tommyph1208
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Posts posted by tommyph1208
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I have an E3Dv6 on my UMO as well, and before that, an E3Dv5 with the original UM heater block, heater and pt100... I never bothered to change my PID values and it still works fine.
What i did do though, was to insulate my heater block in some ceramic cloth taped up with kapton... It makes heating much faster and stable, even with my very violent cross-flow fan constantly blowing directly at it with full speed...
Its something like this I used:
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Now i'm just trying to figure out firmware for um2. Has anyone built their own Um2 that can help guide me through the use of the marlin firmware from github please and thank you.
You should probably search the forum og make a new post for that...
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Buying stuff from Ultimaker seems like the expensive route to go (which I guess sort of defeats the purpose of building the machine yourself), try searching around with keywords like "linear", "motion" and "shaft", you can most certainly find some in a canadian shop, as these things are used in a multitude of applications.
As far as I am informed quality can vary alot though, so maybe don't go for the cheapest stuff you find (this would also be the aliExpress ones...)
They should be labeled with some letters/numbers specifying their precision, you can look that up if you care about quality.
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Can't you directly modify the eeprom on the UM2 like you can with the UM1?
If I want to change step values on my UM1 I can go into Control -> Motion -> Esteps/mm
Then back to Control -> Store memory
I was thinking if there is a similar option on the UM2?
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To figure out at what height to do the pause, you can use Curas layer view to find the first layer of the numbers, multiply this layer number with your layer height to get the height in mm.
Don't forget first layer height in advanced tab! In most cases it's different from layer height setting but still counts as only one layer in the layer view.
Oh your right, totally forgot about that
... But yes, of course that applies - Good catch 
Actually, does anyone know if the pause will happen before or after printing in the specified height?
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Maybe you can try and take the belt off for the x-axis stepper motor so it is decoupled, then try moving the gantry... This will inform you if the problems lie in the axis and/or bearings themselves or the motor or belt... I have myself experienced squeeking on my UMO which was caused by a misaligned pulley that made a belt rub against the side of the pulley.
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Thanks!
So if I want to change the filament do I need to give "Head move Z (mm)" a value other than 0?
You don't need the "Head move z" (actually messing with it will make it harder to resume the print), you do want to enter a "x y parking coordinate" so the hot nozzle moves away from your printed part and doesn't burn a hole in it... 0,0 should be fine.
To figure out at what height to do the pause, you can use Curas layer view to find the first layer of the numbers, multiply this layer number with your layer height to get the height in mm.
To avoid a bit of stringing when it does the parking move, you might also want to enter in your normal retraction amount (you'll find it under the advanced tab)...
Just make sure to actually manually prime the hotend with your new black filament (press it all the way into the block until pure black filament comes out the nozzle), otherwise you can get problems with under extrusion as it starts the black layers, and they will initially be grey rather than black.
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I don't understand what broke, the cartridge itself? So you want to replace it but use existing wires running along your Bowden tube and int your board?
Anyways... To answer your question, yes you can cut and solder all you want... My heater wire for instance only extends a few cm. and end in a plug (as does thermistor wire), so I can easily remove the entire hotend... Just make sure to cover your wires up nicely afterwards.
Polarity doesn't matter no.
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Make sure "print all at once" is chosen and not "one at a time". Print it.
So you were right gr5, the problem was fixed when I tried 'one at a time" but I was right about slicing, Cura is messing up something.
The initial layers and Z-Axis position with "one at a time" is perfect and is how it should be but the peculiar thing is when I do it solo, the Z-Axis doesn't go down enough and also the speed I think reverts back to the initial layer speed, almost as if it's considering initial layers of the stick as bottom layers.
The solution was simple but at the same time this error in slicing does exist and should be addressed, I think.
Don't you thin the print speed issues you are seeing are related to minimum layer time?
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I would say that it isn't "abnormal"... What I mean by that is that it looks like something easily seen before, but can also become better with the right settings.
Basically what you have there is a print with a lot of small pillars with bridging or travel moves between them... These are hard features to print compared to alot of other models (say if the Y was solid)
One of the things you need to do is enable advanced settings and start playing around... For instance you need to fine-tune your travel and retraction settings and play around with temperature until you find something suitable for your model, print speed, material etc.
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@tommyph1208, do you still want to try those prints? I think it's not too useful. My current design has already shown to be only that useful, no need to prove it :PI would rather bring the topic up again when It shows a real advantage over stock cooling or other fan shrouds.
Alright cool I won't bother you guys in here with it
... I might try it still at some point just out of my own interest...But please keep us posted on your progress, its always cool to hear about new mods and development, and your solution seems, if nothing else, magnitudes cheaper than mine.
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I can share it tonight. Or you create it yourself
It's just a cylinder with diameter 20mm, height 4mm and then an outward cone on top with 45° and 6mm height. the square one is 20x20mm with 4mm height and then a capped pyramid with also 45° and 6mm height. Can you also print with 0,1mm layers, 40mm/s, 20% infill and 205°C? Then the main difference should be cooling.Sounds like a plan... However immediately after posting, I remembered that I currently have a 0,6mm. nozzle in my machine... That will have to be changed too as wider nozzles also greatly improve prints in the overhang department
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oh sorry, my fault. what you see is the bottom side, the top surface of the prints is laying on the paper.
Aha.... The plot thickens
I though that what I now understand are overhangs were actually a brim
I would still love to see a side picture though, I think those show the "sagging" errors of overhangs well...
If you want to share the models I will be happy to give them a whirl with my crossflow setup and post some results here...
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I dont know if it is of any help but I have a cork plate kapton taped to the bottom of my heatbed to keep the warmth up in the bed and glass plate, rather than down into the wooden z-stage of my UMO... Maybe you could use this material as well?
I that case my approach would be something like:
1. Get a cork plate of some relatively small thickness (these are typically available in eg. hobby stores)
2. Using the "pauseAtZ" plugin for cura during your slicing, print the bottom layers up to a height where you start to have your overhang problems.
3. while the printer is paused and "parked" at eg. x,y = 0,0, carefully place the cork plate with a cutout the size of the model, down over the half finished print (maybe fix it in the sides with eg. bulldog clips)
4. Resume printing
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@tommyph1208, I did some pictures from the side, but I think the topdown versions show more detail. Have you looked at them in full resolution?
I have yes, but it is hard (impossible) to see the quality of the outer walls (which I am most interested in in relation to overhangs... )
from your pictures I can see that you have fine top layer quality in both cases...
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The start and end code tab isn't available if you're using an UM2/UM2+ machine unless you switch the "Gcode flavour" in the machine settings in cura. I wouldn't do that unless absolutely necessary.
The amount of priming is set in the firmware for the UM2 so you'll have to re-compile the firmware if you want to change it.
Alrighty then, I did not know that... I have seen it in my firmware for the UMO as well when playing with that... So which one counts for the UMO? That set in Cura, or the one from firmware?
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Not sure we can say crossflow would totaly replace the fanshroud. Don't forget it blows only from one side (from now at least) and the filament needs to be cooled down fast and precisely.
In fact, this system just cools down the print area, which is intresting for the first layers and printing hard parts but fanshroud seems to be important. I mean a labern version, not the old UM2 one.
Yes I have heard this argument about the "good" and "poorly" cooled side of prints quite frequently...
I have myself removed the carriage fan and fan shroud entirely, and gotten used to orienting my parts so the "hardest to print" (most overhangs, details etc.) side is turned towards the cross-flow fan, also often printing in that side of the print bed if the model doesn't take up the entire build space.
For me I would say that this approach has been quite sufficient in almost all cases.
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Pics from the side would be better, no? To show the quality of the overhang?
These top down ones look pretty much the same to me...
You talk about removing the fanshroud from the printhead which I think is a good idea...
This is what I did on my UMO, and to me that is half of the benefit from the crossflow approach; A less bulky and lighter hotend carriage with (at least) the same cooling capabilities and print quality as the carriage mounted fans and shrouds...
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Have a look in Cura under the tab called "Start/End-Gcode"
If you click the start.gcode file, you will see some lines of code that always gets added to the top of your gcode after slicing (it eg. homes the printer, zeros some values, stops the fans etc.)
There should be a line saying something like:
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
The number after the E is the amount of filament (in mm.,) extruded before the print starts, play around with that value.
Don't turn it off completely, the hotend needs to be primed so that process is not happening during the printing of the first layer... Otherwise you will get terrible bottom quality and adhesion problems.
I always print with 3-5 lines of skirt, which performs kind of the same function (It starts the print by printing lines at a certain distance around the perimeter of your model), but also will let you do a bit of "on the fly" bed leveling before the actual print starts...
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Model isnt THAT simple, the "cup" part initially has quite an overhang to print, and the stick as you call it is quite thin...
If I had to bet I would say that Cura is slicing fine, but you have some setting problems that in combination with how these machines work, create your problems.
First off, you didn't post any temperature settings, but in general, the smaller the print (or part of a print), the lower the temperature you need... Printing that "stick" at a normal PLA temperature (~210 degrees) will melt and deform it as shown in your picture..
There are a few things you can do here:
1. Lower the temperature: When printing slow enough, you can print PLA at around 190 degrees, this will help the plastic solidify faster and reduce the constant heat radiation from the hotend while it is over the part.
2. Good cooling: make sure you have fans running at max, that they are working, directed properly etc. it really does wonders for printing small details and overhangs.
3. Print multiples at once: this is a common approach when printing small objects to help layers cool sufficiently before the next one is layed on top. Simply multiply the object in cura (say, 3 times) and enable the "print all at once" option under "Tools".
The minimum layer time setting you find in cura is there for the same purpose, but works poorly with small objects (like the stick part of your model), since it just slows down the print speed to match the layer time but the nozzle is still right over the entire (or most of the) model for the duration of the layer.
When printing multiples at once the printer will do travel moves between each model and allow the layers of each one to cool more before the next one is laid on top... As an added bonus you can pick the model that came out the best when done
3.B. Hone your retraction: Since printing multiples at once will cause travel moves, you need to have retraction enabled and somewhat honed in, in order to avoid ugly stringing on the outside of your part... The reduced print temperature greatly helps with this issue, and so will fast travel speeds, and some tests to get a good setting for retraction distance and speed (4mm. @ 40 mm./s is a good starting value... )
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Just make sure it is lubed and running smoothly... Don't push on if you discover a problem, but fix it before it gets worse/damages the printer...
Machines like this and their components are designed to last a long time doing what they do, but if you run a 20 hour print job with a skewed belt, mis-aligned axis or similar, you will wear down these components much faster...
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Ok back to this problem because I want to learn it
But honestly I have the reverse problem now.... All is to tight and I can't lose it
For large prints I take the glass plate out and put it in the freezer when the print is done, come back 10 minutes later and it will have popped off by itself...
Smaller prints I can usually pry off by hand once the bed nears room temperature...
DONT use violence or force to pry off a print, you CAN damage the glass plate (ask me how I know)
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There was just recently a question in here very similar to this (no offence, just info
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... But yes, of course that applies - Good catch 
It's just a cylinder with diameter 20mm, height 4mm and then an outward cone on top with 45° and 6mm height. the square one is 20x20mm with 4mm height and then a capped pyramid with also 45° and 6mm height. Can you also print with 0,1mm layers, 40mm/s, 20% infill and 205°C? Then the main difference should be cooling.
Good "show off" prints to excite students?
in What have you made
Posted · Edited by Guest
The stretchy bracelet is a classic show and tell print that has been used on many fares etc.
Print time is something like 10 minutes on a low quality, so you can easily print a few giveaways while you are doing a presentation:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13505