tommyph1208

I don't know about the ultimaker hotend (replaced mine ages ago), but some instructions for other hotends, eg. the ones from E3D, instructs you to screw the nozzle all the way flush with the heatblock, and then back out like half a turn... Then screw the heatbreak in from the other side but dont over tighten. Now you heat up the hotend and then tighten the nozzle up against the heatbreak while the metal is hot to form a good seal.

I would probably print it right side up with support touching buildplate and a fairly high top/bottom thickness... Its a very good use for it as the ugly surface that the support will inevitably cause, will be hidden inside the cabin, and you avoid the heavy overhang on the outside of the cabin.

Ok, it sounds like you have had the current setting on the drives too high... I remember having had problems with having to reset a Rumba too and at some point found a solution on the wiki page for the board I think.

Hi, welcome to the forums and to the world of 3d printing The blue lines you see in Cura are so called travel moves, they occur when the printhead is forced to move to a new place on the model, but not extrude during that move. There are a number of settings you can tweak in Cura, to minimize the visibility of these moves on your print. Start by switching to full settings in Cura, if you haven't done so already ("Expert" tab -> "Switch to full settings") Now under the "Advanced" tab you'll find settings for retraction. This is a feature in which filament is pulled back during travel moves, to minimize any side effects of these on the print (oozing, stringing etc.), you'll want to play around with these values a bit. If you open the expert settings ("Expert" -> "Open expert settings"), you'll find some additional retraction options that can help you, z-hop will eg. lower the bed a little when doing the travel move, which along with a good retraction setting should eliminate the lines you see on the top of your print...

That is definitely your issue then, the settings for the dvr8825 are different, for those you want 1, 1, 0 for 1/8 microsteps, 0, 0, 1 for 1/16, and any of 1, 0, 1, - 0, 1, 1 or 1, 1, 1 for 1/32. I would advise for the 1/32 setting for x, y and e with the dvr8825, since its smoother and hence a bit less noisy... this means you can keep your current jumper settings and just double the steps for those axis in firmware

That sounds strange indeed... I have a Rumba board as well and did not experience any issues like that... Did you set up microstepping correctly with the small jumper switches under each stepper driver? For an otherwise unaltered UM with default A4988 drivers you want 1,1,1 for x, y and e (1/16 microsteps), 1,1,0 for z (1/8 microsteps)

While I agree that you shouldn't look directly at it or stick your fingers under the laser, those units do need to be focused to actually cut anything... So I wouldn't worry too much about damaging the machine... You do need to be careful with your eyes though.

Can you not just hold them in place inside the frame an check? it should be fairly obvious...

Alright... The A4988 drivers you got should be a direct plug in replacement (provided that you turn it the right way), and the 0.7V Vref sounds like a very good starting value, so if you can't get those to work your problem must be one step further down, ie. the driver socket or the UM board itself. Try one of your new drivers on one of the motor channels that work currently, to eliminate any doubt if the drivers are working or not...

The PCB fan on the UMO is notorious for wearing out its bearing and start making alot of noise and possible move less air. I think a lot of people (incl. me) replace them with PC cooling fans mounted to a custom printed cover (you can find lots on eg. Thingiverse or youmagine). However, since your printer is faulty, you cant really print one at the moment... You would have to get creative with some other means of cooling while printing a new cover (stack the printer on something and put some fans underneath, put it outside, something?) if the print is a success, it will confirm cooling to be your problem (though it is weird it only happens with one driver). Did you check the passive heat sink on the faulty driver? Also: Be careful when taking drivers in and out of your machine, putting them in the wrong ways (turned 180 degrees) will blow them up...

I don't know why you start to mix Cura and Simplify3d into this... I love Cura, have never used anything else and it does exactly what I'm missing a reflection of in the upload firm... Namely provide a basic tap with some main settings, and the hide extra more advanced details in other tabs for the more advanced user. You, not wanting to mod your UM, is totally fair... As you say, it takes a lot of time and needs a lot of testing. Saying that it can't improve your printers capabilities and quality I don't agree with though... especially for the UMO, a lot of community driven modding has helped it keep up to date and on par with many more modern printers. And modding, after all, is and has always been, a big part of the UM community...

As @DidierKlein mentions, the key here may very well be in your slicer settings. Move out of the comfort of the preset profiles and into the advanced and expert domain (these are Cura menus), measure your filament diameter and get to know your printer, then you can and will get closer to your goal

Hi Sander The initial post ended up being really sour in tone due to the bad experience with uploading pictures I had just before posting, so apologies for that... I have since managed to upload my print from work. My initial attempt was yesterday (6/6) some time in the evening, not exactly sure but some time past 20:00 CEST. With regards to the extra details I'm requesting, Im thinking maybe some optinal parameters could be added to the form, this way you can still use searches and filters, but the intrigued user has access to additional info, and can learn more about possible expansions for the UM printers and eg. "How the hell he managed to print that overhang without support?" Using as an example, the printspeed: I have used varying speeds for top/bottom layers, inner and outer walls as well as infill... This might be too much initial info but maybe it could be added in some form of optional foldout. This way, the form only requires you to enter some main speed (this would be the Cura value you mention), but with the option to add more details in optional subfields. Similarly when someone goes to view the print, the extra info can be intially hidden in the foldout. Alternatively allowing eg. a range (eg. 75-100 mm/s) might also do... For other details like eg. the material and color, simply allowing for multiple selections would suffice. As far as the printer goes, I understand that you want to be able to separate eg. UMOs from UM2s, 2s from 2+s etc. It makes sense from a buisness perspective, and I respect that. Im thinking a similar approach as with eg. the printspeed could work here as well. So you select the printer model that formed the base of your printer and then allow for optional additional mod fields. These would be less well-defined than eg. the print speed values, and so maybe would need to be in a free text form. Mine would eg. end up being somthing like: Printer: Ultimaker Original Mods: Rumba electronics, SilentStepStick drivers, E3Dv6 hotend, |Robert|s direct drive UM2 feeder, Crossflow cooling, closed buildchamber, Aluminum heatbed and glass...

Am I the only one who finds the "Upload 3d print" form rather useless? I waited ages to upload ~25mb. worth of pictures of a recent print... Eventually I gave up (had in the meantime managed to upload the exact same print as a make on thingiverse, it took a fraction of the time I waited) On top of that, the form you can fill out with details is kind of stupid and limited in its choices... Print speed: Everyone knows there is no such thing as ONE print speed, what about the possiblility to mirror your cura settings? Color: You can choose just one? How boring and lame Printer: God forbid you have used some modified product... better stick with the stock defaults... I could go on...

I've been testing using 1 to 2 hour prints, which really isn't long I don't think. I've had it die around the 20minute mark too. I don't think there is a rule as such that longer prints will build up error and make the print stop... The data loss happens at random, it can be at the 1 second mark or 10 hour mark, its just more painful at the 10 hour mark, hence the "don't use it for long prints".

People have generally said that USB connection for longer prints is a bad idea due to the potential loss of packages and a pretty dumb receiving end that doesn't really know how to handle that... So I would say, if you have the possibility to use controller with a SD card reader, try a print or two from that... You can get RepRap smart controllers on eg. ebay for less than 10 euros, like this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2004-LCD-Display-3D-Printer-Controller-With-Adapter-For-RAMPS-1-4-Reprap-Mendel-/141679594646?hash=item20fcc30c96:g:rMkAAOSw~OdVaCgA

See this is probably where I would start thinking long term... My impression back when I did my research was that you would have various problems running a heatbed through the UMO board, so eventually you would end up with either the relay solution , or swapping the electronics at that point.... But that's just me, and I do understand the limiting od expenses part... The RUMBA board is not cheap. Anyways, this went off track, post was supposed to be about pt100 and E3D

I think it was yes... I had started a project of adding a heated bed to the printer and was planning to use a common reprap heatbed and the widely adopted route (at least at the time) of using a relay between the heatbed and an external PSU, opened and closed with the heatbed mosfet on the UMO board... I found the whole setup kind of clunky though, and adding to that almost all other 3d printer parts commonly found on various reprap websites, ebay, etc. are either 12 or 24V... not 19v as is the UMO standard. Finally the RUMBA board itself is pretty nifty with several different options for plugging in components, additional slots for stepper drivers, heaters and temp sensors and once I got started the conversion went pretty smoothly... Never did get my UltiController to work with the Rumba though, so I replaced that with a 10 euro SmartController from ebay.

I use a 24V E3Dv6 on my UMO but switched the entire machine to 24v using a RUMBA board

Glad to hear it! I think I'll end up doing something similar to insulate the heater block. Any chance you can post those original PID settings? I stupidly changed mine using Marlin's PID autotune and forgot to write down the originals. I've reloaded the firmware, but that didn't reset the PID settings on the machine for some reason. Thanks for the tips! Well I did change firmware a few times, so the PID values that I have now are not the original ones... Maybe you can just grab Marlin from GitHub and see what the defaults are in there, use those as a starting point? Has always worked for me...

I think customs rules etc. differ from country to country... I live in Denmark, and we have a minimum threshold of 80kr. (around 10 euros), below which packages are disregarded as far as customs are concerned. Above that it gets really expensive with up to aroun 35% of the price added + a 20 euro handling fee...

Maybe RobotDigg? http://www.robotdigg.com/category/9/Timing+Pulley

I'm afraid I can't really help you with specific vendors, the only GT2 pulleys I myself have bought (for other projects) have been the previously mentioned cheap chinese ones... I would generally say that you get what you pay for, so if you find some expensive ones somewhere they will be better... Be careful, and evaluate the shop though... Sometimes the price difference is mostly markup for the guy who owns the shop, and they end up being in fact the exact same ones as the china ones. I have not had any problems so far with the ones I have gotten form eg. ebay (and even if one out of a batch of 20 is bad, I just throw it away), I am not that picky though...

There was another question like this not so long ago (which I actually answered falsely), that thread answers your questions: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/20389-pre-printing-extrusion