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oatfoundryprinting

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  1. Cool beans! Thanks for your responses everyone! It's giving me some good ideas on how to go about attacking this problem again. One more question, if that isn't asking too much: Since I am shooting to print with a 0.25mm nozzle, do I need to print using thinner filament? Currently I use 3mm (actually about 2.85mm) filaments, and I was wondering if I HAVE to switch to a 1.75mm filament to print reliably with a 0.25mm nozzle? I have heard this change can cause some problems with extrusion, but is it necessary? Additionally, if you switch to a 1.75mm filament setup, do you need to change the extruder drive in the back of the machine? I've heard that the UM1 extruder sometimes has problems moving 1.75mm filament. Anyone confirm or deny this? Many thanks Ultimakers!! Luc
  2. Thanks for the replies. @Gr5: This is what I tried to do. I manage to unscrew it while it was hot, and threaded the 0.25mm nozzle onto the heat block. I then screwed the threaded tube closed, as hard as I dare without breaking it. I was presented with TONS of ooze, big globby messes running down the outside of my heater block and nozzle. Molten plastic was oozing out both the top AND the bottom of the heat block, where the threaded tube meets the block AND where the nozzle sits flat against the bottom of the heat block. @NickFoley: Nick, with a female thread going into the nozzle, did you replace your entire brass threaded tube and just have one longer M6 tube going through the entirety of the heater block, into the nozzle? How did that alteration turn out for you? I didn't know how I was getting so much ooze considering how tight I turned my new setup. Maybe I'll give it another shot. Anyone else run into these problems while replacing it themselves?
  3. Hello Ultimakers! I having been printing on my Ultimaker (V2 Hotend) for roughly 5 months, and I am more than pleased with the results I've been getting. My prints are quicker and I waste less time and material on failed prints than I did in the beginning - it feels good to progress! However, recently I've run into some walls. I have been trying to print REALLY small objects for some customers, to no avail. The stock 0.4mm nozzle that came with the V2 Hotend is just too large to get these kinds of details that I need. In the past, for some small features, I've been able to tell the printer that I was using a 0.25mm head, without ever changing out my 0.4mm nozzle. Surprisingly, this trickery actually resulted in a decent quality print for what I needed, and did not over/underextrude too badly; the surface quality was there. Still, this manipulation of the software is only so good. I'd like to get some smaller nozzles for my machine to tackle these REALLY small projects. My problem is that I have not been able to find 0.25mm nozzles (or anything in that range) that are compatible with my V2 Hotend setup. I ordered a couple nozzles from the UK that said they were compatible with Ultimaker, but the threads were too short for my heat block, and resulted in LOTS of messy leakage. No bueno. So Ultimakers, where do you get your smaller nozzles? I am looking for something around 0.25mm to fit onto a V2 Hotend Setup. Any help is greatly appreciated!! Many thanks, Luc
  4. Daid, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:107413/#files The V4.9 Shroud (last file) is what I was trying to print. And Thank you for clarifying combing - I have noticed it does that on some moves so that the "drag-behind" is in the internals, but it's not consistent.
  5. Daid, You would want to see the gcode the file was sliced into, or the original .stl? Also, what is combing exactly?
  6. Here is another great example of what I am talking about. New Tapir Fan Shroud v4.9 from Thingiverse. The print has LOTS of excess webbing on the inside of the part. http://imgur.com/nnBNMtw
  7. Daid, Thanks for your reply! The "minimal extrusion before retraction" setting is exactly what I looked to to solve this issue. I have the numerical value in this field set to a ridiculously small number, 0.5mm I believe, and yet still I get these massive strings caused by the head deciding to "move" without a retraction. The extruder is not actively pushing filament during these moves, it simply leaks due to the plastic being heated and results in self-ooze. Watching my prints, I have noticed these types of "moves" occur even after a substantial amount of printing has been completed. That is to say, I am positive that more than 0.5mm of fiament has been extruded since the last retraction, and still the machine refuses to retract before certain moves. What's more confusing is that it seems to be inconsistent. I will notice proper retractions before most moves, but a few hiccups still persist and I am left with additional stringing. Additionally, I have tried printing identical objects using 13.07 TestSupport Cura, and this version also has the "minimal extrusion before retraction" setting. At the same setting of 0.5mm, I get cleaner prints using 13.07 TEST than I do 13.10. This makes even less sense to me, as it suggests that the problem does not lie within the "minimal extrusion before retraction" setting. Thoughts? Thanks again for reading.
  8. Hello Ultimakers, I've recently downloaded 13.10 Cura and have been testing out some prints of mine, and I began to notice a drop in quality of my finished prints. The "drop" in quality is not so much to do with the actual layers of the print, so much as it does with the "moves" and retractions of the print. I've noticed that my prints sliced with Cura 13.10 often opt to not make a full retractions when moving across my part. As a result, I am left with large strings being pulled across open areas of my print. This leaves lots of excess material that I must cleanup afterwards, even on the most simple of prints. Now, it's not very hard to do this, but I find it vexing that this new version of Cura seems to have it's own sense of when to retract fully, and when to simply move (even though I have specified retractions in the expert settings). Below is an example of these extra drags across the middle of my parts that I feel should be full retractions. In the upper right of the print, these excess drags can be noticed. http://imgur.com/DX7eiO0 I understand that this is probably done to preserve the filament by reducing retractions, but it's annoying when Cura 13.04 or 13.06.4 result in MUCH better looking prints due to retracting when necessary. Is anyone else noticing this kind of behavior from your machine? Are there extra retractions settings that I can mess with in order to reduce these artifacts? Many thanks for reading!!
  9. I will gladly post my gcode for you here Illuminarti. I've got the saved .gcode file, I just don't know how to attach it here in the forum. Suggestions?
  10. I just checked the layering in Cura, both the 13.06.4 and 13.07 TestSupport2, and I looked for the little vertical blue line indicating retraction. Apparently Daid's 13.07 does not support certain retractions that 13.06.4 does. I checked both programs, and the 13.06.4 does show a retraction before the move - 13.07 does not. I do all pieces with excessive support material in Daid's 13.07 because it makes cleanup a million times more simple, but it seems to not be quite as polished as of yet. This explains my dilemma. I suppose for now I can just deal with cleaning up these excessive stringers. It's just good to know my intuition was correct. Some parts were stringy, but the bad ones were full extrusions in mid air. Thanks for your suggestions gr5! It really helped me figure this out. Luc
  11. Wow guys. Awesome responses! There's some pretty good information in here. @gr5: Yes, Cura retraction was enabled. I've got 40mm/s retraction, 4.5mm distance. @Code Maven: Honestly, those features sound SO useful. I'd love to vary my shell thickness, temp, and fill throughout parts. I've already had a print in which I was wishing for this kind of control. But like you said, Cura is free and works pretty darn well. @Illuminarti: I am going to reprint this pipe and check for more string problems. From gr5's advice, I'm going to drop the temp on that print by 10 degrees and see what happens. I had bumped it up to about 100 mm/s, and I wanted to make sure I wasn't underextruding, so I think I may have gone a bit on the warm end of things at 230C. After I print again around 210-215C, I'll come back here and confirm whether or not the gcode was messing up and drawing lines where it shouldn't have been. Again, thanks so much for reading and your insightful responses guys. It's this kind of support that makes me so glad I purchased an Ultimaker! Regards, Luc
  12. And yes, gr5, I am sure that those long beads 4 inches across the top of my part are done so with no retraction. I can at least identify what retraction stringiness looks like, as well as the sound of the extruder retracting. During those final moments of the pipe print, the print head made no stop before retraction, no extruder noise for the retraction, and the bead was not stringy. It was a complete, and rather well laid (for being printed into the air) line, complete from start to finish. Retraction strings usually trail off.
  13. Hey guys thanks for your response. I've got to be honest, I am woefully ignorant of slicers, to the point where I don't even know what I am using currently. I am using Cura 13.06, and when I need to print pieces with support material, I use Daid's Cura 13.07 SupportTest2. Before last week, I had no idea options of different slicers were available. I have simply been loading my .stl files into Cura, letting it render, and printing from there. I haven't really noticed any problems before this last print, but it could also be that I am becoming more in tune with the process and noticing more. I know this doesn't give you guys much to work with, but I'm totally ready to learn with a bit of guidance. How can I check what my slicer is? Does it have anything to do with the Marlin firmware that I recently installed? How can I install other slicers to try them out in conjunction with the Cura software, or is Cura my slicer? As always, thanks for reading. I appreciate the help and support of this community! Luc
  14. Hello Ultimakers! My name is Luc, a brand new user, both to the Ultimaker and these forums. Recently, I've been reading a lot of forum posts in which people are talking about different slicing engines for varying applications. Apparently, some are better than others at certain things, and as a clueless noob, I was hoping to create a post in which a large amount of this kind of information can be compiled. I haven't seen a post like this yet; I've just been catching hints and glimpses at what people are talking about individually. Usually though, I have no idea what they are talking about. So Ultimakers, can you explain different slicing engines to me like I'm 5? I have taken an interest in this topic recently when I noticed a part that I was printing started taking VERY strange paths to complete the print. Basically, the part was finishing up and had only a few tall spots to complete, so it was jumping all over the place to finish these last few posts. However, the order in which it was trying to complete this part seemed chaotic. In fact, sometimes, the part would move from one post to another, and not even try to retract. I was left with long, full beads of material strung between opposite sides of the part. Pics 2 and 3 in this album really highlight this problem. http://imgur.com/a/YSKay#DLzVzPH Now, these were fairly easy to clean, but I can't help but wonder what the heck was going on with the gcode. I have a 7 second layer timing built into the programming. Is it possible that the gcode is trying to stay within this parameter by jumping all over the place, seemingly out of order of what the most efficient print would be? Additionally, the 4th picture in this album shows another problem with the 7 second layer timing parameter. Once the part was trying to finish up the very last layer of the top of the flange, it slowed down to a snails crawl, in order to keep the "7 second rule," and basically way over extruded. Does anyone else out there play around with this layer timing? What can be done to prevent this last second globbing caused by over extrusion? Thanks for reading. I know this was a lot at once, but you guys have been so awesome so far.
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