tommyph1208

My guess was C3PO as well

Isn't this an illustration of where the print is currently at in terms of layer number?

Are you going to share this one as well? My old man is nuts about those kinds of mind bending puzzles, so I thought I would have a look at yours and possibly find inspiration to make another more complex one...

Alright... Does the coin have a lot of individual "hilltops", i.e. areas where the printhead needs to travel to without extruding? The coin I did went fine as long as the printhead could just keep moving around and extrude.. but when it got heigh enough that it needed to print the highest points of detail (the hilltops I'm referring to) it all went to crap...

How do you guys print these? I tried printing a self designed coin some time ago. Printed it laying flat, but found that all the raised individual details resulted in a lot for travels and it ended up being of really poor quality despite the printer being nicely tuned and printing other objects nicely...

I don't have Cura in front of me, but under support settings there is a setting for the min. horizontal and vertical distance that support must have to the printed object... Have you tried fiddling with that? (i.e.. setting it to 0, to make it touch the object)

Couldn't the forum just be tweaked in some way to ask a user if his/her post is specifically oriented towards one of the two UM versions... If a user then chooses one of them, the post headline has a prefix added... something along those lines?

Hey B Love your videos featuring the Ultimaker Way too much of the Ultimaker stuff found on youtube is either unboxing, assembly time lapses, first prints or people demonstrating some fancy upgrade, speed hacks or whatnot, all way too abstract for the average youtuber that may happen to stumble upon 3d printing with an Ultimaker printer... You keep it down to earth, and focus on the joy of simply making stuff with your printer, and through that help spread the word to the masses about the joys of 3d printing (34.280 subscribers.. well done!) Happy holidays and keep up the good work!

Those are some funky looking models indeed... Test-2 and Test-4, should be quite printable... Would it matter anything for the aesthetic/idea of the model if Test-2 was extruded down to the Y-X plane? That is, make the model sort of a block extending upwards in the z direction from the x, y, 0 plane, rather than being a thin uneven plane as it is now.... I believe that would make it much easier to print. Either in that same orientation or rotated 90 degrees onto its side (choose the side that results in the least dramatic overhangs) For Test-4 you should use some support settings, or better yet, cut the model in half and print each part separately as a "hill", gluing the two parts together when finished...

Ive been working on designing some plexi glass side panels for my UM original... There's a FabLab nearby where I live that has a laser cutter I can use, so I started modifying the laser cut drawings for the UM1 parts that are available on Thingiverse. Maybe you can use those if you can find a laser cutter somewhere? I havent gotten around to finding a solution to securing the panels to the frame yet... Currently I'm thinking magnets... Hinges requires a lot of space for the panels to open... Anyways, I put the design files here for anyone interested in using or modifying them: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1259814/Ultimaker%20Acrylic%20side%20panels.rar

You forgot to mention a price...

Hey Ian and Sander The actual print layer height was 0.075 mm. as you can see in one of the Cura screendumps... The 0.3 mm. I was talking about is a Cura setting for printing with support. It basically means that it will only print support up to a 0.3 mm Z distance to the actual model... I set it this high to prevent support and model from melting together too much, and to make it easier to remove the support, but 0.3 mm seems too high when printing 0.075 mm. layers, the print hangs/sacks in the eye sockets and on the bottom of the skull...

Thanks for the answers guys, really helps a bunch

So... I got a second hand Ultimaker a few weeks ago and it prints rather well, however I of course cannot help but tinker with it and look for areas I can improve, adjust, calibrate etc... Since I didn't build the machine myself I don't know how stuff "is supposed to be" and can only rely on my common sense as well as the wiki build instructions and of course these forums... While tinkering I have discovered that my XY rods (the ones with the timing pulleys on them) can move slightly back and forth in their bearings... As if they are about 1 mm. too short (or the frame in which they sit is 1 mm. too wide). As I said the printer prints really rather good, however I would imagine that it prints better if the rods stay in place (and makes less noise?) Does anyone have the same "problem" with their Ultimakers? I thought about simply adding something (like a washer or similar) to the caps that are bolted onto the outside of the frame to hold the axis in place...

I only have this rather bad picture of the model with support removed... I think setting the z distance to 0.3 mm. was a bit too much... it made the support very easy to remove but the print hangs/sacks in areas where support was highly needed:

Hi all I got my second hand UM1 a few weeks ago and I am currently learning all the ins and outs of the printer itself as well as Cura. Yesterday and today I tried printing my first prints with support.. This one is a model by a friend of mine:

Do you still have this for sale?