mark-hale
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Posts posted by mark-hale
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Would be interested in this also, have updated to 15.04 from .02 but not able to go to 15.06. Install is fine on the PC but firmware just sits and seems to do nothing.
I waited just over an hour before aborting, don't suppose there is any relationship to older versions of the UM2, mine was one of the very early machines.
thanks
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I want that thing that I know they're working on but I can't talk about...
Ah that must be the ability for it to print something for you before you even knew you what it was or needed to print it
Seriously though - remote control. I have dabbled with OctoPrint but currently only using it for viewing when i'm at work. Would love to have a reliable way to kill the print in the event of a failure.
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Cheers, didn't think to look at that. Looks like the "just not touching" is crucial or it seems to be with all the new parts
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Also disappointed but I appreciate the honesty.
Just a thought - my interest in the dual extrusion was for different materials, ie keep one for PLA and the other for ABS. Has anyone considered a mechanism to have two nozzles with the ability to perhaps mechanically switch between the two, thus moving one up out of the way?
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Hi
I have just replaced the complete hot end on my UM2, so thats nozzle, teflon spacer, hot end isolator and spring.
Previously when re assembling the components I have screwed the hot end isolator into the nozzle as far as it can go. This time with the new components I have noticed that if I do this I then have problems with extrusion when inserting the new material. I slackened off the hot end isolator by about a 1/4 turn, this resulted in the filament flowing.
Are there any detailed guides on what the various settings/gaps should be on re assembly of the hot end?
Thanks
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'Reset Profile to Default in Cura' yes I believe so, this is what I do if I mess around with things. I am not sure if the more advanced parts remain though.
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Hi c4dm4n
Welcome to the world of Ultimaker, as Didier mentioned the PTFE coupler is a good idea, although I managed over 500 hours before needing to replace that. But yes makes sense to get one along with the printer to save on the shipping. Personally I would order filament as I managed to get through the free roll they sent with the printer pretty fast. 3D printing is very addictive.
Enjoy your UM2
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Many thanks guys, yes the layer height is 0.1.
@pm_dude - ok on the plugin, never played with those as of yet. Assume if i leave any section blank it uses the current settings?
The 15RC sounds like it might me a good idea
I have just tried reducing the speed on the final section plus dropped the temp by 10deg as find the white does tend to blob occasionally when I go to slow, this certainly improved matters as now only have one small hole. Reckon another .5 or so would have covered it.
Cheers
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Hi
Trying to work out if this image is what the trouble shooting guide refers to as pillowing.
I am only using an infill of 20% but my top and bottom layers are set to 1mm but i'm only seeing this on the top layer. When looking at the last few minutes of the print it does seem as if its struggling to fill the infill holes but I had hoped a 1mm top layer might be enough to overcome this. The fans are going at 100% and the temp is 200. in terms of speed its 50mm/s
Any thoughts?
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I can modify the title. What do you think it should say?
sorry missed this one, just wondered if rather than how to test the heated Bed, something like Heated bed failure, check the connections for overheating?. Or maybe just add more tags if that's possible, to help searches.
Thanks
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OK fingers crossed all seems to be working. I machined up a replacement PTFE section and now with this in place things are pretty much back to normal. One thing I did found out to my amazement was how much the four main vertical screws for the main print head influence things. On reassembly I tightened them up rather more than normal - ended up not even getting the 3mm/s complete on the extrusion test. :eek:
Although having been very frustrating, its been a great lesson on how each part interacts on the UM. Thanks to everyone for their input.
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OK possibly a long shot but I have been having serious underextrusion issues with my UM2. When stripping down the main head I have discovered how critical the tension is on the four main screws which clamp the main plastic body onto the aluminium section. I found that if these are tight then I get really bad under extrusion.
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OK thanks, that's useful to know
I found once it starts it is hard to stop it. Basically for me the knurled feeder would grind the plastic slightly causing eventual under extrusion. I found I could only print around 35mm/s without issue.
I machined a new ptfe part and that fixed it for me. Then I updated the feeder and it only got faster and better
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Not yet to the new feeder, I wanted to try and work out what the problem was before I changed things as previously everything was working fine with excellent results
I have replaced the bowden tube, the only thing left is the PTFE coupler and nozzle
Filament seems fine, did have some groves but after cleaning feeder that seems to be ok
Will give the 30% a go, currently working between 40 and 50%
Cheers both
Mark
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Yeah I have been considering a new feeder, my only reason for not going down this route at the moment is that the UM2 worked perfectly before so i would like to try and work out why it has since stopped.
I have done a full strip down of the nozzle and run a very extensive clean, so pretty sure that is fine. Just would like to work out why its not performing as before.
Hi Mark,
The first thing you could do is start by replacing the feeder. Many use this one for example and it works really well:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two
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OK im running out of options here. Trying to get to the bottom of an underextrusion issue with my UM2. Previous prints of the same object have completed fine but lately i have been getting under extrusion issues.
Have cleaned the feeder mechanism (original UM2), replaced bowden tube, checked the PTFE section which was sightly distorted so used a 3.2mm drill bit to fix that. I have also cleaned the nozzle, see images below for filament removed from nozzle. Despite this I am from still getting intermittent underextrusion problems. These very from either early on in the print or towards the end.
The printer has seen over 500 hours of use, so wondering despite the nozzle seeming good and the PTFE connection also seeming ok. Is it worth replacing these. The only other option I guess is the motor for the feeder? Initially I thought it might be filament problems but getting varying degress of problems with different filament types and manufacture.
Thought would post for any suggestions before I place an order for a nozzle kit. Although with the shape of the filament removed using the atomic clean method, I think this is doubtful
Any thoughts on what to do next would be appreciated.
Layer height 0.1
Shell/Bottom/Top thickness 2
Fill 20%
Speed 50mm/s (although on UM2 have dropped to 90%)
Temp 215
Filament
Artic White Faberdashery
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i was kind of hoping that there would be a way to select a profile first, I guess the ideal would be to have the section that asks if PLA, ABS etc at the end of material insertion, to have that at the start.
noted on the forum profile cheers, and yes its UM2
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Is it possible to change the default nozzle temperature when selection the insert new material. The reason I ask is that I find when printing with filament that requires a higher setting than 210, more often than not I have problems with the initial purge of material.
What I tend to do is use the insert material option and then select ready on first hearing any retraction on the feeder. I then manually select a higher nozzle temperature and use the Move Material option to get the material flowing.
I guess it would be great to have the ability to set a few filament type profiles?
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out of interest, how critical are those measurements, on re assembly the coupler has approx 4mm on mine. So far not a problem and I have also noticed that the bowden tube remains well seated in the coupler as opposed to previously there was often a small gap.
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I cut off the ends and stripped the wire, was able to get the screw locked although its movement is somewhat limited due to what looks like the green plastic having melted a little. Will see what this is like after a few prints, but at least I know what to look for now. Thanks everyone for the advice.
just wondering if there is a way to alter the title of this post or add some more tags to it. Just in case anyone else has a similar problem and is searching. Assume only site admins can do this?
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I had something simular also here is a pic of mine.. you don't get any error show up the bed just does not heat up if i remmber correctly
yes that's the one. Although mine decided to pack up midway through am 11 hour or so print.
Still I have managed to clean up the connector and re insert the wire. It does seem secure at the moment and the bed is heating up so fingers crossed.
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Hi Mnis
I was looking for a more detailed approach in terms of checking the connectors as wondered if that was the issue rather than the Bed.
Sadly have discovered what the problem is. Seems that the connector terminal on the main board is faulty and as you can see, it looks like its been slowly burning away. Not something I was hoping to find but seems this maybe the cause of my heated bed failure
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Hi
I thought that I had a heated bed failure and this still might be the case
I have run through the various threads on here in terms if checking the connections both at the bed and main board underneath
I even went as far as to check the solder joints - again all looks good
Looking at the cable that goes to the bed, should I be getting a voltage out on the thick brown and blue wires. I am not seeing anything either at bed or board end
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many thanks
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Mold Feature
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
Hi there
Have been experimenting with the mold feature in Cura and wonder if anyone has considered having the ability to save the mold as an STL so it can then be split into two parts and printed, rather than having to create a one off mold each time