tommyph1208

It would be nice with a little more info about the machine and material you are using But I'm going to go ahead and assume you are printing in PLA, in which case I would try and lower the bed temperature to around 50 and hotend temperature to around 180-185... Maybe some slightly lower print speed to go with the lower temp. Your retraction settings also seem wierdly slow and short to me, but your printer being an i3, I assume it has a direct drive feeder rather that the bowden setup of UMs and thus, I am not sure of the optimal settings. For reference I run something like 4.5 mm. at 60 mm./s on my bowden UM1

I'm really interested to see images of your results. Maybe I didn't mention it before, but my UM2 has heated chamber. I prined with plexy doors that close front openning and with heated bed at 80°C and if you missed the result here is it again: https://goo.gl/photos/wabKy9RWgdZvbxis5 Please share your results, but I'm sceptical that ABS can handle this kind of object with high walls, even with heated chamber... but I have almost no experience with printing using ABS. Apart from mine being printed in white ABS instead of Orange, my result looked almost identical to yours... Delamination in the walls of an otherwise nice and warp-free print... I printed the whole thing in a little over 2 hours with a 1.2 mm. nozzle in a E3D Vulcano hotend. Have since switched back to a 0.4 mm. for another project, but I have another thing for the 1.2 mm. coming up, and will try and give your model one more go when I switch back. I got a suggestion from a 3D print group I'm in, to modify the end gcode to slowly turn down the bed heat over time, rather than instantly when the print finishes, so I will do that... If you are interested in trying out the slow shutdown as well, have a look at the end of the gcode file when done slicing (you can open it in a regular text editor) Down in the bottom you'll find a line saying: "M140 0", which is the gcode to set the bed temperature to 0 degrees. combining that with the dwell command "G4 Snnn" (where nnn is the time in seconds to wait), you can string those two up in series to gradually turn down the heat of the bed... eg.: M140 70; G4 S60; M140 60; G4 S60; M140 50; G4 S60; M140 40; G4 S60; M140 30; G4 S60; M140 0; This turns down the bed temperature in 10 degree intervals with 60 seconds between each interval, until we reach around room temperature at which time we shut the bed off.

I know bunch of people with 3D printer, and none have heated chamber... if you have heated hamber could you try one print run? MeshPoint STL 3D files Are there any printers with heated chambers that have around 25x25x25 build volume and full metal hotend? I can give it a try when I get home tonight... As mentioned in other posts here, a heated chamber dosn't need to be that fancy... The one I made for my UMO is made from acrylic sheets, cut to form to fit in the holes of the machine. The UMO is open in both front, top and sides, the UM2 already has closed sides, making it easier to cover it up. To begin with I wouldn't worry too much about the top. With a 100 degree heatbed I find that the build area gets nice and cozy-warm without me having enclosed the top. As a little update I tried printing the model you posted in ABS yesterday, and while the print itself went ok, the part delaminated as the printer cooled off, So I might do a little troubleshooting with that...

I have both v6 and vulcano heatblocks... can measure when I get home, otherwise you can buy a E3D heatblock along with the sock... The thread and everything is the same as the UMO. However, it might not be possible to remove the heater and thermocouple from your old block without damaging them, in which case you have to replace those with new ones from E3D as well... They sell a complete block-and-sock kit: http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Spares/V6-Block-Sock-Kit EDIT: E3D are also so kind as to leave engineering drawings to all their parts on their website: http://files.e3d-online.com/v6/Drawings/V6-BLOCK.pdf

Just up your temperature some, especially with a part like this which dosn't seem to have any extreme overhangs or details that would suffer severely from it... The result will be a stronger part with much better continuous flow and bonding layers.. I have heavy cooling on my UMO and rarely print PLA below 210 degrees

I know bunch of people with 3D printer, and none have heated chamber... if you have heated hamber could you try one print run? MeshPoint STL 3D files Are there any printers with heated chambers that have around 25x25x25 build volume and full metal hotend? I can give it a try when I get home tonight... As mentioned in other posts here, a heated chamber dosn't need to be that fancy... The one I made for my UMO is made from acrylic sheets, cut to form to fit in the holes of the machine. The UMO is open in both front, top and sides, the UM2 already has closed sides, making it easier to cover it up. To begin with I wouldn't worry too much about the top. With a 100 degree heatbed I find that the build area gets nice and cozy-warm without me having enclosed the top.

Does ABS not cover these specifications? Printed warp-free in a heated chamber?

Hi As Valcrow states, the pros for a heated bed are many... I have an UMO as well, which I after a year or so started to take apart completely and heavily modify. Amongs those mods are a heated bed, and I have not looked back since. Now, this was back before the official Heatbed upgrade was announced, and I spent a lot of time researching how to best (and cheapest) do my own. The main problem with the UMO is that its power supply is not strong enough to pull both printer and a typical ~100W heated bed. Second the mosfets for the heatbed output as well as the boards main Vin port are not rated for the currents that a good heatbed will typically draw, and many people back then reported that these components failed when they had tried a heatbed install anyways... Along came the UMO+ and the official upgrade kit for the UMO, and problem solved right? ... Well not quite, as you mentioned yourself, the kit is quite expensive... Luckily, there is no reason why you shouldn't do a homemade upgrade just like people did before the official kit, thereby learning alot of stuff and saving some money... Sure you don't get a completely new z-stage as with the kit, and you have to mess with stuff yourself. But if that dosn't scare you off, I think its still not a bad way to go. I'd be happy to point you to some guides here on the forum, as well as tell you the way I went about it. - Regardless of your choice, I think a heatbed is worth it, it is by far the best upgrade I have done.

I have seen this as well on my aging UMO... As far as I can tell it might have to do with worn out axis or bearings... to the jagged line you see would be a result of: A: Hotend moving slightly up and down on worn down/warped axis creating uneven layer widths - printing a straight single wall line will reveal if this is the case as the error will show on both sides of the line. B: Hotend moving slightly from side to side when travelling along a worn down/warped axis - Here the error should only be to one side at a time

Hey! Sorry for replying so late... Have been afk for a while. You'll find my drawings here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/w67lhx6dagcwd6j/AAC03wAN9LRtcpS0C7vw86cea?dl=0 Theres a ready-to-cut .pdf and also the Adobe illustrator file, if you want to edit around yourself... Have fun

Risk of fire wait what!? How hot to you think these enclosures get? I get that you (probably) shouldn't put a loose paper bag over your printer with the risk of it falling into the build area and catching fire on the hotend. I can't possibly see how you would egnite the sheet-based polycarbonate or acrylig enclosures presented here, with the kind of temperatures we operate with for 3d printers (or even the temperatures they may reach if sensors fail)

I don't know exactly how the layout of the UM2 is, but this sounds like you might have accidentally unplugged a Zmin endstop while fiddling with your board... Try taking the cover off again and check that all cables are secured properly on the board.

I have a crossflow setup that was initiated by @foehnsturm as per his post above... It ís not exactly silent either.... Works great though

Btw... I don't recognize the feeding errors mentioned in the post when I try mine (I have the |Robert| UM2 feeder on my Ultimaker Original with an E3Dv6 hotend)... I think he makes it sound harder than it is... I just load it in like regular filament, heat up the hotend and feed 10 cm.

You could buy some cleaning filament like the one from eSun mentioned in this old post, and run some through your hotend every time you switch filament...: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/9405-quick-review-of-the-esun-cleaning-filament I have some and push 10 cm. through the hotend from time to time... It is kind of like an abrasive that will scrape little filament leftovers along with it... so far it has worked out nicely for me. Of course you can't use it once the damege is done and your hotend has clogged completely... think of it more as a "preventive step".

Feeder will slip/skip if it encounters too high resistance while pushing the filament... This could happen if. eg. your filament is too thick, oval or in other ways blocks the bowden tube... It also happens if you are trying to push filament through too fast for the temperature setting... As mentioned by @Labern, at 100 mm/s print speed, your filament should be like liquid honey for it to keep up... that means higher temperature.

People have been saying great things about ColorFabb, they make a wide variety of different filaments... Again pricey though. But honestly, there are so many filament brands out there by now, that you could easily find something cheaper that still suits your needs... Try some different ones out, choose one and stick with it.

It does, what you're looking at is the "cover plate" on top of the gear. This is to comply with certain regulations which require you to protect fingers from moving parts. Look closely at the image at the top right and you'll see the gear. Aaah, how fancy Those things were NOT around back when I got my printer

Alright..., it might be that nozzle or other inner parts of the hotend were damaged due to what you mention... But I don't know anything about UM2 hotends There is some special cleaning filament you can get, maybe try to run 10 cm. of that through it to see if that helps, before replacing the nozzle

What temperature are you printing this at?

There is no "shut down" procedure as such.... I think a lot of people like to let the print head cool down before turning the printer off... For some actively cooled hotend types it is actually a requirement. For the "Resume/stop" question, I am not sure what you mean... If you power off the printer mid-print, it is very hard to resume that print again at a later time.... This would require you to first make sure that the print stays stuck to the print bed (the UMO+ has a heated bed, so this would typically mean keeping the bed warm, which again means keeping the printer on). Then you would have to measure or in other ways figure out, at what layer you stopped the print, then edit your gCode to disregard all the parts that were already printed, home the printer at the z height the print stopped at and then start printing the remaining gCode. If you are looking for simple ways to temporarily pause a print these should be available on the UltiController... Though as far as I know, that option will not park the printhed, but simply stop it over the printed part, resulting in melting from the heat radiation and oozing onto the print. Cura also has a "Pause at height" plugin that you can add to your slice if you know you want a pause at a specific height... eg. to put in little inserts in your print or similar. That one has a park coordinate, that lets you move the head away from the print. Bot of these methods are resumed again via the UltiController...

Btw.... Why dosn't your gear have any teeth?

the image posted above is not of my design... it is taken directly from the UMO assembly manual... I was just looking today at common objects you may already have that could serve as a substitute for the broken pin... I think you will find that the thumb-pin (blank part) of a medium sized bulldog clip like this one, will do the job nicely: I use those to hold up the collars of my bowden push-fittings (the umo comes with a little plastic piece for this), I think they would be the right size, have low friction, are chep and easy to come by and are easy to grab and bend to get them on and off

Haha, that "gear" is not going to get you far Ok back to serious... The pin itself can be printed, or you can replace it with something that serves the same purpose of holding the hubbed bolt in place... its ability to do that is more important than its specific shape. Regarding the gear scaping up against screws on 10D... the assembly instructions say 2x washers in between gear and 10D, do you have that? For the gears not touching, the motor should be able to slide back and fourth in its mounting holes to form good contact before tightening the screws...

Can you post some pictures? I abandoned the original geared feeder quite some time ago, but did dis- and reassemble that one several times