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  1. I had a decent amount of luck using AliExpress to source some of the parts, like the lead screw and bearings. Just make sure the seller has a decent feedback rating.
  2. I'm in the US and bought motors from ProtoParadigm and they work very well on my Ultimaker. They are decently strong and have a D-shaped shaft. http://www.protoparadigm.com/products/accessories/nema-17-stepper-motor-flatted-shaft-1/
  3. My local plastics supply didn't carry a 4MM acrylic, so I used birch plywood (5/32 is essentially the same thing as 4mm), which I could buy from a local wood working shop. With some of the wood parts, changing the thickness would change how things fit together, but others I could have easily replaced with 1/8 in acrylic, like the bearing covers on the outside. I was more concerned with getting it all together and working first. As a note, these are the parts I had a pretty hard time sourcing or using substitutes: The Z-axis lead screw and nut (found it online from a sketchy place in china) The bearings for the X an Y axis along the 8mm rod (I'm using 2-pieces for each block, not self-lubricating) The custom cable that runs from the hot-end and temp sensor on the gantry to the control board (soldered wire instead) The electronics board - I found a clone on ebay, but they populated parts that were on the schematic that my actual ultimaker doesn't have installed, and that caused weird problems Motors with long enough wires - soldered extensions and replaced the connectors The fabric cable ducts - the pdf drawings in the Git Hib were raster drawings, so I re-drew them in illustrator - maybe the STEP file is better? no idea The belts on my original ultimaker were mislabeled, so I bought the wrong ones initially (too short) I learned a lot building the machine, and I'm already working on another one, in red. That machine will likely include a heated bed, dual extrusion, closed in left and right sides (like the Ultimaker2), and a custom modified version of the PCB that uses different connectors.
  4. Last night I successfully printed using my custom Ultimaker. My build is composed mostly of self-sourced components available from the open source designs. Many of the parts were sourced using the documents available on the github repository. Some of the drawings and documents available were simply inadequate and I had to recreate them based on a kit-assembled Ultimaker at the school where I work. I have created my own github repository of some of these parts to make doing what I did easier, and I'll post it soon. The frame is made mostly out a cast Acrylic, with some mixed and matched clear and blue. I did, of course, buy some of the parts from Ultimaker, the majority of which were in the dual extrusion kit. I'm estimating that the total cost of the machine was somewhere in the $1400 range after all the materials (I do have lots of extra parts). This printer will live at a newly opened hackerspace at the university where I work. Here's some photos:
  5. I made a custom heated bed out of 3/16" 6061 aluminum to try out printing ABS on my Ultimaker. It worked pretty well. I guess the trick is that I had the Aluminum already (I work for a University) and a plasma cutter to cut out the shape for the bed. Zero problems with warping or flatness, but I cut it out of four-foot square sheet. 6061 aluminum is probably going to be much cheaper than something like MIC6, but there's more than one way to upgrade your machine... :-) I added the Prusa heated bed pcb to the bottom of the plate and ran the heated bed with an external power supply. I removed the setup when I installed the hotend 2.0 upgrade when that came out and haven't really missed it that much. It was nice, but the printer still works very well with PLA and 3M tape. Still using my printed ABS fan-duct I made with it though - the PLA ones kept melting and the fold-up ones kept coming apart.
  6. I have been using 6mm Birch plywood with my laser cutter without problems. Only problem with laser cutting is getting it flat after it warps sitting on the shelf at a store. The flatter the material, the better the laser can stay in focus and cut through the material cleanly. Also look out for knots in the wood - those can be tougher to cut through. I try to pick out my material to avoid them, but sometimes there isn't much choice. I don't know much about beech wood.
  7. I just checked out the GitHub for the Original Ultimaker Plans. Beautiful documentation. Really great to have mechanical drawings and plans for everything. Thanks to the whole Ultimaker team.
  8. One of the guys in the pictures had an Ultimaker T-Shirt on. They should sell those in the shop. I would buy one...
  9. Can you give us any more details/pictures of the new electronics? That looks to be one of the biggest areas of improvement. Is it still running on an ATMega or did you move up to something else (XMEGA? ARM?)
  10. I admit that I posted while I was frustrated and dealing with a jammed hot-end. This seems like a simple dialog box that could be added to Cura. Yes, I know about pronterface, but keeping everything integrated seems much cleaner. Cura didn't used to have a print menu, but those features have been integrated, and for that I am very grateful. Daid has done awesome work.
  11. There really needs to be an easy way to heat up the extruder for maintenance. Waiting on a model to finish slicing right now so it will let me in to the manual control menu. Also, the GUI editor on the forum is annoying. It negates my OS/browser spell check and other features.
  12. Awesome, thanks for the link. All the info on the ultimaker site and reprap.org still point to the drawings on thingiverse.
  13. Ultimachine (USA) has some PVA available in 3mm stock. https://ultimachine.com/catalog/print-materials/pva/pva-3mm
  14. Is it possible to update the open source laser drawings to the Revision 4 design? I have a revision 3 and I would like to cut out some of the changed parts and replace them, an possibly build a second machine.
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