in here in ages... Sorry about that, don't know if my input is still useful at all, but can't hurt to answer...
    I used regular glossy white spray paint for all the wood panels.... I found that it won't stick to the burnt sides, so those I base coated with some more matte wall paint I had standing around... I simply rubbed all the edges with a sponge with the wall paint on it. After that the spray paint adhered nicely to the sides as well...
    As with all spray paint work, many thin layers rather than one thick, is key to a good finish.

    I no longer remember where I got the E3D mount... I think actually a guy I know modified a model I found on thingiverse.


  11. As Sander mentions, maybe the filament is too thick and therefore has trrouble moving through the bowden tube... Did you try measuring it with calipers? It should be no thicker than around 2.9 mm. in diameter...

    If you open your feeder (unhook it so it dosn't grab hold of the filament) can you extrude manually by pushing the filament up through the tube? (hotend needs to be warm obviously)


  12. I've seen it done with older UM versions, and it worked fine (interesting vases came out of that)

    A few things you have to consider:

    1. Use filament with similar properties, diameter etc. preferably same brand in different colors, check diameter with digital calipers and enter the average in your slicer. Same goes for print temp (different colors often print best at different temps, so try and find a temperature that works for all)

    2. If you don't actually fuse the filament pieces together (quite some effort involved in that) retractions are obviously a no go...

    3. Without pauses to reload filament pieces or a long fused sting, you are somewhat limited in the amount of filament you can print (one full bowden tube worth)... That is why stuff like single walled vases works well


  13. I run SSSDrivers on my UMO, but am not aware of the issue (maybe that means I don't have it? Or as you also mentioned it, maybe I just accepted flaws like that, writing it off as the bed shifting slightly, or similar...

    Regardless I think the SSSDriver swap is a no-brainer for any UMO owner, as it just overall makes for a much nicer (primarily quieter) printer.

    You mention it being a stretch for your capabilities, but speaking from experience it is really not that difficult... There was a lot of confusion at first as to how to properly install them, but in the end they are extremely close to being a drop in replacement for the stock drivers (which I do believe are A4988 ).

    The current adjustments you are talking about are done on the drivers themselves with a little screwdriver... There are vias for measuring ref voltage with a multimeter on the driver as well, but you can also just go by the trial and error approach and adjust until they are running right.

    As for reversing axis you can get around the firmware update issue (if that frightens you) by simply turning the stepper motor cables 180 degrees.

    If you prefer one of your other solutions that depend on A4988 drivers, but are unsure the ones in your machine are A4988 or A4983, why not just buy a new set of A4988 and drop them in? They cost next to nothing... You will have to adjust current on those as well.


  14. It depends on a lot of things I believe... Your hotend looks like the stock one, what about your feeder?

    I ran 4,5 mm retraction at 60 mm/s retraction speed for a long time I think, but can’t really remember... I switched to E3D hotends long ago...

    Try playing around with the travel speed as well...

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