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Everything posted by bauermaker

  1. i have to second what illuminarti says, switching to the newest cura solved a bunch of problems for me, some ofthem (the z axis blob) looked pretty similar to your problems. good luck
  2. hi Ian i really like the idea behind this post and what you are doing for the forum in general I didnt make a completely new design for Christmas but was asked to print a model i did a few months ago for a few friends of mine to give their little nephews (one in Munich, the other oen in St. Pölten) so here i present to you the "Glow in the Dark T Rex Finger Puppet" the mouth, head and legs are moveable and it stands ca. 7 cm tall. merry christmas b
  3. hi there i used to print a lot with laywood (from orbi-tech, on an U1) but stopped because i was geting more and more clogs. then i got a drill and made myself a 0.8 nozzle, but unfortunately it still got clogged :( right now i am a little bit frustrated and haven't done anymore testing, but i assume it might have something todo with print speed and temperature. good luck, having a 0.8 nozzle is awesome anyways, as it really speeds up bigger prints
  4. hi i just recently finished a job using only PLA 90 because it doesnt warp and is very easy and convenient to sand. good luck
  5. I absolutely agree to everything gr5 said, but for less warping and easier sanding you could try laybrick or Orbitech Pla90 those two materials have worked wonderfully for me.
  6. Hi gr5 I used normal filler spray for cars, tamiya putty (thx to OliverC), moltofill (its a wood filler, i think thats similar to Bondo) and superglue with activator spray to glue it all together. The green metallic color is original car finish mixed to match a specified color, the black is normal Spraypaint used for architectural model making.
  7. hi i made this (the cab, not the whole Truck) for a client, a lot of sanding and filling involved, all printed in Orbitech 90 PLA
  8. hi i think they all come from the same source, i ordered mine from orbitech. i found my error, it was aparently a mixture of my own stupidity (i dried the PLA in the oven to make it less flexible, please dont ask me why) am partially clogged nozzle (because of the overdried PLA) and trouble with my bowden tube. I fixed all of these mistakes and used new und undried PLA (it took me roughly 3 hours to figure all this out, cleaned my nozzle 3 times) and now i am printing again with up to 80 mms and a temperature of 205 and i looks gorgeous i will post the results soon
  9. Laywood is a pain in the ass and i am still not sure how it really works :-P . I dont know how many times i cleaned my nozzle for this figure (i guess 2 or 3 times, at least i got faster with it but broke one nozzle in the process). i originally i also wanted to print the arms in laywood but switched to normal PLA because of all the problems. The settings that used to work were a speed between 35 and 40 mm/s and a temperature of 200 max. I dont know where the problems came from but i have a project next week that needs to be printed in laywood, so one way or the other i will be forced to f
  10. thx, yes the body is laywood the underpants are orbitech PLA90 and the forearms/hands are made from the rests of my very first PLA that came with my ultimaker kit (not the orage one, thats from faberdashery) so its like a best of PLA model (its missing some colofab of course
  11. Hi This is my first post in this forum. I got ultimaker 7 months ago and have been happily printing ever since. This is one mof my more recent projects, a monky action figure that is posable ecause of magentic joints. http://31.media.tumblr.com/a5f2fdc607525a74587b174c32143e96/tumblr_mrz8hvvPrI1s5t020o2_1280.jpg If you are intersted in the other stuff i printed, feel free to visit my tuimblr greetings form austria b
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