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Posts posted by uit

  1. so, I'm glad now, that I was babysitting the printer...


    suddenly (i assume) there was a Z=0-movement - I've hit the power switch a millisecond before my glass plate was shredded.

    I've printed this model maybe 50 times (this specific gcode maybe 10 times), with no issues other than the Heater Error (which is why I changed to TinkerGnome's Firmware for the PID-Settings [alternative Fan-Shrouds] )

    regarding the ribbon cable placement see this photo


    I can NOT recommend to seperate these 2 ribbon-cables to fix the issue of unpredictable movements on TinkerGnome's Firmware V16.08.02

    Maybe @tinkergnome could set up an experimental branch of his FW with the old SD-Library for testing, because this was the suspicious part in other threads than this one?



    • Like 1
  2. I've cut the shrinking tube and the mesh cover (carefully with scissors), seperated the cables so that they are running in parallel (not on top of each other; 'bout 2cm apart from each other) and fixated them on the bottom plate with gaffa.

    printer is running, so i can not take a photo at the moment.

    ...and to the bad news unfortunately:

    I'm in an 17hour print, and 5 minutes ago I had a single random travel to X0 again (print continues, but surface isn't perfect anymore and again I lost trust and I'm babysitting the rest of the print-time)


    • Like 1
  3. I ran into the same issues when installing tinkergnome's firmware V16.08.2


    unexpected and unpredictable moves in X, Y and even small Z-hops.

    I also had a "Remove Material" triggered randomly while printing a model.

    So I rearranged the 2 ribbon cables from them mainboard to the SDcardReader and OLED that there is some distance between the cables.

    Problems solved, printed many hours without any issues!


  4. Can you use spiralize and make the shell thickness really thick?


    you can not use the Spiralize-Function (in expert settings/black magic), because Cura is slicing it for a single perimeter und tries to extrude a 5mm thick outer wall with one single line (which is continously moving in z+), so it wants to extrude way too much material and you will get immediate clicks. best shell thickness i get by spiralizing is 0.8mm at a layer height of 0.1mm

    so mnis' way to go would be to turn off spiralizing and go for 5mm wall thickness (better aim for 4.8 or 5.2 as its a multiple of your nozzle size and your material flow stays at 100%) at 0% infill.



  5. this week i tried to print in old PLA. it was my first batch of generic PLA, about 18 month old. I stored it dark and in airtight plastic bags with silica inside. over this time period its diameter from ~3mm to >3.10mm. it's quite brittle and i have to print a few degrees hotter than "fresh" PLA, around 225-230° sometimes even up to 240° depending on the model and detailing.

    it tends to carbonize much faster when the flow of material is stuck and when the diameter is going quite over 3mm it gets delicate with the original bowden tube.

    I use this old PLA mainly for spiralizing vases which is quite ok if you get the parameters in the right window.



    Spirit, thanks for your input on this thread,


    looks like you were able to deal with your issue by applying this workaround.

    regarding the feet I already printed spacers and levelled the chassis to my table, so that it is at least standing an all of its feet and is not wobbling and moving around, but it had next to no effect to my bed-levelling-issues.


    your second part of the fix, which involves the spacer is actually the same approach as the washer/nut-combination under my left-rear-side, which made this trouble corner less unusable. but i cannot get my rear-right corner to the right level. the tolerances are too high, so that the levelling-screws are to short to compensate. furthermore the bed seems to be under tension, and I don't think this tension mixes up very nice with the hot/cold cycles and the mechanical movement of the bed.



    it is what it is - a messy workaround.



    Nearly a year ago, i ordered an UM2 because I don't want to mess around with basic calibration and tweaking on an Ultimaker Original. I wanted a well calibrated, "plug and play"-type of printer as promoted.


    The first Support Ticket I openend on this specific Issue was December 16th 2013.

    between this date and today there was a lot of Support-Ticketing, documenting, narrowing down the issues to the bent chassis, assuring I get a new Printer, some hotfixes from my side and even a repair by ultimaker which made this specific issue worse.


    All I wanted was to print architectural models, which have a base size of 20x16 cm to 20x20cm which has driven my decision to an UM2. Since 9 months I'm trying and failing, including 2 superclogged nozzles related to the bedlevelling, days of wasted time, effort and money.


  7. a short status update on my side:


    I made a "workaround" by putting a nut under the heated bed, pressing the heated bed with the glass-plate a little bit up on my lowest corner.

    you can see this on the second photo of my last post ()

    so i can increase my printable area a little bit. problem is that there is a thermal coupling now via the nuts, so the bed takes a little bit longer to warm up and energy is wasted, and it's no final solution at all.


    sadly I'm still not able to use the whole building plate. so no large prints for me.


    I have an open support ticket (#UHK-927-78261) regarding this issue, but I have not heard from support since July 17th


  8. @gr5


    thank you for your time to reply


    the box seemed to be okay, maybe a subtile smell of elephants, but next to no surface scratches.

    inside the box, everything was in place.

    first thing i noticed when assembling was that the included filament guide wasn't fitting into its suposed hole, cause the backplate seems too thick. (but that would be very suspicious)


    my the chassis of my machine is definitely warped, it's sitting on 3 feet as you can see here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6050-um2-housing/&do=findComment&comment=60758


    the initial layer thickness was 0.3mm at this print (layer height 0.1mm)

    I made another print with an initial layer thickness of 0.1mm. which you can see in this photo (collage for more detail - highres )


    I used the distribution of error method on this print - it is the best I can get


    so my next option is twisting the frame or glass which i will skip for the moment.


    finally I tried a similar method to your paper warping idea, which is a nut right under the heated bed, to raise it a small amount. I hope you can imagine it with this photo (the smaller screws are from the left backside clamp)



    I did several loops of the bed-levelling-wizard, and I noticed a very slight change to the better (at least for the back left corner). Further trials tomorrow.


  9. thanks for your replies,



    adjusting on the fly would be kinda hectic because you have to adjust the level back an forth everytime the head moves to one of the "trouble regions" ;)

    and furthermore there are no relevant levelling screws for the level of these 2 corners



    @Didier Klein

    yes, something is way out of plane

    the glass-plate is flat (definitely)

    could be the L-shaped part which attaches the buildplate to the Z-rods

    could be a bent x-axis

    could be a bent chassis


    i can only see 3 relevant screws which are accessable without taking the frame apart...


    I#m aware of the levelling bugs, I tried the whole procedure in Cura 14.03 and 14.07, this issue is definitely Hardware-related.


    maybe I should try Chapter C3 (stabilize z-stage) from the assembly manual, but I#m not very motivated and talented doing that :(




    thanks for the link, I will try this method in the evening, but I'm sceptic if it helps me in any way

    In fact i can print a perfect concentric circle

    but only in the middle of the bed and with a max diameter of ca. 6-7 cm, then I'm hitting my problem corners...


  10. I am trying to level my bed. and I'm constantly failing to the point where I lose interest...


    I ran about 20 levelling cycles with varying every variable which i think has influence the correct levelling (glass plate orientation, heated/cool bed, heated/cool nozzle).


    the 3 points of the levelling wizard are levelled near to perfection by using 80g/mm²-paper.

    But no the rest, i have 2 troubling regions, where on one the nozzle is touching the glass and on the other the distance nozzle-glass is too far for the filament to stick


    I hope you can understand what I mean by looking at this print.

    model: Bed leveling test by imitation




    you can view this photo in higher resolution here

    as well as detailled photos of the corners

    left upper

    right upper

    left lower

    right lower


    of course this issue leads to unprintable regions and limits the maximum printable size and amount of objects.

    problem region left upper - filament is not sticking to bed

    problem region right upper - feeder clicks - too much resistance pushing the filament out (good chances of clogging)

    any idea?

    is there a way to fix this Issue myself?


    • Like 1
  11. I was going to say the same thing. Just cut the power completely (pull the plug on the back of the UM). And move the head by hand. Often, even with power on, the power to the servos that more the head are off. Typically after a minute or two of no usage the servos are turned off.

    Another poster (mark hale in posting above) said the problem was in the print head so I would start there. You can also unscrew the 4 screws if you want but you might not have to.

    As far as the bottom - yes - it's simple - just remove all the screws under there - on the larger panel. The smaller panel only houses the display. The larger cover is where the cables connect into. See if there is one that is loose. But don't plug it into anything if there are 2 places it can go - ask back on this list with a photo if something is wrong. I have a photo of the bottom of the UM somewhere... Here it is:



    Uit, I don't know about the other questions (still waiting for my UM2) but for 1a you can just turn off the printer and move the head by hand.

    However nancy, another UM2 user disassembled the head and posted a photo of it here:



    Thanks, nicolinux and gr5


    i found the problem with my fans:

    the ground cable on the plug (inside the mesh-cover) was loose.


    Unfortunately i overlooked it the first time, so i also looked on the electronics board.

    Fortunately i saw that the heater connections on the board was also very loose and was already waiting to fail. all of the cables are under a bit of tension, i would sleep a lot better if the cabling would have done with a little more reserve...


    I also disassembled the head (in search for the connectors in the beginning), at first i was frightened to be able to assemble it back again, but it is really not that big kind of issue


    printing quality now got a big jump forward with the fans ;)


  12. May I ask you on how to proceed solving my fan-connection-problem?


    1) Should I go for the connections on the head-side first?

    1a)The heads home position is not very ideal for maintenance, what is the best way to position it, so i can access it a little better?

    1b) Are there any caveats i should be aware of before "disassembling" the head?

    1c) is the cable for the 2 side fans plugged or soldered directly at the heads end?


    2) How do i remove the bottom cover (for accessing the board to check the plugs)? just unscrew some or all of the screws from the cover underneath the heated bed?


    ...so many questions and so eager printing through the weekend ;)


  13. i ran into the same issue as mark i think - my fans (the 2 on the sides) are not running

    this was my first print with the default settings, printed directly from sdcard


    if the actual print finishes, i will take a look at the fan connections

    transportation via DHL was a really rough ride for my UM2, it looked kinda messy when i openend the box, and i'm missing screws :(


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