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thirdsurface

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Everything posted by thirdsurface

  1. So I rebuilt my extruder mount over the past few days and once I reassembled it all to give it a test my extrusion motor no longer worked. I switched the e-motor plug with the z-axis motor plug and this fixed the extrusion but left the z-axis inoperable. I then switched the plugs back but switched the stepper drivers between the two motors and this left the z-axis working but no extrusion. This tells me that the problem is on the electronics board. Does anyone have any idea what could have happened or what I could do about it? One idea I had was to use the optional 2nd extruder motor port
  2. Thanks for the tip, I thought of the same thing during my last print, because 70 degrees is also apparently no good either. I did have the foresight to print a massive brim on the object, and I ended up taping the entire thing down with Kapton. haha whatever works. I'll try lowering the temp again on my next try.
  3. I have tried a couple prints with the bridge, printing at the standard 3.0 diameter and .4 nozzle. It extrudes fine, but I can't get it to stick after about 5 layers. Always starts to pull up in the same corner but I know the bed is level I'm using a heated bed at 100 and hairspray; I also tried on garolite with Elmers, but no luck. What else can I try?
  4. I ordered the 0603 model thin film surface mounted from Digikey, they sell individually for $2.22. Thanks for the links alnavasa and gr5, Digikey was the quickest and cheapest option ($10.00 for two sensors and priority shipping). I'll let you know how this turns out. Here is the direct product link if anyone happens to need one in the future. http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/PTS060301B100RP100/PTS0603100CT-ND/1666189
  5. I was unable to get a reading on my busted temp sensor, so I am going to buy a replacement PT100 thin film such as this: http://www.omega.com/pptst/TFD_RTD.html ...when I find one that isn't $50 and won't take a month to arrive, unless there is a better option learn from my ways
  6. SOLVED. Had the same issue tuning the PID settings. Then I tuned the BANG_MAX down to 125 and BOOM Problem Solved Thank you for getting me there
  7. So in the process of trying to reconnect the leads to the pt100 I've managed to mistakenly remove it from the board entirely. I still have it, but I try to measure the resistance across it and am still getting an infinite resistance reading. This leads me to believe that I've torn up some crucial component of it and the circuit is no longer complete. Does this basically boil down to me needing to purchase another temperature sensor or does anyone have any ideas on how I could try one more home fix for this? I looked around for any technical information on the pt100 but couldn't find anythi
  8. Looking closer I can see that the white piece on the right (for the white wire) has copper on each side, and the side at the top of the picture has a piece of tracing that appears to lead under the black connector. hmm Does this mean that I now need to somehow reattach the white piece to the board, and then solder a wire to the contacts on each end? I am in need of some clarification of whats going on at this particular junction, and maybe a workaround if there's more soldering within that square millimeter; unfortunately I do not have micron sized hands and tools. I seem to have bad luck
  9. Thanks for the photo tip! I got the two heating wires soldered, don't judge from the mess in the picture, I'll get it cleaned up! I was running late for work so I just held a wire to connect the leftmost wire to the contact further to the left. I powered it up and got a 0 degree reading. Removing that connection results in a bed temp error. Am I doing this right by soldering that leftmost one? The connection second from the left seems fine, and the heating wires don't look pretty, but they are definitely not touching I could not find a diagram and want to make sure I'm not totally wrong b
  10. Also, what is the function of the white wire on the far side of the connector? I noticed that the board contact is positioned away from the others.
  11. Thanks for the tip; unfortunately I have had the pleasure of soldering a couple things on my U1, not my favorite thing in the world but I have everything I need. The original issue was the heated bed reading hot when it was actually at room temperature. I was hoping it was a loose wire but I could not be sure due to the ensuing chaos. I'm hoping all will be well after I fix the connections, but is there another possible issue regarding the temperature misreading that I may need to solve?
  12. The temperature increases were always at least 30 degrees over. I will be working on it today, update incoming
  13. I was trying to tighten a wire to fix a temperature read error on the Ultimaker 2 buildplate and successfully ripped all the connections to the relay loose. Can I solder all these connections back? What do I need to keep in mind in order to fix this? Picture Below http://imgur.com/4ZZkMV6
  14. Thank you all for the help. I thought I would mess around with the settings on the Ulticontroller first and had no luck. I tried every combination for decreasing the PID levels and the inverses as well, but the result was the same every time (btw what is the PID-C = 1 setting?). Every increase in temperature resulted in an almost exactly doubled amount before it would slow down and return to the desired level, regardless of how small the increase. I finally got frustrated and hooked it up to a 12v power supply and the problem VANISHED, although it would not have been enough to run the ste
  15. I have not, just found the thread, thank you. The issue in that thread was not resolved but Daid said on 12/19/13 that new U1 firmware would be coming with the next Cura update, which should fix the PID bugs. Has there been a firmware update since then?
  16. I have been reading through some of the Ultimaker 1 temperature issues, but I haven't seen mine yet. I've been using my Ultimaker since August and have been able to figure out every issue until now. My hotend was on its last legs, so I went ahead and installed an E3D hotend. I hooked everything back up (I also have a heated bed) but I have not been able to figure out why the hotend temperature will SKYROCKET past the input temperature: ie, I enter 60, it shoots up to 130; I enter 160, it gets up to 230 Then it realizes it is way too hot and the temperature decreases, and finally reaches t
  17. Does anyone know the length of the hotend isolator tube? Mine broke after two weeks and I want to make my own; the only dimension I can't seem to find is the total length of the tube. Also, will it make any difference if I use steel instead of brass? thanks
  18. I am assembling my Ultimaker and have everything completed except for the missing Bowden Tube. I want to try a test print but I don't want to risk any feeding issues. Does the Bowden Tube work functionally as a guiding tool, or is it more to keep the wires and material out of the way?
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