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tommyph1208

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Everything posted by tommyph1208

  1. No you cannot. You could if it was a thermistor, but for an RTD you really need an amplifier (E3D or other) Yes, that's what the cheap Asian upgrade kits are suggesting to do. Still, if you have a decent 24V power supply, why not powering the printer as well in 24V and connecting the bed directly on the board? (I think the STB55NF06L MOSFET should be able to drive the bed...) I belive the board has several components that aren't rated for more than 18V max... 12V converter being one.... I myself in the end opted to switch my board with a RUMBA which works great, has more options than the UM board and runs anything from 12 to 24V
  2. Seriously.... I had just written a lengthy response to this post, left my computer for a while, came back, finished and pressed "Post Reply"... Site goes to login screen and my post is gone.... Nice work UM
  3. You cannot directly decide where support is generated, for that you would have to disable automatic support entirely, and instead manually add it (model it into) your 3d model. I have however found that you can typically get fairly close to what you want, but playing around with the support settings, the "everywhere" or "buildplate only" options obviously, but also tweaking min x, y and z distances, as well as the support pattern and overhang angle required for support to be generated.
  4. Other things, apart from print temperature, that affects stringing: - Retraction speed( higher speed = faster removal of material from the nozzle = less stringing, but too fast and your feeder may skip or grind) - Retraction distance (higher distance = less stringing, as material is retractet further away from the nozzle, but too far may result in hotend clogs and or underextrusion when extrusion has to resume after a retraction/travel move) - Print cooling (better cooling = faster solidification of extruded material = less stringing and overall better print quality) - Travel speed (faster travel speeds = less tilme for material to exit the nozzle during the travel, = less stringing, but too fast and your machine may skip steps on the axis) - Print speed and layer height (lower speeds and layer height reduces pressure in the hotend melt chamber = less stringing)
  5. Yeah, the exact "science" behind it I don't know, but as mentioned above, it was something I picked up from Adam Savages (former Mythbusters) youtube channel... He is very into cosplay, props, model making etc. and amongst others do these "one day builds"... I got this from an episode where he did a prop rifle with some metallic effects on it.
  6. The filler i used was light brown/sand colored, so yes you would have to apply a black shiny primer on top before adding the gold... The black before the gold is something I picked up on Adam Savages (former Mythbusters host) youtube page. He is very into cosplay, props etc. and does these one-day builds of everything from workshop machines and items to cosplay armors, weapons and gadgets. I don't remember the brand of spray filler I used, but its doubtful you would be able to find the same type anyways, since I live in Denmark and you are from New Zealand... It doesn't get much further apart than that I would visit an auto-parts store and ask for it, see what they have... It looks and sprays like one of those spray-color cans, but is somewhat thicker. The one I used was intended for cars and similar to fill out dents etc. after eg. sanding away rust and before applying paint and varnish.
  7. You need some primer first, to smooth out layers and make the paint stick. I have previously had good results using first some spray-filler (for repair work etc.) to smooth out the print... The stoff layers into cracks nicely and sands well.. Then apply a black shiny primer before the gold finish
  8. I would go for a different hotend as @neotko also mentions below... Whether that should be the UM2 one as he suggests, I'm not so sure... I've been using E3D myself for a long time and they make a wide variety of super nice hotends and a shit-load of different sized nozzles in different materials.... everything you could ever want or need.
  9. While the UMO is manually assembled by the user, the actual design is not much different from the new models... Sure, they use some fancier materials (like the frosted plastic stuff in the sides and dibond frames) with a higher WAF, but in the end its just panels put together in a box shape, and some axis, pulleys, belts and motors fitted to them... There is no reason to think that you wouldn't be able to put your own machine together just as well as an Ultimaker employee, after all, you only have to assemble that one machine, and can take your time. The UMO is a wonderful and very sturdy machine, with great support to be found in the community and options for a wide variety of modifcations (I should know, I did quite a few myself). I do think, some of those modifications are needed if you want to print with more exotic materials, but the machine will still end up being much cheaper than the newer models. Now, when it comes to the UM3 (which is also the most expensive) there are quite a few changes like the dual extrusion head with the quick swap printcores. It is totally possible to mod an UMO to dual extrusion using eg. some of E3Ds designs, but obviously it requires some effort.
  10. If you have a UMO with a LCD controller (ulticontroller) you can likely change the steps/mm for the z-axis to half its current value directly on the machine and store the new value in memory. If not you have to configure and build a new marlin and upload it to your board ... Take care with this operation, as the one that is on the machine currently will be forever lost and your new build may have various settings that deviate from the ones you currently have.
  11. The mount dosn't last long enough? Why? I've had the same PLA mount for my E3Dv6 for years now... If its melting or deforming something in your hotend assembly is not correct, the hotend is not supposed to be hot on any parts near or touching the mount...
  12. Hi, this shifting layers issue is fairly common in 3d peinting, and can have several different causes. Depending on what printer you have and what electronics are used, it could be a current setting on your stepper drivers... Too low current, and the stepper motors may not have enough force to do its moves, thus it will skip steps. Too high of a current setting will make stepper drivers (and motors) hot, which will also cause skipped steps... However, since you only have a single shifted layer, I think maybe your problem is more of a mechanical nature, and maybe once during the print either a belt or pulley slipped. Check the tightness of all grub screws on all your pulleys, and check belt tension.
  13. Uh yes... The old Ultimaker board... A bit of a hassle that one... You are indeed correct that you just need a steady supply of 12V for that heatsink cooling fan, did you look everywhere on the board for something like that? (I don't have my old board anymore, but seem to remember (and can see from pictures online) that there are quite a lot of unused pins on the board with various labels like "LED" and even "12V OUTPUT" (at the far end from the switch). Do you per-chance have a multimeter so you can do some measurements on the board? You mention the heatbed upgrade kit, how does that work again? Does it run off the same power supply as the UM and at 18V?
  14. The above mentioned steps are pretty much what is recommended by E3D for assembing their hotends (including the heating of the block before final tightning), and the know what they are doing... +1 to that.
  15. Hi You have to adjust the current setting on the stepper driver (small board you are talking about) by measuring on the driver with a multimeter and adjusting the trim potentiometer. Which driver did you get? Can you post some pictures (then I might be able to guide you)
  16. Im going to go ahead and assume this toy has sentimental value of some sort? Otherwise I agree with @geert_2, It wouldn't be worth it (and Im all for fixing broken stuff, second hand, etc.) It looks to me like the pins holding the wheels in the first picture yoou posted, were removed (possibly cut or drilled out?) and replaced with something shiny (like a crew or bolt?) Like that picture also illustrates, printing replacement wheels is definitely doable... The steering wheel is somewhat larger, and more complex, still doable... But again, is it worth the effort?
  17. I do this every single time I make a print... can't remember the last time I ran an actual bed leveling... I ´have an UMO which I modified myself for 3 point leveling via thumbscrews under the build plate... I just start a print and tune these screws while the printer is laying down brim or skirt, works like a charm (I use something like 10 lines to have plenty of time for this, and still some brim left even if the first 3-4 lines are laid down with poor leveling).
  18. Kinda along the same lines as @rowiac my German is rather poor (I was able to read and understand maybe 90% of this post, but my writing skills in German are really bad, so I will keep it in English). I think for maximum feedback and responses here on the forums, English is the better option for making a post, even if you don't feel super comfortable writing in that language. Anyways, back to your issues... I have a heavily modified UMO, and yes, there is resistance when pushing the print head around, but it should be doable with your index finger... If it is, then I wouldn't mess more with that part and look for other areas where you can improve print quality. Maybe you can post a picture and explain which parts of your print you are not satisfied with in terms of quality, and people might be able to answer more concretely as to what your problems might be. For the washers by the axle covers, there are also some parametric models on thingiverse you can use... Like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23835
  19. You are... OP is taking advantage of the infill patterns generated by Cura, to make an interesting outer shell on his print...
  20. There are settings in cura to make it not go over any holes in the print (and instead do exactly what it is doing there), I don't think you can make the printer not travel over infill, as the software was made to assume that stuff would go inside a print and not be visible... There are however settings you can play with to minimize the lines... I would look at print temperature, travel speed, retraction speed and distance as well as z-hop
  21. Does this happen with other prints as well? How does your layer view for this print look in Cura?
  22. The motors are turning in the right direction. but the thing is they ar gibbering when i run for example a program. Roy, Alright, what are their current and supply voltage rating?
  23. The steppers you describe are as far as I can tell, pretty much identical to the originals. Ie. same size and step/rev. specs. If they are running the wrong way, you probably plugged them in the wrong way in your board (that will make them run "backwards"). So either turn the plug 180 degrees, or go to the Invert axis section in the configuration.h file in marlin, and invert the affected axis.
  24. Glad you sorted it out... Seems like the glass surface is not even though (it extruded fine in the middle of your triangle but not in the sides...) Maybe try flipping the plate and see if it helps any with regards to that.
  25. The Ultimaker machines actually operate at 24V DC (the UMO ran 19V DC), so you just have to find another way of feeding that to the machine (assuming the separate PSU that comes with the printer won't work under your conditions special)
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