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Everything posted by bauermaker

  1. Hi everyone After a very long tim i finally had the time and energy to finish a more complicated project. Meet God-Zilla - the famous Wrestler. Its printed in 15 parts in colorfabb glowFill (i absolutely love this material) and painted using games workshop and tamiya colors. I really like how the paintjob affects the glow effect.
  2. hi i made this with a rock tumbler http://bauermaker.tumblr.com/post/101928651812/bronzefill-after-rock-tumbler and this with only the dremel http://bauermaker.tumblr.com/post/91984082552/my-latest-work i put some aluminium screws inside my tumbler. but they re quite big so i want to try something else in the future. i also got very pleasing results just with sanding and polishing by hand, but have no pictures.
  3. Since i am swamped with worked right now, I didnt have much time to do my usual sanding and priming so i gave Acetone Vapor smoothing a try. It took away too much detail but still the smoothnes is amazing, and it only takes 15 minutes. Getting the ABS to print smoothly was a bit more difficult but after a few failed attempts i found the perfect settings. 0.4 Nozzle No Fan 250 first layer, 230 for the rest 70 degrees for the heated bed 30mms 115 % flow printed in a very small room (Speiseklammer) without airflow using ABS Deluxe (less warping and consistent diameter)
  4. I second everything braddock says and I would go so far as to demand from colorfabb to release a cheaper alternative :wink: For me this is a huge gamechanger, finally being able to print high quality looking items without the need of alot of post processing.
  5. Finished it, only postprocessing with the dremel, no sandiong, no steel wool, no polish, more info here http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5922-filling-and-sanding-prints/&do=findComment&comment=59606
  6. yeah, its insane, if you print with 0.06 mm there are no visible print lines, and for me it prints more reliably and is way better to post process than woodfill.
  7. @braddock: awesome, what size is it and what layer height did you use ? i assume the red tint comes from your special antique patina, could you maybe post a link ... thx I printed the eagle mascot for tonights WorldCup final. Layer height 0.1, polished with steel wool and the dremel, then i painted on some green rust. i didnt use any sandpaper or paint thinner on the model, so its a little rougher.
  8. @Nicolinux i did start a thread a month ago, i just posted an update describing my wet sanding process, Most of it was learned from reading posts from OlivierC and other artists in this thread (starting from page 23 i think) and i can still remember what a revelation it was to learn about wet sanding Edit: this is the thread i was talking about http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5922-filling-and-sanding-prints/&do=findComment&comment=58515
  9. @Didier I really like our video , is this for the Colorfabb timelapse challenge ?
  10. Thanks, I use Genius Pro Spritzfüller, an exclusive brand of the local "baumax" hardware store. I tried to find it online but had no luck. In my opinin the filler is not so important, i tried several other brands and settled on this because its the cheapest, the most important thing is to have enough patience for countless hours of wet sanding . awesome paintjob on Grinner by the way.
  11. Thanks. unfortunately the primer only helps against the print lines and small flow problems, to get rid of the polygons (which i could have avoided with an additional level of subdivision in blender...) i had to sand them away. for that i started with 240 grit sandpaper working my way up to 600 reapplying filler after each step to check for flaws.
  12. This is what i have been working on during the past week, its a new model for Ultimakers WorldCup Mascots. The "Red Devil"or "Diable Rouge" was missed by many belgian fans.
  13. hi LeoDDC the model and the paintjob look awesome i am looking forward to what you will come up with next
  14. I finally came around to print and finish a larger amount of the worldcup mascots i designed. They were printed in Fabherdashery Glow in the Dark Filament. Layer height 0.1mm, Nozzle diameter 0.8mm, Shell thickness 0.8mm, no infill resulting in less than 80 minutes print time per model I put them up for sale at a store in my hometown (Graz, Austria) and my goal is to sell at least one www.raumdruck.at, for anybody in the area They all print without support !
  15. Lennart, i am glad that you like the pug so much Andwew you are fu**ing insane in a very good way , respect.
  16. Thanks Lennart I dont feel good about uploading the whole model since it wont print properly in one piece and i dont have time to write an assembly guide now, but i uploaded a derivate i did for a friend of mine. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/pug-container hope you like it b
  17. "Sometimes I lack inspiration, anybody knows a good source for inspiration? " love the egg holders, i get most of my inspiration when i am outside in the woods walking around this was my biggest print so far, printed in two parts simultaneously on two UM1s. it stands 50cm tall (base 10cm, pug 30cm, crown 10cm) The paintjob was kind of unintentional (the color was dried and my airbrush died, long story) buit i like how it turned out in the light
  18. Hi Everyone I want to share this model i made with and for my 4 year old nephew. We designed it together during a drawing session where he tells me what he wants me to draw and so this special Rhino came into existence It is printed in fabherdashery phosphorescent PLA. The files are available for download on youmagine if you want to print your own. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/airrhino have fun and happy easter b
  19. Hi Alex_3d Welcome to the comunity, that is a very nice paintjob you did there. Tips on how to increase you print quality can be found all over the forum, but just to sum it up: its impoirtant to keep ypur printer well calibrated, keep the belts tight and the axis aligned. don"t print too fast and use the right temperature for your material/speed. There are also plenty of modifications available (dual fan, heated bed, new pulleys, direct drive, nozzle diameter...) I am using a 0.8 mm nozzle for example, that really increased the printing speed without any notivable loss in quality (excep
  20. i wanted to post something more organic in contrast to all the great mechanical prints just to show that the UM1 is still a very awesome machine colorfabb XT / 0.08 mm Layers / no Support / printed the shoes seperately and glued them on / shoes were scanned using a primesense and skanect / 15 cm high / only light sanding / a lot of primer and tamiya spraypaint
  21. It was printed in PLA so it wouldnt work afaik. But my plan is to print the exact same model in ABS and then try the vapor treatment to have a comparison. A few weeks ago i bought a heated bed on ebay, and the first testprints with ABS have been promising. Only the smell of the ABS and the fumes of the Acetone are a little bit off putting.
  22. thanks, the truck was my biggest comercial project so far. it was a bit easier to sand because i split the model in several parts so i could get everywhere. This figure i made for my portfolio and it was printed in one part so some areas were really difficult to reach, if i should print it a second time i would print the tongue extra to make it more convenient.
  23. hi made this a while ago but only came around finishing and photographing it recently. its printed on an U1 in Orbitech 90 Pla, 0.6 layer height. Used a lot of filler spray and had to sand it for ages. painted with tamiya spraypaint.
  24. Hi gr5 I used normal filler spray for cars, tamiya putty (thx to OliverC), moltofill (its a wood filler, i think thats similar to Bondo) and superglue with activator spray to glue it all together. The green metallic color is original car finish mixed to match a specified color, the black is normal Spraypaint used for architectural model making.
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