bauermaker
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Posts posted by bauermaker
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hi
i made this with a rock tumbler
http://bauermaker.tumblr.com/post/101928651812/bronzefill-after-rock-tumbler
and this with only the dremel
http://bauermaker.tumblr.com/post/91984082552/my-latest-work
i put some aluminium screws inside my tumbler. but they re quite big so i want to try something else in the future.
i also got very pleasing results just with sanding and polishing by hand, but have no pictures.
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Since i am swamped with worked right now, I didnt have much time to do my usual sanding and priming so i gave Acetone Vapor smoothing a try.
It took away too much detail but still the smoothnes is amazing, and it only takes 15 minutes.
Getting the ABS to print smoothly was a bit more difficult but after a few failed attempts i found the perfect settings.
0.4 Nozzle
No Fan
250 first layer, 230 for the rest
70 degrees for the heated bed
30mms
115 % flow
printed in a very small room (Speiseklammer) without airflow using ABS Deluxe (less warping and consistent diameter)
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just another note on Bronze-fill, it most definitely smooths easier than regular PLA, even with just some steel wool buffing, the print lines are not visible at all, so, it may be a better material to use if you're planning to create molds of your parts.
If colorfabb produce an iron base version, you should get these same properties, but at a reduced cost, as iron powder is less expensive.
I second everything braddock says and I would go so far as to demand from colorfabb to release a cheaper alternative :wink:
For me this is a huge gamechanger, finally being able to print high quality looking items without the need of alot of post processing.
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i forgot to mention that allthough using the dremel works best on the bronzefill its still not without its risks.
with the mentioned tip i used the lowest speed settings and still had to take care not to put too much pressure on it.
the plastic still melts very quickly.
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Hi Nico
this is the exact one is used, but i am planning to get all of them to be more flexible, i also thought about using a "Drahtbürste" sinsce they also come in different metals.
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Hi
I had some time to play arounf with the bronzefill material and have to say that i love it.
at first, i had some problems tog et rid of the underextrusion but since i fixed it i had a blast.
It prints like woodfill, so you dont really see any printlines.
this was done with 0.06mm, 215 temp, 45 speed and 105 flow on my new UM2
to get this finish i used my dremel and a metal polishing attachment. after a few minutes i hat this finish.
http://www.dremeleurope.com/at/de/ocs/category/6033/reinigen---polieren
right now i am really pleased because this technique gives me the possibility to get a very nice and special fnish without the usual hours of sanding and filling....
i will experiment some more and keep you üposted
b
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Finished it, only postprocessing with the dremel, no sandiong, no steel wool, no polish, more info here
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Nice prints! those bronze fill really puts a unique look to it... not very printy at all!
yeah, its insane, if you print with 0.06 mm there are no visible print lines, and for me it prints more reliably and is way better to post process than woodfill.
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@braddock: thanks for the info
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@braddock: awesome, what size is it and what layer height did you use ? i assume the red tint comes from your special antique patina, could you maybe post a link ... thx
I printed the eagle mascot for tonights WorldCup final.
Layer height 0.1, polished with steel wool and the dremel, then i painted on some green rust.
i didnt use any sandpaper or paint thinner on the model, so its a little rougher.
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@drayson Bier sehr gerne, wo bist du denn normalerweis eunterwegs
@Nicolinux I tried some pastes (Polierpasten) but wasnt able to get good results. or to be more exact, i didnt notice much difference after using the paste.
One exception was woodfill, because it doesnt react to good to sanding (turns white) so i used the red paste from dremel to get the brownisch finsih back
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Great work Bauermake!!
Btw: where are you from? Noticed an .at ebay link from you...
Hi
Lustigerweise bin ich auch aus Graz
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@skint patience is a virtue
normally i am a very impatient man, and the sanding process is always killing me because of how long it takes.
the pug models took me weeks to complete because i always got sick of sanding after a few hours ...
but the results and the reactions on this forum keep me motivated
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I finally got my bronze today and after some underextrusion problems (easily fixed by increasing the flow) i managed to get my first 3.5 hours print.
Printed with 0.06mm layer height, it came out nearly perfect.
I am still trying to understand the best way to sand and polish it.
tried different polishing porducts and even used Nitro thinner to get a smooth surfce (worked very well but left white discolorization.)
i am not a 100 percent satisfied with the current result and will continue my experiments, but wanted to share something anyway
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thanks, i mostly do it when i should be doing much more boring work or during breaks from sitting in front of the computer.
also watching bad television series where you dont have to look at the screen helps a lot
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i did start a thread a month ago, i just posted an update describing my wet sanding process,
Most of it was learned from reading posts from OlivierC and other artists in this thread (starting from page 23 i think) and i can still remember what a revelation it was to learn about wet sanding
Edit: this is the thread i was talking about
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Long time no write...
I didnt finish the boba fett but focused on the belgian red devil instead.
I will repost the photos here and will go into a little bit more detail on the wet sanding process (Nicolinux asked about it and i remembered about this thread
I use standard sandpaper that i can find in the local hardware store, its black and the labels say its for metals and plastics. I think it starts at grit 40 and goes up to 600
for higher grit (1000, 2000) i had to go to stores specialized in modelmaking and rc controlled planes.
I usually cut or rip of small pieces and dip them in a bowl of water. then i start with low numbers (180 or 240) and work my way up to 600 or 1000.
It can take a long time to get a perfekt finish.
on the pug model, i spent at ;east 10 - 15 hours, most of it on the head (too many folds) and the belly (there were too many polygons still visible) and on making the parting lines go away (the model was printed in 3 parts)
This is the pug right out of the printer, the head was in the first stage of sanding
at this stage i realized that i needed a lot of putty to get rid of the polygons on the belly, i even considered reprinting
this was after glueing all the parts together
The paint job is a different story i might tell in a future update, it involves bad airbrush paint from the states, acetone and a failing airbrush ...
... but i actually really like the way the paint turned out
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@Didier
I really like our video
, is this for the Colorfabb timelapse challenge ? -
@Bauermaker: excellent design and print mate. The finish is unreall. As Tommyph1208 already said you wouldn't think it was a print. What primer did you use?
Thanks, I use Genius Pro Spritzfüller, an exclusive brand of the local "baumax" hardware store.
I tried to find it online but had no luck.
In my opinin the filler is not so important, i tried several other brands and settled on this because its the cheapest, the most important thing is to have enough patience for countless hours of wet sanding
.awesome paintjob on Grinner by the way.
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@Bauermaker Wow thats great. The primer covered those polygons really nicely. How mush rework before painting?
Thanks. unfortunately the primer only helps against the print lines and small flow problems, to get rid of the polygons (which i could have avoided with an additional level of subdivision in blender...) i had to sand them away.
for that i started with 240 grit sandpaper working my way up to 600 reapplying filler after each step to check for flaws.
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This is what i have been working on during the past week, its a new model for Ultimakers WorldCup Mascots.
The "Red Devil"or "Diable Rouge" was missed by many belgian fans.
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hi LeoDDC
the model and the paintjob look awesome
i am looking forward to what you will come up with next
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I finally came around to print and finish a larger amount of the worldcup mascots i designed.
They were printed in Fabherdashery Glow in the Dark Filament.
Layer height 0.1mm, Nozzle diameter 0.8mm, Shell thickness 0.8mm, no infill resulting in less than 80 minutes print time per model
I put them up for sale at a store in my hometown (Graz, Austria) and my goal is to sell at least one
www.raumdruck.at, for anybody in the area
They all print without support !
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So, this is my active project.
I modeled Bobas head ages ago and finally finished the body (i used a different model as a base mesh)
I printed it in one piece and so far only sprayprimed it twice. Currently i am sanding and manually filling.
Its approx 12cm high and will also feature his rifle and the jetpack-
I will regularly update the work in progress and write about it.
When i am finished i will post the model on youmagine (there are still a few errors in the stl that i will have to fix ...)
thats it for now
b
Post your latest print!
in What have you made
Posted
Hi everyone
After a very long tim i finally had the time and energy to finish a more complicated project.
Meet God-Zilla - the famous Wrestler.
Its printed in 15 parts in colorfabb glowFill (i absolutely love this material) and painted using games workshop and tamiya colors.
I really like how the paintjob affects the glow effect.